belfastguzzi

I'd just say that it would have been useful to run the engine before applying the sealant. Yes, you would have had to clean it all over again if oil came out. Did you check the timing case screw holes for leaking oil and also the tightness of the screws themselves? As the previous owner applied stuff to the joint, it's a good bet that's where the leak is though. Good luck!

I got mine mail order from England. Corsa Italiana probably. Maybe they are not made / stocked anymore as V11 isn't a current model?

Absolutely. I took the stock plastic stuff off the back of my V.11, but I'm still left with the monster number plate. I'm just so envious of you guys who have much neater plates.

Just incase you get an itch: 2010 Race Dates March Sat 13th - Closed to Club - Mid-Antrim Club March Sat 20th - Clubmans - Bishopscourt - Killinchy / MCRRCI April Fri 2nd - ISB - Bishopscourt - Killinchy / MCRRCI April Sat 3rd - ISB - Bishopscourt - Killinchy / MCRRCI April Mon 5th - ISB - Kirkistown - B&D April Sun I1th - Clubmans - Mondello April Sat17th - Clubmans - Bishopscourt - Temple April Fri 23rd - Road Races Practice - Cookstown 100 April Sat 24th - Road Races Irish Championship - Cookstown 100 April Fri 30th - Road Race Practice - Tandragee 100 May Sat 1st - Road Race Irish Championship - Tandragee 100 May Mon 3rd - Clubmans – Bishopscourt May Sat 8th ISB - Anglesey - Natwich & Cheshire May Sun 9th ISB - Anglesey - Natwich & Cheshire May Tue 11th - International North West 200 Road Races Practice May Thur 13th - International North West 200 Road Races Practice May Sat 15th - International North West 200 Road Races May Sat 22nd - ISB/Endurance - Mondello May Sun 23rd - ISB/Endurance - Mondello June Sat 5th - B&D - Clubmans - Kirkistown June Sun 13th - ISB - Mid-Antrim (TBC) June Fri 18th - Road Races Practice - Bush June Sat 19th - Road Races Irish Championship - Bush June Sat 26th - Road Race Practice - Athea June Sun 27th - Road Races Irish Championship - Athea July Fri 2nd - Road Races Practice - Skerries July Sat 3rd - Road Races Irish Championship - Skerries July Sun 4th - Clubmans - Mondello July Sat 10th - Road Race Practice - Walderstown July Sun 11th - Road Races Irish Championship - Walderstown July Tues 13th - ISB - Kirkistown - Killinchy/MCRRCI July Sat 17th - Road Race Practice - Kells July Sun 18th - International Road Races/Irish Championship - Kells July Sat 24th - Road Race Practice - Faugheen July Sun 25th - Road Races Irish Championship - Faugheen July Fri 30th - Road Race Practice - Mid Antrim 150 July Sat 31st - Road Races Irish Championship - Mid Antrim 150 August Fri 6th - Road Race Practice - Armoy August Sat 7th - Road Races Irish Championship - Armoy August Sat 7th - ISB - Mondello August Sun 8th - ISB - Mondello August Wed 11th - Road Race Practice - Dundrod 150/UGP August Thur 12th - Dundrod 150 Road Races Non Championship / UGP Practice August Sat 14th - International Road Race - UGP August Sat 21st - Clubmans - Bishopscourt - Killinchy/MCRRCI August Sat 28th - Road Race - Cork - (Practice) August Sun 29th - Road Race - Irish Championship Sept Sat 4th - ISB - Kirkistown - B&D Sept Sat 11th - Road Race Practice - Killalane Sept Sun 12th - Road Races Irish Championship - Killalane Sept Sun 19th - Clubmans - Mondello Sept Sat 25th - Clubmans - Bishopscourt - Killinchy/MCRRCI October Sat 2nd – ISB - Mondello October Sun 3rd – ISB - Mondello October Fri 15th - ISB - Bishopscourt - Hillsborough October Sat 16th - ISB - Bishopscourt - Hillsborough dates are "provisional" and subject to change

Mine didn't have a significant crash. Plus, I tried not to alarm by repeating that it was very unlikely to be cracked. Not knowing the history, it is however a possibility, so when he's at the point of cleaning the joint and inspecting the area is it not helpful to be aware of what to look for? Just as the tightness of the fastenings should be checked as well. That is unlikely to be the cause, but it doesn't hurt anything or anybody to spend half a minute checking. Makes sense to me.

