jrt

Yeah, that's ok and all, but Andy- how do you really feel?

The stays on the rear fender are just to keep the frames held apart. You could probably just run a rod all the way across to accomplish the same thing, although you might have to cut the existing stays. it would go from |--o o--| to |-------| (not to scale) don't you just love ascii art.... Jason

It's a classic. I had to download that one and leave it on the desktop a while. J

And really, is that a bad thing? Ford MoCo came out with the 'Probe'. and Uma drove around in this

what he said ^. Good to have you back- J

A man of Tx computer skills would be non-threatening as an instructor. The money is in porn, though. But please- no samples. Definitely, find another job. Slapping a kid (even if he does deserve it) is a losing proposition. What about courtesy driver for an auto dealership? Get to drive around Houston all day (woo hoo). J

The Honda Rebel is right up there, as well. Nice imagary, Tim. Now I'm going to have to take the medicine again.

She'll be a convert in no time!

You're a real lady-killer, I bet. Thanks for the info- now I'll look into getting a condom for my K&N. J

No, and yes. I don't recall seeing any dyno tests of bikes, before and after, where the only airbox was replaced or modified (no exhaust changes). A parts manual and a workshop manual are available on yahoo (you have to join- it's free): http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/v11manuals/files/ download 'tree.gif' and construct the appropriate directories on your computer- the files are all in the 'V11root' folder. Jason

In what way? I'm seriously not trying to start an oil thread here- just curious. More air flow or better filtration? The K&N's I am using now are pretty free-flowing. JuhaV, the flange one's just might work. The inlet diameter is small, so measure the throttle body. The other thing to consider is that there is no support for the filter and I don't know how well the angle on the flange will work. Will they run into the spine frame? The pods directly on the end of the velocity stacks rub on the frame and are a tight, but acceptible fit. I really can't make a judgement call on whether to have a velocity stack- conventional wisdom is that it's important (this going all the way back to loopframes), but Jaap and several others report no ill effects from mounting directly on the throttle bodies. Jason

100 bones when I bought mine. Looks like Todd has the same price. J

So what do you ride off road Bill? I was...am thinking real hard about getting a KLR. It's been years since I had an offroad bike and I miss the dirt. The old G5 was ok, but it wallows, if ya' know what I mean. Jason

I wish I'd have known this two years ago when I bought mine. Todd, is there a replacement for the clutch as well? The 'gold' is....well....ugly I guess is the word (unless you have ohlins). I have silver and I like it a lot. The adjustment is more than stock, and it rests comfortably under two fingers. I put one through the side of my pannier the other day (dont ask), and I can attest that they are pretty damn tough also. J

RU-0600, I think. That's the big, cylindrical K&N. There are tapered K&N's as well. I think the critical thing is the inside diameter. K&N product page Some people mount directly on the throttle body, others don't. I haven't seen definitive evidence that one way is better than the other. If you mount onto the velocity stacks, you have to cut off the flare. That's the downside to that approach. Jason

In the latest US MGNOC newsletter, there's a couple of items of interest- I am summarizing: Factory Ti exhaust for V11 sport, perfect condition $700 '95 sport frame $500, subframe $250 Rob Swan, Murphy NC 828-835-9165 didn't know the sport had a subframe? Ad doesn't say if the exhaust comes with computer. Don't know the guy, can't vouch for anything- this is just information If anyone buys that stuff, let me know and I'll remove his personal info from this ad. Jason

With it's limited finances, I think I would rather see Guzzi try to finish their water-cooled engine. Seems like a longer-ended strategy. Not that I'm against 4V heads, but it appears that people are already working on it. J

No, no- it should be fine. That's what the manual calls for, so it's there for a reason. It feeds a whole lotta stuff including (I think) the starter, so it has to be relatively high amp. For some reason, when you wrote 'headlamp fuse', I read 'starter fuse'. Should be cool. Still a good idea to check connections to the battery and frame occasionally. Enjoy your ride! Jason

Oh yeah, now it's just degenerating into name calling. :!: What next? 'Dino-oil lover'? 'low-tire-pressure-larry'? You two should just settle this like men, and by that I mean a drinking contest.

If you blew a 10A, then you might want to check/cleanup your grounds because even with a starter that's a lot of amps. The Guzzi factory has a reputation for putting whatever is at hand into the machines. Maybe the 15A fuse was too far away, and hey- here's a 10A! That oughta work just fine.

You mean like this one?

Bingo! Good eye, Tim. Jason

This is (unlike the earlier ones) a real bike- actually produced. Sorry the image is small, but I incuded a detail of the motor as well. Martin....get back to work.

But definitely keep an eye on it! When the lights flare up, they are only doing that because the current (well, voltage but V=IR) through them surged. That same current is feeding your computer as well and computers don't do so well with high voltage. Jason