belfastguzzi

What do you Welshy guys and gals know about this? Do you know what the route of this mainland TT was? I hope to tootle around Snowdonia/Brecon Beacons in June. As there is an old TT circuit there somewhere, this seems as good a routepoint as any to include in the itinerary. I'll have to see where Eppynt Mountain is on the map, but any ideas about a definite road(s) location would be great. Some time you'll have to come over here to the old Ulster TT & UGP / Grand Prix of Europe circuits. Here's a link to Ulster TT story - see Tracing the TT. It's from a four wheel perspective though. Rudge Ulster Just found this. Local Irish boy (champion, Stanley Woods) astride guess what V8, 1956

I thought I better do the proper thing and actually go look in the tank. It was a bit dark, so I struck a match to provide some light.... er no... I looked in the filler – and my previous description was not exactly correct. The left side has a hole flush with the surface, through which can be seen the brass connector for the 'tube'. The right side has a raised 'turret' where the tube terminates. This fits your description: that the left side is the drain and the right side is the vent. Dear, dear, certain readers of this forum with a more robust approach must be giggling, or crying, at these posts that are obsessed with the minute details of Guzzi petrol tanks –– as they pour another can of Fosters into their fuel tank and guzzle another pint of best premium unleaded down their throat.

Thanks Al and all. This reassures that I was probably experiencing fuel starvation, although the warning light had not yet come on. As a matter of interest, my handbook (v11 Le Mans / Sport) gives the tank capacity as 23L (5.06 imp. gall, 6.07US gall) with 5L reserve. The MG brochure for the Scura gives the capacity as 22L. It's negligible, only a litre difference, but it's interesting that MG does not have a consistent spec. for this. My light also comes on around 110 to 120 miles. This is the same as my 600 Ducati that had a smaller tank. I know the Guzzi has a bigger engine, but I had imagined it would have a bigger range than this. I haven't tried to work out a miles per gallon figure yet.

Glad you mentioned this as it is another part of the stupid question that I was too afraid to ask. I assumed the two tubes in the tank are vents and or drains. One has a rubber tube attached where it exits the bottom of the tank, which indicates that it fuctions as an overflow drain. After removing my tank, I wasn't sure which side had the tube attached to it: right or left outlet/inlet. I think the left. Where the tubes attach to the steel ring inside the tank filler, one side (left) has a brass insert in it, one doesn't. Is this standard? Does one side function as an overflow and the other as a vent? The content of the posts above seem to say this is the case. I would be glad if someone can confirm which is which. 2002 model

I'm very interested in your post, due to an experience last week. I was too afraid to post a stupid beginner's question about it (and I imagined it has probably been discussed lots before). I set off on a 20 mile trip to deliver documents by a deadline. After getting onto the motorway, the bike started spluttering and hesitating. It wanted to stop but I just kept the throttle open hoping that forward momentum would continue. I was afraid that if I stopped to investigate, it wouldn't start again. It felt like fuel starvation, but the fuel warning light was not on. However it did start to glow after about another 10 miles. I got the documents delivered and headed to a petrol station. The bike seemed to be ok after that. I was wondering about the accuracy of the fuel light? I was also wondering where exactly the sender is located in the tank? From what you say, it sounds like the usefulness of the light could be messed up by the useless trapped fuel in the right side? When the bike was cutting out and dieing it was on a long straight. It could be that when I got to corners that enough petrol was then redistributed to keep me going for another 15 miles. This is a 2002 bike.

ok, as you asked: "Midnight cowboy stained in black reads dark roads without a map To free-seeking electricity (repeat) (Repeat both lines) Lighthouse beacon straight ahead straight ahead across black seas to bring Seeking electricity High voltage man kisses night to bring the light to those who need to hide their shadow-deed hide their shadow-deed (repeat) Seek electricity........... " If you're still in the dark, more 'enlightenment' here To get there more efficiently, feed this map into your ECU... "Witness the man who raves at the wall Making the shape of his questions to Heaven. Whether the sun will fall in the evening Will he remember the lesson of giving? Set the controls for the heart of the sun. The heart of the sun, the heart of the sun. " Best of luck with the controls, send us a postcard when you get there.

That's a great tour. I like the look of the Alaska one too!

Yes, seems completely barking, especially on a bike where you have to go sequentially through the box. It's easier to see this technique using a car box where you can move from 5th to second in one move. But with the bike it's too easy to coast along, disengaged, then find the wrong gear, or a false neutral, just when you need to pull away – – he said with feeling, after dropping the bike at a junction doing 0mph yesterday One bent brake lever later – I think it's a sign: the bike's telling me not to use the brakes. There's probably no answer to this question for those of us under 6', but has anyone got a technique for righting the bike when it has gone past the point of balance and you're standing with one foot on the ground and desperately trying to heave it up again by the handlebars?

What would you like to know? How many people are from which part of the world, or who is from which part of the world? Both lists are difficult... I am wondering WHO is where. But if it is not easy to do a list and if people do not give enough information anyway, then don't think anymore about it. I am interested to know where other Guzzi riders are in Ireland, Wales, Scotland, England. I have never seen another Moto Guzzi on the road here. The only time I remember seeing one, was about 20 years ago in Scotland. I was camping at Ben Nevis campsite when a fantastic sound came up the glen. It was a red guess what. It made a big impression. Anyway, hopefully I will get to the V11 thing in England in June.

