belfastguzzi

Yes, I see your problem. Try folding it up. Then you will find that the bike will lean over. New brake levers and indicator lens will cost about £60 - £70.

Looks like it's from year of manufacture. I can't see any reference to motorcycle emissions testing though. So maybe bike emissions aren't tested? Strange. The limit for cars since 1992 is 0.3 & 0.5% CO, which is much lower than I expected, as I've been used to 3.5 /4.5% for older vehicles. If bikes are tested, presumably the V.11 CO would need to be down to 0.3 – 0.5% too. > Carbon monoxide (CO) 0.5% at idle Carbon monoxide (CO) 0.3% at fast idle

Yes, I imagine that it may be only at idle. Plugs are ok after a decent run. But in relation to the 'MOT' test, which every vehicle has to do annualy, the CO is measured at idle. The bleed screws are probably the easy answer, if only for the period of the test. As db found that his were way off, it looks like this should be the first thing to try. Question for UK people – I had been thinking that I wouldn't have to do the MOT until late 2006 as I bought the bike new in 2003, but is the first test date actually related to the year of manufacture? As it's a 2002 bike, it would then have to be tested next year. I suppose I better check this in the 'proper place', but what about you Baldini, for example. When do you reckon you have to get probed and prodded?

Here's the pic, though no part numbers. The story about a shaft being 1mm too long still sounds fishy. I would still suspect that they may be confusing it with the 'boss'. Have you looked through all the stuff in the FAQ here?

I checked the Scura with a gas analyser and the CO is over 10% at idle. This must be miles too rich – it would certainly never pass an MOT like this. I've just set-up the car's Weber carb and it runs perfectly, but I have never worked on any EFI stuff. Should I check / adjust the TPS as a first step? Can you confirm that 10% is far too rich for the Guzzi FI? Presumably it does not necessarily mean that it is running rich throughout the range, above idle?

There was a link here somewhere to a post on Wildguzzi and somewhere in or around it there was mention of one of the MG 'sports' or 'race' ECUs – sorry the detail is so sketchy, but what I remember is that when they used test equipment on the ECU, it gave exactly the same results as the 'standard' unit. Their conclusion was that there was no difference between the 'race' unit (to go with sports pipes) and the standard one. So, you never know – the V.11 Ti kit ECU may just be the same as the one that was in the bike in the first place ? As a matter of interest, what about swapping your ECUs over to see if there is a noticable difference?

don't you mean beautiful enough?

Some of the stuff in this thread seems a bit garbled (the dealers don't seem to have a clear picture of what is a fairly simple selector mechanism), but also perhaps a bit familiar. The 'dogbone': is that the pawl arm that has received much coverage here? The 'shaft' that is 1mm too long in some uk bikes: that sounds like the oversized boss (diameter 1 – 1.5mm too wide) that has, again had lots of comment here – and it's not just uk bikes. The repair kit is presumably the new pawl arm / with correct size boss and a new spring? If, in fact, there is another part in the box / selector mechanism that is the wrong size, please be sure to report back the details. Thanks.

You could have a Japanese copy. Check to see if there is a badge somewhere that says 'Ibanez'.

Yes indeed, though it's too early for me to know if the dates will work or not.

Hmmm.. there's one based in Engerland, and look what they've got – a Mutation Engine! I thought Cap'n Enzo Nemo had the patent on that. "The core of the BitArts wireline technology called the Mutation Engine..." (www.bitarts.com)

1 Scotland so much choice, but Skye / Arran would be great 2 Ulster 3 Lake District 4 Yorkshire Dales 5 Wicklow, Kerry (not strictly UK)

I definitely would do it, and carry the few parts needed just in case, but I'm reckoning that the problem is solved. I would recommend that anyone with an unmodified bike in the questionable period should check the spring/arm parts as a precaution. Steve should see all the info posted in FAQ. Once again, the 'Roadside Repair' pics are on this webpage.

1 – It's a great price, so buy it. 2 – Maintenance is easy. It's too soon to know if the clutch is a generic problem. Some have been disasters, most are still running fine. Buy it...and fix if it breaks. 3 – Yes, easy enough. I have no local dealer/servicing/parts stock. Get servicing/repair parts mail order. Buy it and maintain it at home.

I think that it is difficult to say, from the pictures and the description of what happened, that this is absolutely, definitely a clutch problem. There is clearly catastrophic high-speed destruction. While it might have been the clutch breaking apart, could this not have also been initiated by some other mechanical failure/losseness/break around the flywheel/starter/clutch areas? Though it is a fair point that the engine can rev to high speeds in any gear and therefore at slower road speeds, I think that very high revs are not going to be sustained in low gears at low road speeds. I do think that riding at 220 Kph implies different circumstances than those when reaching high revs and changing up through the gears. 220 is fast – and the motor is hammering hard. Any small failure in the belhousing has a big chance of causing huge destruction under that condition. Of course even at 220 kph this should not happen in a properly constructed and maintained motor, but I don't want to jump to a fearful conclusion (about my bike) on the (very dramatic) evidence so far. (I wish I lived closer to some of the other riders here as I would consider a motor stripdown to examine the 'problem areas', out of interest. While I would do it alone if I have to after suffering a catastrophe, it would be better for a few people to get together and pool their knowledge, experience and ideas. A UK Scura rally at someone's garage next year?) – EDIT – I have just read Roberto's last past: maybe we should go and peer through his windows when he gets to work on his motor this winter, though I would still like to see an original (unrepaired) assembly.

CONGRATULATIONS! How did you get them? Are they the ones that you had ordered ages ago? Do you know if new stock has been released?

KB, have you been able to see alignment marks on the Scura flywheel?

At the beginning of the year, one of UK's biggest MG suppliers told me that the Ti kit is just not available (and it won't be).

How come you lot can still get those MG Ti kits? Has there been a big stockpile of them in the USA that is still being accessed???

Hmmm, maybe not much sense, as the switch works (if my bad memory serves me) when the 'actuator' drops into a depression and pressure is taken off it, for neutral (like a courtesy light car door switch). Therefore removing a washer to push the switch further in would make it more likely for the light to stay off. If a washer was inserted to move the switch out, then it might be more effective – or the light might stay on permanently.

That's what I was going to suggest and then you can start to narrow down where the fault is. Also just check that connector anyway in case it as simple as a disconnection or bad connection there.

With that many parts flying in formation together you are referring to a helicopter of course! Yes, I was actually! Wondering if the 'break-in' is regarded as just the time that the rings/bore take to settle in, with no further procedure to bother about (apart from oil stuff). Of course I dare say that aircraft parts are machined with a different degree of precision than Guzzi parts.

Maybe so. I actually drilled the hole at the top, near the bulb, hoping to encourage condensation out (not the side to duplicate the speedo). Perhaps a drain hole at the bottom as well may do the trick.

That's what I've been wondering. Maybe someone here knows?

Sounds like that gets the rings sorted, but what about the rest of the 1,235,986 parts?