AndyH

my first *real* motorcycle was a BSA Bantam, i think a 1948, had some kind of girder? fork with big rubber bands? had a rusty chrome tank with a rooster decal on it. bought it at a yard sale for $15.00, pushed it home (didn't run). got it running, loved that bike. i was 11 years old, that's how this motorcycle thing all started. ;^) stef If you've lived with old brit bikes, you have different expectations of what a front brake should do (or not). The BSA C15 I learned on did all its stopping on the back brake. So much so, that when my throttle cable snapped one day, I put a screw-on brass nipple on the cable and used the front brake lever as a throttle as a temporary fix - for two months. I missed the front brake that much. That was 35 years ago, even got stopped by the police several times and they didn't think that bit worthy of comment: if they caught you doing that now they'd throw away the key. Back to the point, the V11 doesn't seem to me as front loaded as, say, Jap I4s.

Thanks for this, and thanks for asking the question Snr Bastida: I've just been working on my TPS and TB and struggling with the concept of the right throttle stop screw and what it does. Like nipples on men I guess... there just in case. Andy

Nice! The UK dealer (Corsa Italiana) is close to where I work, so I might just be passing one day with a credit card... AndyH

The RM is Japanese import. That bike won't have had a hard life before you got it then, unless it was ridden by a track-day nut. They're only allowed to do like 50 mph over in Japan and most Japanese market large capacity chain-drive bikes have special sprocket ratios because of it. Not much you can do with a Guzzi shaft tho' in those circumstances, eh? Feel sorry for 'em.

Went looking for the breather hose today after taking some snaps. https://picasaweb.google.com/113055271327028956964/V11LeMans Is this a newbie hazing thing? Breather hose? Do you know where they put it?! Not to be dramatic but, oh dear. Do we know how many red/grey V11 Le Mans were produced? Bob Nice pics, no wonder you wanted to buy it. Now the hard work begins by the sound of it... but it'll be worth it!! You'll probably become more familiar with your bike than any other bike you've had for years - take that as a good or a bad thing depending on your point of view! I think the breather hose you're referring to is the one that goes up into the frame spine from the top of the crank case - well hidden under the tank.

Breather chamber I believe, not oil in frame, doesn't carry oil 'cept emulsion maybe? Wot he said! Sorry, cross posted, Hubert!!

Breather chamber I believe, not oil in frame, doesn't carry oil 'cept emulsion maybe?

Thanks Andy! And yes, Thank the Lord that it was just a speed bump, not someone's rear bumper, deer, etc. It's just that I've NEVER seen one blow off the fitting. I have popped OEM rubber type hoses on one of my older cages...(but then again, that had some sort of external abrasion area--or was it my wife with her nail file?) BTW if you're new to V11s: DO check the shock absorber eye on the swing arm - that is prone to splitting open into a C on the Sachs shocks (maybe others too) and is not easily seen without getting the wheel and/or hugger off: my V11 passed the annual UK MOT test with the split opening up: that shouldn't happen but they're not allowed to dismantle viehicles for the test here so wouldn't see it in a static or rolling road test. Haven't heard of catastrophic failure yet (as in suspension collapse & loss of control), but who'd want to be the first? Glad I spotted it first (replaced with a Hagon shock w/o external reservoir BTW - seems fine for my riding style). See various other posts in the forum for 'Gallery of Horrors' examples!! Andy

My opinion too. Seriously shocking!! Not par for the course as far as I have heard: Guzzis have different vices, heh heh! Shouldn't let it put you off: get it fixed and move on, thanking your lucky stars it was at 15 not 115. We've all had stuff happen on bikes that shouldn't over the years (e.g. new chain snap at 80mph - not at soft link either, swing arm pivot bolt shearing at speed). That's your bad bit out of the way: enjoy the rest. Andy

I'm pretty gentle on the front tyre too. I find I'm not using the front brake so much on this bike: certainly less so than on the Monster I had. It's not as though front braking throws it out of shape that much so that's not stopping heavy front brake usage. I just think because V11 engine braking does slow the bike down pretty well by itself perhaps it particularly encourages that riding style. If you're not on the front brake all the time like you might be with say a Jap four when mixing it with typical UK traffic, then maybe that doesn't get the heat in that front tyre so much. Just a thought Andy

Thanks for the tip on the Stradas: could have been a costly mistake. Michelins wouldn't be my first choice anyway 'cos, right or wrong, I always think of them as sticky but too quick wearing. You tell a different story on that but thanks for the feedback on the V-shape thing. Doesn't sound good. Andy

Hang on, I thought the link in your own post on this topic answers that question (i.e LFX18L1-BS12) or am I on the wrong end of a stick here? AndyH

Sounds like we have similar riding styles. Take it easy then maybe some mad moments well within limits set by many years of riding. Your post seems to have hit the board at roughly the same time as the Metzeler topic. To which I added my personal prejudices: Metzeler Z6 Howls like a monkey ... #6... namely: 1. I hate Metzelers in general (a number of folk with me on that) 2. Bridgestones have served me very well at a reasonable price over the years but 3. prefer Pirellis in general if I have the choice. No experience of Pirellis on the V11 but I'm guessing Stradas would be the choice for 'Sports Touring' but would appreciate reviews re: cost vs handling (esp. in the wet) and wear rates and characteristics. Oh, and did I say I hate Metzelers? Andy H

