AndyH

Neat, will order one right away! Will help cut out some of the crap at least. Not so bad over here as in Wales it seems after all, but all that wet leaf mush on the road. Gave the MX5 a few wiggles today, what with the rear drive and all, so just needs that much more concentration on the bike. Good luck!

Thanks, look forward to the pix

Know what you mean, really fiddly, but if you don't use the 'top hat', the alternative is a cracked mudguard. I used a nylon washer to protect the plastic - a bit more give. I got replacement top hats for the mudguard from Stein Dinse, pretty quick turnaround.What fender extenda are you planning to use? I've also been looking for one to keep the crap of the engine now things have got wet here (mild and wet, kind of weird for October!) Loads of things on offer on the 'bay but for 'V11', that could just as likely be a Cali which won't do, I think.

What kind of speeds yields these weaves in your experience? I only get them over 110mph usually wih luggage on the back and then not always. Below that, absolutely solid as a rock: mines a 2000 too with the 160 rear and I think the early ones have the shorter arm too (is that right?).

Signal half a second earlier...? Seriously though, I once drove Mercedes C190 with just half a second delay on the accelerator to power delivery. Drove me nuts and I never got used to it: if I had a quid for every time I unintentionally infringed another road user's right of way, pulling out of junctions etc... Half a second on today's roads is not trivial, I'll grant you.

I carry spare 5 pin relays and they will do for the 4pin relay slots too. In fact I think all mine are 5pin now.

The dyno man told me that the PCIII overlays a revision on the standard map and that includes the warmup map, so he said I'd have to go into the ECU map if I can to revise the warmup as PCIII won't do the warmup separately. While it's on the dyno I may ask him to obtain readings off the bike when stone cold as well as warm to find out what needs adjusting on the warmup map because the damned thing really won't idle (even fast idle) for the first 5 mins and I need both hands to get my helmet and gloves on!

I think this article explains it all quite well ..... http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/739/17076/Motorcycle-Article/Single-Track-Mind---How-Much-is-Too-Much-.aspx ...and the last bit confirms my observation that not only do policemen look younger nowadays but aren't always the paragons of life experience and common sense we were brought up to think they were. I still know to bite my tongue when getting a finger* wagging from an officer of the law. * what they still generally use here instead of firearms, thankfully

Thanks Hubert, sound advice I think, and a good place to start. A

I'm with you on the 2 vs 4 valve thing. 4 valves take something essential away for me and it's about the way the engine delivers, e.g. 2 valve vs 4 valve Dukes; Yam SR500 vs SRX is another example (although by most other measures the latter was a much better bike). The only exception in my experience of a 4 valve engine that seemed way better to me than its 2 valve predecessor was one of the last Meriden Triumphs, the TSS 750. Stonking: what the Meriden Twins should always have been, I got to ride several different TSSs and they all had fine engines (although, as I recall, one of them did subsequently and spectacularly self destruct, so... ). Enjoy your V7. I'm thinking about one myself! Less is more... once again?

Yes, I do Hubert and I was thinking along those lines. Will take a bit of figuring out but I'm sure I'll get there. I need to use GuzziDiag to work on the warm up map anyway (which PC III won't help with), because since I put on the Mistral X-over it really runs rough when cold: really rough for the first 5 mins. Choke makes little or no difference although I think that's little more than a fast idle control anyway:the ECU map does the riching up doesn't it? Correct me if i'm wrong. What I can't work out is whether it's too rich or too weak in the early warm up phase. A plug chop just isn't going to do it.

I was trying to make that point with the guy at the dynojet centre where I'm planning to take the bike. He seemed pretty clued up on V twins in general (compared the other place that said 'We don't do Guzzi's') but I'm not so sure how much he took on board the need to make sure it's well warmed up. I'll make sure I labour the point when I take the bike in there, so thanks for the heads up Ken.

I have a 20 mile ride to the nearest DynoJet shop so should warm up pretty well if I have an appointment. However, I was planning on getting them to fit it (avoids the 'you did it wrong' conversation so beloved of UK bike shops - they want their fitting fee after all) which would allow the bike to cool. But you're right, it's a big lump of an engine and takes time to warm up - I usually feel 15 minutes running before it starts singing in tune and a hundred miles to get operatic. Andy

Cheers, looks like we're good to go. Will book into the DynoJet shop ASAP Thanks all

Thanks for your responses guys.Are your bikes pre lambda, IAW15M like mine or the later IAW15RC? Or does this PCIIIUSB in fact work with both types? Andy

Silver letters on mine!

My wife very kindly got me a PCIII USB for my birthday off the 'bay. She's very good to me... The vendor sent a 703-411 for a Ducati Monster M900 - even says "PCIII USB 00-01 DUC M900" on the box. We've taken the supplier to task on this but he says it is the correct one for the Marelli ECU. Comes with nearly 3 feet of cable too - I once had a Monster and it's not that big! I called DynoJet UK and they confirmed the correct model of PCIII for the MG V11 Sport is a 706-411. I seem to recall seeing a post here about the M900 PCIII being an acceptable substitute as the connectors are the same and it will need to be remapped on a dyno anyway but, search as I may, I can't find the precise posts on the forum that say this. I'm not too fussed about it being exactly the right one as long as it works on the V11. Can anyone enlighten me here? Andy

I gave up on the more forgiving: it's when I lost interest in bikes, for a year or two at least. The V11 keeps me on my toes... To each his own tho' A

Me too... but it matters! Heck, it matters..

Somehow dropping the pan as part of scheduled maintenance and using a hose clamp just to be sure doesn't seem too much pain to me. I clean the gauze while I'm at it. Same logic applies, whatever the quality of the filter, I can't see why'd so many people would take the chance of the filter coming loose on their pride and joy. So I use UFI filters and a hose clamp. I also wear two condoms, to be sure, to be sure.

My V11's liking this weather in the UK at the moment. Not too hot, highish humidity, misty mornings. It's running smooth.... especially in the misty mornings. But only once well warmed up. The weather might be the factor here Grae.

Yeah, I did a double take too... think he means he stuck to that brand for that long but did change betweentimesImages of stinky black sludge abound: had an old Honda CD175 like that once with a rounded off sump plug - just ran and ran...

Just like B & Q.May even be owned by same parent company as they look and lay their stores out the same.In that case with fasteners they'll either have a thousand or none of what you want and they'll be in the wrong place too.

The Electrex R/R is the same, the light comes on at idle, just not so many revs by the looks of it. Given up fretting about it now. Still blip the throttle at lights 'cos it annoys, tho'. A

So is Home Depot the US 'Store of Everything'?