Cabernet

These might help more. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Hmmm . . . I see a little copper tube nosing out from under the tank. Is it an air intake just for the Air Temperature sensor?Yup Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Runs fine. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

As the bike is supported by an abba stand using the swing arm nuts, that little way further is not so easy. I will look at supporting a different way next tyre change. Thanks all for responses. Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

How do we lube the grease nipple? Bevel box and trail UJ are off. I have the lead UJ released from the gear box spline, but it won't pass through the swing arm tunnel where the drive shaft passes. Surely it's not a swing arm removal? Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk

Thanks all. I get the gist. Appreciate the responses.

So. I am scrapping the airbox, in favour of K&N. What do I do with the sensor.

The sensor is below the filter to the forward right side. What is its' purpose? I am guessing inlet air temp?

The slave cylinder can be removed by removal of the “Plate connection frame GU01420160”. Be sure to unclip the rear brake hose brackets and gear lever pivot spindle. Be sure to clean the slave cylinder retaining bolts prior to attempting removal. YABA DADA DO!

Are we talking the slave cylinder here?

So on my V11 Sport, I have drill the top yoke (triple clamp) to take a handlebar conversion. Was planning on using some flat bars which would allow use of the OE cables and hoses just. However the tail of the master cylinders foul on the fork tops. As a result I have had to go for a bar with some rise. This means changing the hoses, cables and extending the wiring. Niffed, but not phased I have set about removing the cables and hoses. Throttle, “choke”, and brakes came apart fine. Clutch master cylinder no problem. The stud connector on the clutch slave initially start to come away fine, but then the thread picked up. After much fretting it finally came away, but the threads on the nipple are gouged and the slave cylinder threads can’t be great and will need a tap running down them at least. It is clearly apparent where Brembo stops and Guzzi starts. To get the slave cylinder out, I’m thinking I will have to remove the “Plate connection frame GU01420160”. Is this necessary or advisable? I currently have the bike support on an Abba stand via the swing arm pivot retaining nuts. I would have to remove two of the four bolt that retain the ref kidney plate to the spine flange. Can I presume this won’t be an issue? I plan on putting a second jack under the gear box while I have the two bolts out. Any advice or wrinkles?

Whilst striping my rocker boxes in the garage, I have been listen to an ELP album. Seem apt. RIP Greg Lake. Sent wrestling with Tapatalk.

Experience the odometer failure at 15,000 miles. Read about other woes and decided to change the problem. Solution. Check out this dash

Sent wrestling with Tapatalk.

Make some spacers to go under VX800 bar mounts to raise the bar high enough to clear the fork tops. Sent wrestling with Tapatalk.

Sharp eyes. Have been thinking about doing the conversion for a bit. Just needed the motivation to "tip over" the scales into my action. Sent wrestling with Tapatalk.

Step one. Drill the top yoke. Complete. Sent wrestling with Tapatalk.

The PR4 does not suit heavier bikes I understand (not used PR4 myself). They have alot of block cuts which move to generate heat. Too much with a heavy machine. I am riding with earlier versions that are still made Sent wrestling with Tapatalk.

I have done similar on the Bridgestone. BT014 up front and BT023 on rear. Have to stay the "Pilot Road" wear and grip hung on well. 6k on rear and counting. As you say, the front is only 65% worn. Soon be swapping wheels that have the Bridgestones ready n waitin'.

Thanks Stew, I am getting access to a mill to drill and counter bore the top yoke. Once that's done, I may tap you up for those bars. You going to the Staff's Guzzi meet tonight? Cab's

Up front, I am running Renthal BP-507-HHP. Very powerful. Like the heat shield ceramic backing to reduce heat transfer to the fluid. http://road.renthal.com/shop/road-products/road-brake-pads

As edited above, I will be going down the Renthal route, but thanks for the input. I will look at the emissions canister.

So I have been looking at a handlebar conversion, moving away from my much loved under top yoke clip-ons (Getting to old. All too often I wheel my B750 out the garage for a Sunday spin. V11 seems to only come out on track days). This clearly mean my body mass will migrate rearward. Something that concerns me a little, as I have always found my 2002 Sport works best when I move forward up against the tank and get my chin down. I will be going down the Renthal route for the conversion. Now to get handlebar mounts on, the first task is to drill the top yoke. I spent yesterday manipulating the bikini fairing and clocks out the way and removing the tank (thankfully not swollen yet) to disconnect the ignition. Clearly an opportunity to change the filter. Now it has occurred to that the space under the tank could house the battery, thus moving its’ mass forward. Of course replacement K&N style throttle body mounted air filters would need to be employed. It would shift the battery mass up a little. This would improve mass transfer to the front wheel on braking. This won’t hurt as the V11 front locks before the rear lifts. However slower direction change might result, but can’t see that being more effectual then a full tank. Any one played or have any thoughts?

http://www.koflair.at/org/fz1-2006/fz1-2006-12.jpg Sent wrestling with Tapatalk.

A couple. The bolt on the risers for VX800 are long enough to just clear the fork tops without moving them. So a goodly spacer would riser it enough. Alternatively the FZ1 has some good height risers. The bar options seem limited due to the distance between the bosses under the top yoke that will need drilling. Thinking a Renthal 658 superbike bar. Sent wrestling with Tapatalk.