belfastguzzi

I've got around that problem now. Fitted tiny, tucked in, micro indicators. Nobody will see me indicating, but at least I'll not break the things again.

I believe that the oversize boss causing spring to become coilbound in use would cause the spring to break. Yes, must be. Certainly not to do with how it is installed. I have just received a new spring and 'ratchet arm' in the post*. Sure enough, the boss on this one is markedly smaller than the original one fitted. It is 15mm. Maybe at the weekend I will whip off the selector plate and see how the repaired parts are doing – and maybe put the new bits in. * I claimed the new parts under warranty, but as I got no response from the dealer to my e-mails and fax I thought they weren't coming – so I ordered and bought a new spring from elsewhere in England. Now I've gone from one broken spring to having 3 new springs. One is to be returned to John O'Sullivan though: cheers John.

After the investigations, the bigger spring coil seemed to be the way for Guzzi to go. I called at a spring manufacturer today to see if they would either sell me a length of spring steel or form a new spring for me. Unfortunately they only made giant leaf springs for lorries, so no luck there. If Guzzi are now saying that this is where the problem lies, then hopefully those who have sorted the spring/boss relationship will be ok in the future..... ...or was it Sweep who said he did this and the spring still broke again? PS Docc so what you're saying is, you're still a god it's the bike that's the dog?

YES I really do want to visit Norway. Was in Sweden a couple of weeks ago It was extremely clean extremely comfortable cobbled streets almost no cars one cruiser motorbike and millions and millions of bicycles - everywhere, yes, millions of them. But that was the soft south I believe that the wild men are all up north. ______________ I photographed an old (German) speedometer that was in a shop window. It was the size of a saucepan. Fantastic. Every Guzzi should have one of those.

I saw an AGV helmet yesterday with a plain matt black finish. I fancied one to go with the flat black of the Scura. Trying various helmets, the AGV fit was very good for me too. They do a ML size, not just a M and a L. The matt/flat black was the wrong size for me unfortunately. Seems it is also end-of line: apparently there are new models now and no plain, flat black. I would have liked that helmet.

Bill, how's your hearing? Did they say god, or dog? What's a TY? Did you try to send a message and couldn't ? I'll have to investigate. Another week – commiserations. At least you've got a dealer though. I have just come home, dead tired, splitting headache, stopped the bike and I'm sure I kicked my foot out and I thought I put the sidestand down but you've guessed it... I got off the bike and... there was no sidestand and over she went. Now I've got to try glueing all the little bits of indicator back together again, 'cos there's no shop to buy a new one from.

Have you any idea when it will be looked at, Bill? Definitely get them to measure the diameter of that boss for the spring coil and let us know. Edit: *another thought – can you get them to measure the inside diameter of the coil too? > Has EVERY year of bike been affected by this spring break problem? *-> Another thought – could there be a variation in the diameter of the spring coils? This would be worth checking as a smaller, tighter coil on 15mm boss will give the same binding problem as 'normal' coil on big boss. There could be more variations, e.g. with boss size: if there was one period of bad production when 16+mm bosses were made, couldn't there have been others? It would be useful to build up data on the size variations of these parts. It may sound obsessive, but this really is a serious problem as it potentailly means that a bike becomes disabled every 600 or 1,200 or 1,500 miles and creates a mood of uncertainty when contemplating traveling away from home. Until we have definitive sizes for these items, I think I'll take the view that the boss is better smaller than bigger and there's no harm in making it smaller, to give some peace of mind.

mmm.. can't wait til mine breaks again so that I can try this * * Thanks for the note about the adjuster, Docc. I've been wishing that I had looked closer at it when the cover was off. Going by what you say, I'll leave it alone, as, so far, the thing is changing ok.

Re Martin's comments – Tools: yeah, that's the problem about roadside repair, I don't usually carry those particular tools (as illustrated) with me. Baldini – I cut into the 'shift plate' partly because of the short spring, but I thought it would be a better shape anyway: and I still want it to work with a normal spring. Although the spring is harder than the plate and so cuts into it, by doing that, it does create rough, jagged edges. It seems better to start with a good shape that both locates the spring and lets it slide smoothly, rather than make the spring wear its channel through a chisel point. The objective is to spread the load on the spring bend instead of stress being on a very small point of the bent spring section. However I can't give any measure of how important this is. It must have some importance as this is the exact point where the spring breaks. Are springs heat treated after forming? I wondered about that and of course, if needed, it could be done as part of the repair. I don't think so. I would say they are just bent up. *It would be good if someone who knows could tell us.* I don't think that this repair will pull out, but it might break again. As well as reshaping the plate, I reshaped the whole spring slightly so that it would sit in a better position and the hook would keep in a good position. Put a pin in plate? Do you mean that that the spring would then have a hook or eyelet bent into the end to locate around the pin? It's worth thinking about, next time the bits are out again. However, if that's what you mean, the spring would still need a sharp bend in it. The current factory design should be fine. It does look like the oversize boss was the main problem as it did stop full spring movement and caused an abnormal pull on the bend when down shifting. There's not much in it, it's only a small movement. **Do we know if springs are breaking on 15mm bosses anyway?** It would be easier to thrash these things out and come up with ideas and solutions if it was possible to get together. As we can't, the internet/forum is a fantastic second best. If this had happened and I hadn't seen the info on here, I wouldn't have had a clue about what had gone wrong. [stupidly, I didn't measure the dimensions of my repaired spring. A new, normal spring is in the post from John O'S in Cork.]