Never mind pictures of the Guzzi beast, I want to see pictures of that Kubelwagen beast. How did you manage to get that? You must bring it to the V11 rally. Strap the Guzzi on the bonnet. I went see a VW Trekker once, but just couldn't afford to buy it. I wish I had. example picture pinched off the web. Although it was a softie Mini-Moke type compared to the Kubelwagen, the steel body was as thick as... a very thick steel thing. Oh dear, as I'm posting in the Intro thread now, I'd better say my introductions. Hello. My name is David I'm always called DB, which is quite similar to KB and I see from his introduction that he is 47 years old, which is quite similar to my age, as I'm 47. Once upon a time I went to art college, so of course I have never had 'a proper job'. So of course I have never had money for a new bike (I once bought a brand new CZ125! Obviously that doesn't count) and so never thought I would ever have that beautiful green V11 Sport that I saw when it first came out. However... I never thought I would have a Ducati Monster either, but I got a second hand baby (600) one, then a while ago saw a V11 Guzzi advertised for £1,100, then started looking around and... ended up selling the baby Monster and buying a brand new daddy monster 2002 Ohlins V11. It's fab. Hey Jaap – once people have signed up, would it be possible to post a list of folks according to what part of the world they are in?

soap, water and Oil of Ulay: though if you post a pic. of which body parts you are talking about, more specific advice could be offered

hmmm perhaps I exaggerated a little.

Same thing here. I did mine at 570 miles a couple of weeks ago and was very surprised at the grooves already worn in the rockers. Having worked on bikes and cars with much bigger mileages, I wasn't expecting this. But let's not worry. Yet.

I had been wondering if there's a dealer in Dublin that you had got it from. I have been in Ljubliana: Slovenia looked like a fantastic country to tour in. From a distance anyway, the mountains and forests looked beautiful. I think I'll try to get a couple of days before or after the V11UK weekend to ride around the Welsh mountains.

This sounds like the rubber bush that others recently posted about. SoCal Nick, would you mind reporting what mileage yours disintegrated at?

From post in other thread> After a little run this afternoon – so far, so good. The 'instant gasket' over the top of joint is keeping the oil in and looks to be holding up ok. The various comments about a slipped/broken gasket on assembly seem to make sense from what I have seen.

As a matter of interest, where and when did you buy your v.11? How did it (and you) cope with the big tour, apart from the spring problem?

Seems like the same problem I posted about earlier. I have put instant gasket on the outside to see if it will seal the leak. I then smeared black sealer over the blue stuff. I suspect that the gasket could have been damaged on assembly at the factory. I noticed that bits of gasket were sticking out of the joint at the engine mount area, where the leak seems to be. I've also encountered the flaking black wrinkly now. The leaked oil seems to have got into or under the black finish and it peeled off around the leak.

It's probably just a misleading translation in the manual. I guess there are no "wire mesh" filters. But on the subject of manual instructions, what is it talking about when it says to look for a 'notch' in the flywheel when setting the pistons to T.D.C.? I couldn't see what that would be, on the 2002 flywheel, when doing the tappets. [i think it's a notch: I don't have the manual in front of me.]

Just to clarify, Emry: did you smear the silicone over the top of the joint (not between the joint faces)? I see the posts are all re. 2002 bikes so far.

There is oil seeping from the right side of the timing chest down the front of my engine. It runs along the sump and blows back onto the exhaust. Baldini previously told me that this is a common place for leaks. I have just done a service and I tightened what allen screws I could get at. It hasn't made any difference. After even a few miles there is oil over the engine and a pool of lovely, clean, fresh oil under the bike when parked. The proper fix is probably to take the case off and reseal it. I'm not about to do that just now, so I'm wondering if it might be possible to make a temporary seal over the join? It doesn't really seem feasible that a good seal could be made, but it's worth a try. It will probably be a bit difficult to get a clean, dry surface on the black wrinkle stuff. Has anyone tried this? What sort of (non-permanent) sealant might work?

No, the light doesn't make any difference. This happens with the light off.

It seems a bit mad to me that a mechanic won't drop the sump to clean it out at an early service, more so because it is so easy. I have just done mine for the 600 mile service. Although I had drained the oil a couple of times, there was a significant amount of emulsion in the pan, which I would rather clean out than leave in to be recirculated. There were also black 'bits', possibly paint. I was disappointed with the mesh oil strainer. The Manual describes it as a wire mesh but in fact it is a flimsy plastic. The plastic cage base diameter is 'too big' for the groove in the sump pan. It has to be squashed in, with the result that it very easily pops out again. If it pops out then it isn't going to work too well. There also isn't exactly a perfect seal between the strainer top hole and the oil tube that goes into it. The plastic base on my strainer was quite out of shape, making me think that perhaps it had not all been seated in the groove properly. That's one reason to check the strainer at the first service. The strainer has to be positioned in the correct realtion to the oil tube that fits into it when the sump is offered up. Because there is no means of correctly orientating the circular strainer in its seat, beyond a best guess position, it can easily be popped out of its seat by the offset tube when the sump is lifted up into position. Something else I saw was that the bottom of the oil tube was broken. It looks like there should be 4 castellations on the end. Mine had 3 and a jagged edge. I presume that this damage was done at the factory. But imagine if that broken bit of aluminium ended up in the sump. For these reasons it seems better to me to take the sump off and check all this. Seems to be another example of why doing your own servicing is the most satisfactory, reassuring option. **Did older bikes have metal and wire mesh strainers and if so, are they more robust, a better fit and still available?

Imagine sliding too far back off the seat!

I asked exactly the same thing when I joined here at the end of last year. It seems to be very common. You'll find more discussion about it here Lake Como Fog Thoroughly drying it out made no difference. It must be a ventilation problem, but I'm still surprised that drilling the plastic and not the metal clock body fixes it. I haven't tried anything yet. If you fix it by drilling the plastic I would love to hear back from you.