rbt1548

Hi Paul, I take it the insert are rotating?, as they are not load bearing screws that will be put under pressure, maybe some 'metal weld' around the edge of the hole to stop the insert rotating and if necessary, if the thread is damaged, some into the hole and recut the standard thread.

And here's me trying to forget my first love

On mine the left hand one fits to the outside, the marks on the exhaust hanger bracket where it comes into contact with the metal spacer in the rubber bush on the pillion hanger indicate this. Also if I try and fit the hanger to the inside the hanger bolt heads would clatter against the hugger and the pipe will not marry up with the pipe from the collector box.

You could buy or make a piston stop which fits directly into the spark plug hole Once you have done that, turn engine completely one way 'til piston stops, mark that , then turn it the other way 'til piston stops; TDC is exactly in the centre point between both marks.

Does the switch come with the rubber boot That protects the terminals !!!. If not does anybody know the part no. For it, or a suitable alternative, mines has disintegrated with the harsh unforgiving scottish sun beating down on it. Gary You could use shrink wrap to protect it if nothing elase available.

Here you go. 22 14 65 70 50 1 Interruttore stop Stop microswitch Interrupteur stop Stop-Schalter 23 90 Taken from here , Illustrated Parts book.... http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/mg_manuals/spare_parts_catalog_v11_lemans_2002-07.pdf Cheers

Will do, but got wheels off just now for cleaning, but will PM you the instructions straight out of the owners manual in case that helps just now.

That about covers it for me too! I had a wee look last night, In the ownwers manual, it says 6 turns fully open to closed for the rebound screw, I get 5; and 15 for the preload nut fully open to fully closed, I get 15. The rear according to the manual the knurled adjuster on the remote for compression should be 43 fully open to closed, I get the 43; but at the rebound knurled adjuster it says I should get 34 open to closed, when I fully close,(clockwise), I get 9 clicks then no more clicks but it still will rotate anti clockwise for a good few turns. The spring preload length is 152mm which the manual says is standard. Anybody enlighten me on the rear rebound settings , any help would be appreciated. Cheers

These are the caps that were fitted to bikes up to 2003, the 2004 seem to have the other caps fitted, there must have been a change over. I have one , a friend has one and the caps are the same. Also the owners manual shows the later type.

Hi PDoz, both my caps have "R" only on with arrows to the +&- and the small triangle, just took a pic of my own, hopefully it will be clearer for you. Multi adjustable suspension is a black art to me, I think I'm someone who doesn't like too many options, and multi adjustable suspension is a bit intricate for me. I appreciate that some people will adjust their suspension to the Nth degree, but when talking to a suspension guy at a bike show he said some adjust their suspension just 'cos the manual says you can turn it a click this way or that and a lot of the bike mags are encouraging people to mess about with suspension settings that are prefectly fine from the factory but only if you were Rossi you would notice the difference. We all know you do have to change some settings if you maybe change from solo to a pillion and luggage, but sometimes I wonder if the mechanic was correct and we change them too much because we are encouraged to do so. I realise that your problem is totally different, yours is all over the place and needs to be sorted, at least you know what your are doing and what to look for , whereas me, I would go to the standard settings and only adjust if I had to, I realise that is probably sacrilege to lots of people but I'm not confindent enough on suspension to mess too much with it. Any idea what is the fully closed direction on the rear? Good luck and I hope you get it sorted! My caps;

Regarding the wiring being stiff and difficult to bend, there is a thread on starter wires on the Norton forum, basically it suggests using welding cable gauge 6AWG it is made up of many strands of wire and is very pliable and gives a good cross sectional area to transfer the current. I did make a set and they are very easy to make by crimping on the connections and insulating them with shrink wrap. Also they do work, Norton starter motors are notoriously slow to turn over but I have noticed a big improvement since changing the cables. The bonus of doing them yourself is, it will not be as expensive and you can cut them to whatever size you need. 6th post down from link below http://www.accessnorton.com/post26121.html?hilit='welding wire'#p26121

My adjusters are both the same too, Marzocchi's, 2007, (late registered, late 2004 ), Le mans, I think they changed them in 2004 to both the same. First pic is of a 2003 model, second pic is a 2004 model the same as my own. My friend has also a 2004 and the fork caps are the same. Is it possible someone has fitted a later pair of forks? It also says in the owners handbook... "The motorcycle is equiped with a hydraulic telescopic fork with separate adjustment of the shock absorbers during rebound and preload", nothing about compression. Does anyone know , on a 2004 model , when it says "from fully closed" which way is fully closed, especially on rear. On front the book does say "3 turns anti clockwise from fully closed so fully closed in the front's case is clockwise, but what way is it fully closed on the rear? Cheers Robert 2003 2004

Meant to say mine is a 2007 reg, (04 built), Le Mans and I'll need to get 2 q/rel couplings. The markings on one hose states 8mm I think they are both same dia on mine.