Yeah. Silver lining in every cloud.

Sorry Ratchet, but it really is impossible to understand you and the approach that you take, in denigrating people. As I have said, the simple repair that I did also served precisely in the way that you define, i.e. "it actually worked the first time (and ever since)" So by your definition, my suggestion was just as good as yours or any other. As for the blue sealant, if you bothered to read, I said here as I said before that the blue (which shows clearly in a photo) was covered by black – when it becomes pretty much invisible (so doesn't show in a photograph). No I'm not a pro. Nor are the vast majority of people who bother to participate in Forums. As far as I can see, the pros tend not to contribute, with the well-known exceptions. Like most others, I'm only trying to show what has worked for me (and might work for others) and also what hasn't worked. Most of us appreciate people giving their thoughts and their experience: partly because we need solutions and partly because we don't have a local source of help to go to. Few of us claim that that what we are presenting is PERFECT, or the only PROPER way to do anything. Our efforts may offend your professional sensibilities, but we don't need to always be told that we're wrong, stupid, inept and ugly.

Found some more: And it looks like it's not just a couple of us here who have experienced the Ohlins as prone to leaking:

I'll get back on that (or others might have the numbers to hand – Paul? Ratchet?) Meanwhile, I found this info. People have used Suzuki seals. Of course there are other generic seals. The dilemma with Ohlins is the way that they are looser/lower friction (more for racing bias I suppose) – so they leak easier. My last set only lasted 2,500 miles. (And once one side goes, I find the other side goes as well within a short time.) We have surmised here before that it seems to be after the bike has been stored for a while, so the seals have dried? The bikes that don't fail are probably being used regularly so the seals are always working and kept wet. Fork Oil: Fork Seals:

Dimitris, Ohlins modified that seal to have a double lip, which is meant to last longer. A couple of us found that it didn't last any longer, but others have had no bother. Anyway, I'd think that it is worth trying to source a double-lip seal. Can you not get the Ohlins part? Are you using Ohlins oil? There should be a thread or two here on dismantling the Ohlins R&T fork tube and changing the seal.

Interesting. You modified it to look like a VB 11 Max King kinda thing?

Hey Skeeve here's one to test yer bonce try visualising one of those dinky wee tail tidy jobbies with one of our regulation sized number plates attached. Got it????

Yikes, what's the definition of 'a proper repair'? A repair that is carried out by P.Roper? A repair that restores the bike to the exact condition in which it was 'properly' delivered from the factory? A repair that is 'properly' carried out by an authorised service centre? A repair that only uses oem parts from the factory and not alternatives? A repair that exactly follows the illustrated procedures and specifications supplied by the manufacturer (by manufacturer, we mean, here, Moto Guzzi) I can tell you all about those 'proper' repairs and show you the photographs. And tell you the results. I only wish that I could have been 'authorised' to do them 'properly' myself under warranty. Oh, by the way, here's Moto Guzzi's 'proper' procedure for repairing a new engine that has had the 'proper' factory parts disintegrate to shrapnel and grind through the system:– 1) Take one wrecked bike 2) Drain the oil 3) Don't do an internal inspection 4) Fill with fresh oil to flush 5) Drain 6) Fill again. (Have the 'proper' service agent refill with a completely different spec of oil than is specified for use) 7) Be grateful and delighted No: don't try that at home folks. It just wouldn't be proper.

Too amusing Gene. Your hilarious banter is giving me belly ache

I assumed that he assumed it was rubbery cos it looked like it might be, sort of. I assumed otherwise. 1) Don't sniff it. 2) Not for internal consumption.