You wouldn't think there was room if it wasn't there in technicolor! I was thinking this would be a sensible mod for a road rider like me, but how does this compare to a timing gear set:, has anyone tried them? Spur vs straight cut, steel vs alloy etc etc.? So many options... they're expensive but are they worth it to anyone not racing or outright performance hungry? Andy

Never liked Metzelers in 20+ years of knowing them on all sorts of bikes and had several nasty surprises in the past: the worst when the front let go in braking straight and level in the dry on a good road surface. My wife doesn't like them either (OEM on her Triumph): says the handling just 'goes off a cliff' (she's an F1 addict, BBC watchers) when they wear down (esp. on overbanding and white lines) and went back to Bridgestones front and back this month. I found them skittish in the damp too, both latter points concurring with Trevini. Bridgestones work OK for me on the V11 as currently fitted but will cut over to Pirellis if both front and back wear out at the roughly same time as I've generally preferred them on other makes of bike. To be fair Metzelers may work for something out there but I've just not found it. Andy

I was wondering about how that fitted too, so I held off getting one. Would be interested to hear the answer. Andy

Smell of the oil should tell you - I have the same issue with my gearbox dripping on my cross-over and smoking. Seems to be coming from the plug itself and adding a thin layer of sealant to the crush washer, which has always worked for me in the past, has made not the slighted difference. There also seems to be some engine oil misting getting through to the underside of the 'box too however, I've ruled out the engine sump or hose connections - both are dry. This seems to be coming from the forward edge of the gearbox. No clutch slip though so I'll leave be for the moment and watch. Check out Kiwi-Roy's Test Point Layout diagram for a comprehensive guide. I'm still wrestling with Relay problems at the moment and replacement may not be the only bit of tinkering needed: sort out connections too because poor connections seem to be responsible for apparently illogical electrical behaviour. AndyH

Wow, just looked and that represents some serious monastic dedication to the art of diagrams! And really helpful too... Thanks Andy

Update: Fat wire (27 amp rating) added, soldered connections, from Electrex Regulator to Maxi blade 30 Amp fuse then to battery +ve. Fat (27 amp rating) earth/ground wire added from Electrex Regulator to Engine timing cover. 12 amp rating earth/ground wire added from clocks to Engine timing cover. Engine earth/ground strap removed, contact surfaces scrubbed clean and re-tightened. All relay blades cleaned and vaselined. Most block connectors around frame spine taken apart, inspected, contacts cleaned, vaselined and reassembled. Oil pressure switch connectors cleaned, vaselined and reassembled (this had just stopped working for some reason, but works now) Result: - At idle (charge light on) Voltage at battery: ~13.25 - Charge Light goes out at faster idle, Voltage: ~13.5 - High revs, Voltage levels out at ~14.15 - ~14.2 - High revs, Headlamp on, Voltage: ~13.75 - Charge light is much stronger when on and comes on and goes off more decisively. This helps me to identify clearly when idle is too slow, and I have to agree with docc, idle could be low but without a tacho, I have to use Roy's marks on the Alternator method (and I have strip light in the garage). I think I'm on the way to sorting this and now have to fix the idle and other throttle stuff. A 200 mile test ride next weekend should show whether this has all been in vain or not.

Given my ongoing problems with charging and random electrical behaviours, this is now in my workshop manual file, already with grubby finger marks over it. The Wiring diagram supplied inthe V11 Sport manual was clearly done by Luigi burning the midnight oil, possibly with a bottle or two of his favourite vino or grappa just hours before the deadline, 'cos the numbers of the relays have clearly been edited as an afterthought and the key has quite a few errors in it. It also helpfully lists the function and order of the fuses (which already have symbols on them on the fuse box) but, strangely, not the relays. So this really has cleared up a few mysteries for me. Cheers Andy

That answers my next question! I'm waiting on some white faced clocks from dave that will hopefully sort the lack of tacho but we're trying to find a reasonable carrier that won't charge a significant proportion of the cost of the clocks themselves!

I had to calculate back from chock full to reserve light which I reckon is about 17.5l and I get about 150 miles under mixed motorway (expressway) and back road conditions. This means I get close enough to 13km/l too on a standard V11 Sport.

I think you may be right: the idle speed has probably dropped over time without me noticing. I know I have to do the Throttle stuff some time soon (already printed out the TPS post in FAQs on that one - v comprehensive), just been putting it off. So, noted and added to the list of things to do.

I use the aerosol over keyed/cleaned on hidden bits (battery carrier etc.) which it says it's designed to do,but I can't get a good enough finish even with the aerosol. The brush on stuff is worse: it's so thick I can't get out all the brush marks and you can only thin/clean up with Hammerite thinner. That's so expensive I haven't bought it in years, so I wrap the brush up in Ally foil between coats and throw it when I'm done, it's cheaper. Upshot is I use Hammerite to protect hidden bits against corrosion but not on anything pretty that people will get to see. Andy