The gearbox pre-selector arm spring broke at 1,200 miles. After disassembling, I measured the boss that spring coil locates on. Sure enough, it was over 16mm. Baldini reckons it should be 15mm. I confirm that the coil does bind on the oversize boss. The spring hook bend pulls against a sharp edge. This makes a rough gouge. The two stresses probably both contribute to the spring's early demise. I re-profiled this edge where the spring bend seats, to make it a better, more positive, less stressed fit for the spring hook. Now the spring:– I bent the broken end to make a new hook and slightly reshaped the rest of the spring. . The ratchet boss was filed down to just under 15mm and offset so it is shorter to the rear. (I forgot to photograph this.) The spring coil now moves freely on this. More pictures on here. When disassembling, the box was still in gear: when it was apart I worked out that it was fourth. I don't think that the gear number has any significance to the break happening. Neutral was then selected by sliding the forks. For re-assembly, toothed wheels were set in neutral position and the cover then fitted easily back on to gearbox. On a short test run, the spring has worked fine – gear change works. Changing could possibly be improved by re-setting the adjustment screw (given the different size & tension of my repaired spring). Has anyone used this adjustment screw to good effect? Could a spring change be done at the roadside? I think it could but you would need to have the right tools and of course lack of tools is a likely problem. Better to check this out and make modifications before a break happens. Update on roadside repair: see website page here

Second Superbike Race Michael Rutter 201.1 MPH

Old threads never die – they only unravel... Listening to the radio as I apply electrodes to the Scura – Rutter clocked at 199.2 miles per hour on the public road circuit oh: why has my white keyboard got grubby oil stains on it??

Unusually, it is warm, the sun is shining. Since early morning I have heard the sound of bikes heading up the road. I took the dog out and there was a regular stream of bikes passing on their way to the north coast. The biggest road race day of the year with 100,000 visiters come to see the 200. For me, it's V.11 operating time instead. Time to dust off the crowbar. I think I'll have to make that Scura suffer.

I think it's safe to say that my changes were not as smooth as they used to be, so maybe you're right, there are signs before the spring goes. I see Martin B is reporting more difficult changes, so we'll see... Obviously I hope it's just big boots in his case. I plan to open the gearbox tomorrow – it will be interesting to measure that pawl boss diameter.

Any of the second-hand American kits that I have enquired about have not been the right one for the Scura. Pity, as they have been good prices. (I don't know about these e-bay ones, haven't seen them.) Also there is either an unwillingness to dispatch to a destination outside of USA, or else it just costs too much. Otherwise, the response here seems to be that they are unavailable and may not be made anymore. TLM said they could supply, but in a vague, general, hopeful sort of way. They did not confirm anything definite. If no-one else can get them from Italy, I don't see how TLM could.

yep, it's definitely that, no question, bound to be ...is that what you want to hear?

Haa, depends whether the 1956 wheeled thing was a motorbike or a pram. If it was a pram, then you're in good company.

...ahem, the one gear idea was inspired by the broken spring situation. Not so much a wish, more like evolution, in Guzzi World.

Will any dealer help with warranty issues – even if you didn't get the bike there? I'm looking through the posts to see your various instructions & part numbers. J.O'S has just offered to send a spring – fantastic. If this problem is restricted to a particular age group of bikes, it surely must be a parts batch problem? It will be most interesting to see what the diameter of the boss is. Measurements from other bikes that haven't had the problem would be good to get (somehow).

Well, I was thinking of going to see the final race day of North West 200 on Saturday, but instead I think I'll be opening the gearbox. I'll see if dealer (OYB) can supply parts under warranty and send them over. But are they in stock? If pawl boss is oversize I'll probably try grinding it down. What a disappointment – now I'll be listening out for that dodgy clutch! At least I hadn't put new oil in . I've been trying to get out for gearbox oil and do the first change.

Now mine has broken – I presume. Only 1200 miles on the bike. Before purchase the 'new improved spring' was fitted. :!: When riding home at tea time this evening I rolled on from almost standstill to cross ongoing traffic on a dual carriageway. The pedal felt wrong but wouldn't go down any more so I assumed it was in first. It wasn't. It was just stuck. Engine stalled and back wheel locked and slid. Not funny in traffic. Now what? I'll have to order parts (spring/pawl) from England. Wonder how long it will take? Ferry is booked for Midlands meet in June. ...assuming that's what the problem is.

I suppose we'll all now be listening out for any increase/change of noise from the gearbox direction on these bikes, but if there is a definite problem with the clutch, surely there would be more horror stories by now? I recently passed the 1,000 mile mark. No problems with idle or stopping in traffic. Do you have tighter emissions controls in Denmark and tighter valve/rocker settings as a result? This does seem to be a regular complaint with the American set-up, which is cured by going to the more 'normal' wider gaps or even wider Raceco settings. It would be a good starting point anyway.

seems to be popular right enough.

Maybe it's heaven!

Right, I had the impression that there is a spec. that has a more constricted or baffled through-flow. So maybe a new crossover does have to be on the wish-list then. I did do a search – only found the posts from Gthyni & Jaap saying they couldn't find it either. I did see this from Janusz: 'Just by reading famous Guzziology I could not figure out if our bikes have crossover internals hollow or, like Jackal and Stone contain an extra muffler or even God forbid muffler AND catalytic converter like late Swiss models. Does anybody feel like taking the crossover out and tell us? You will be able to see straight through the crossover if there is no muffler inside. If the inlet immediately curves into the crossover without a direct path to the same side muffler, the crossover is also a muffler. If thats the case any hollow crossover will help a lot, even if it's not Stucci. '