Another possible fix is to tighten the timing case bolts. They might be loose. Now that would be an easy one!

What year is it? 2002 by any chance? A bad year for V.11s Part of the benefit of cleaning it back to shiny metal is that you'll see where it is leaking. If it is not obvious once you've cleaned it, start the engine... and observe. If there is no crack and it's just the gasket/joint leak, you might even see some torn gasket sticking out. The best answer is to put a new gasket in, but in my view there is nothing to lose by trying the sealant fix and if you find that it works – great! You're back on the road immediately. If it doesn't, you've done no harm and you can go ahead and order the gasket etc. I don't know what the commonly available brands are in USA. Hylomar? Loctite does black. Permatex? It'll say stuff like, stays flexible, oil resistant/oil contact, high temperature: but it doesn't need to be anything really specialist. Here's a Loctite one: Loctite 5910 Premium Silicone Black Gasket Maker/Sealer 80ml forms a flexible silicon seal and is suitable for use on valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, transmission pans. FEATURES & BENEFITS For flanges with permanent oil contact Can be used for metal, plastic and painted parts Low odour Non-corrosive Meets performance specs of OE silicone gaskets Temperature resistance: -55°C to 250°C intermittent Rub it well into the area and build up a bit of thickness. Don't leave it too thin. You could put a thin-ish layer on, let it dry/firm up a bit; then put some more on. You can get a smooth finish by wetting your finger. If it's not good, just take it off and do it again. Let it cure before running the engine.

It still looks like poorly applied epoxy to me – partly from the look of it and partly from the way that it has split along the joint line. Silicone sealant DOES work. It's quick and easy. Which is a good thing.

Another thread for reference: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ealant&st=0 Also http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...ealant&st=0 There will be more around the place. Here's the external repair that does work. It's in blue Hylomar instant gasket type stuff, to show where it is. I then covered it in black silicone and once it is rubbed in and a bit of dust and dirt covers it, you wouldn't see it if you didn't know it was there. Best just to use black sealant from the start.

On cleaning: use a knife, paint scraper etc to lift the stuff off. Clean up with small grinder, 'sand paper', wet & dry paper etc – whatever you have. Disperse and clean away the oil with a spray solvent such as carb cleaner, brake cleaner...

Can't tell for sure, from photos, but to me it looks like 'plastic steel' epoxy. Some makes are a bit rubbery, especially if not mixed correctly. It needs to come off. The oil will creep around the area, but the danger is that your case is actually cracked, so it is leaking from the forward area of the case as well as the joint. The broken case will pull the joint open as well as leaking from the crack. That is possible, but the blown gasket scenario is much more common and more likely.

There should be pics on the forum here somewhere of the sealant repair to the joint – the one that works. This is the one that doesn't work: the cracked case. Your leak is around this area? Timing chest cover is cracked in the weak spot by the support bracket: Oil seeping from the crack: The crack, through from the bolt hole to joint. This is a REALLY bad design point and this area is so stressed that glue is no good to keep a seal.

It's the classic spot that the cover leaks from. Looks like the repair has been done with plastic metal. That stuff doesn't work in this situation. I'd scrape /prise it all off. The gasket could be changed, but I sealed the leaking joint on mine externally and the repair worked perfectly. Thoroughly clean the area and then try sealing it with silicone type sealer, preferably black. It worked for me. I'll put in a new gasket... sometime. It does depend exactly where your leak is though. If it is just a blown gasket, the silicone sealer should work. This a a bad, weak area of the case though. If it is actually cracked, close to the support bracket, unfortunately the solution will require a new timing cover. Hopefully it's just the gasket though. Take that plastic steel off so that you can determine where the leak is.

Ah, that's where I went wrong! It's only the dipstick! I shoulda read the manual. I screwed up the whole bike.

Good idea. It makes sense to have the 2010 event the same as the 2010 event. Otherwise it could be very confusing.