Cabernet

Changing out the rose bearings in the linkage transformer my gearbox.

Yes, I got the logic in your previous post. It does work after a fashion. Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk

I believe it to be 2002 mascarading as a 2003. Yep I read something on that a while back. Got a link to it perchance? Fuel pump outside the tank and formerly black face clocks. Now red. Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk

Someone on here posted they'd had a pawl spring failure. They also posted they were able to still get a gear change by braking heavily before changing. Having a spring go after less than 6000 miles I gave it a go. A bit of a hit and miss affair, but I was able to go from 2nd to 5th where I stayed until near home, then dropped back to 4th for the last urban 2miles. Spring is out now and ready for a new one. So thanks for sharing the technic. Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk

Stew, Worth getting a pair of cylinder protectors. Gutsibits do those that use all the bolts, not just those on the outer edge. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk The red is post sale anodizing Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Stew, Worth getting a pair of cylinder protectors. Gutsibits do those that use all the bolts, not just those on the outer edge. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

If you get anywhere, give me a PM. I will order yours and for myself, being in the UK and ship your on at a good exchange and shipping rate. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

May only be a short term fix. I have had an issue on my Breva 750 rear brake. I would extend the pisiton and clean, exercise and reinstall, but after a few months it would bind again.I got serous and had it all apart last week. The wiper seal had perished, disintegrated and gone bar some residue. Thoroughly cleaned and a new seal kit installed and all is well. Why oh why Breva 750 rear seal kits are available, but V11 rear are not illudes me. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

I think this is referring to the adjustment screw on the lever, which actuates the plunger. If you screw it in too much, you reduce the free-play, and can end up not allowing fluid back in. I had that problem on the clutch side a while ago. The lever went rock hard and the clutch started slipping - then I backed that screw out and got some free-play back. Same principle with the brakes - but worse potential consequences (lock-up brakes vs slipping clutch). If that's not what it is, then there's an adjustment I don't know about yet. Did the same thing on the back brake and wrecked the slave cylinder seals. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Yep, that's how you know. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

How old are the pads? Wonder if the bonding agent could go off over time. Have you replace a disc? Years ago I replaced a disc on my VX800 with a bargin basement cheapy. It ran fine on organic pads. Put some sintered in and it devoured them in a days couriering. Got some more organic in and fine again. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

However, if you put the tighter coils at the top you reduce the unsprung mass of the front wheel assembly. Reducing the unsprung mass means the spring has less work to do keeping the wheels on the deck evenly. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

As it spluttered anf now doesn't has the fuel run out. Is the manual tank isolation valve open? Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

If you remove the pads. Then in the OE tool bag there is a large allen key that just slides into the pad crevis along the disc path. You can then pump the pistons out and know they won't pop out. You can then get at al the exposed circumference for cleaning. Becareful compressing each piston back in that you don't pop another out.If you need new pads, I am pleased with Renthal BP-507 and BP-511 on the back. The ceramic backing inhibits heat transfer from pads to fluid. Prior, I used to suffer rear brake failure from over heated fluid quite regular on track and occasionally on spirited road riding. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Shake down run Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Concur, it is the rear brake groaning. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Link says item deleted. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

It is registered as a 2003 Naked Sport, but it has no Lamba sensor and external fuel pump. So it may only be masquerading as a 2003, having sat in a show room for a year or two unregidtered. It has Aprilia style switch gear and had black clocks before I switched them for an LCD digital dash. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Just a quick up date. The set up has proven successful over some 1000 miles now I guess. One further mod. I have used a clutch side handlebar grip on the inlet end of the copper tube to protect the tank. Other than that, it would seem, "jobs a gooden". Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

As it is topical, I was out on a +350 mile sortie Sunday week back. The air intake sensor mode I have employed, as I am now air boxless, work well. The only issue noted was the copper intake vibrating on the underside of the tank. I have resolved this by deploying a clutch grip over the intake. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

This winter I am going to have my swing arm off and grease mine. Going to consider splicing the front UJ guard to facilitate post swing arm reinstallation access. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Like me, we have good mass centralization. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Interesting theory. I wondered why you added a heat sink to the temp sensor.Heat sink, as in the copper tube or the clamp that holds it in place from the fuel pump bolt. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

There's a matching one to the clutch also. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Theory goes, at slow and stationary the copper will quickly conduct heat to the air in the sensor tube. As soon as significant motion occurs, the draft through the tube will cool the sensor, basically simulating that which the throttle bodies will see. Seems to work over the first 250 miles. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk