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Al, I'm glad you're all right. I'm really glad your baby is ok. I made out like crazy this year- I bought myself a few copies of old vinyl- some blues and some jazz (including an original pressing of Dave Brubeck, Time Out). My wife was way too nice to me- she got me a 'Faster' DVD, which promises to be cool when it comes in and........................wait for it.....................a track day at Blackhawk farms raceway! That should be really, really fun. I'll press ya'll for advice on it later. And the best thing is, of course, that we are healthy and happy. Cheers, Jason

Merry Christmas from the frigid Midwest. It's a balmy -4 F (-20 C) here, so maybe I won't go for a ride today. Bedsides- I have no shifter or brake lever on my bike right now (heh heh). stay safe if you you do have to go out- there's ton's of people on the roads and in the skys. If ya accidentally run over Santa, HelicopterJim will never get his MGS01 J

Jim, you're an optimist. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all of ya'll. Hope everyone's been good- I've got a spankin' new dustpan to clean up the coal I'm expecting. Jason

They are both spine frames. All recent sports are spine frames. The 'modern' Guzzi names go like this: loop frame: 67-74 bikes, so named because the frame loops under the cylinders and around and up the back. Real swoopy and cool looking. Kind of wambly, but a lot better than anything else of it's time. tonti frames: 74--> so named because the frame was designed by Lino Tonti (sp?). Looks a lot like the loop except more angular and the lower rails unbolt from the upper frame truss. Really good, but heavy. Very stiff. but heavy. still in use today on the California line. spine frame ~93 or 94 -->. so named because they use a big-ass square 'spine' that runs down between the cylinders as the frame. No lower rails, the engine is used as a stressed member. Very stiff fore and aft, maybe not so much side to side (but it's better than I can feel). designed by either Dr. John or more likely Tony Foale. Jason

Bwahahahaha!

eh, details. Carl, Offa one of the ffmpegx forums:

heh, heh. Don't worry Carl, I went through the same sh*t. J

Cantaloop, You're crazy....but in a good way. Enjoy!! Jason

Oh, yeah! We used to go out to the Frio for camping when I was young. My Grandparents, parents, and a passle of kids. That's a great area- right at the edge between West Texas and the Hill Country. J

There is some nice country in Oklahoma. Being that I'm from Texas, I admit that only grudgingly. There is also a seriously die-hard contingent of Guzzisti (with thick accents) that hail from them parts. You're in for a culture-shock, Carl. But it's not a bad thing. Congrats and well-wishes! Jason

LOL! Check the ground wire and put some grease on the connectors. That'll fix it 90% of the time. J

No, but I'd love to see it done. Feeling ambitious? Cheers, Jason

A very few of the (early?) '01s had the con-ron bolts replaced under recall. If you didn't get a notice and your mechanic didn't do it along with the tranny, it probably didn't need it. My '01 only got the tranny done. I can't recall what the problem was exactly- material defect maybe? Jason

I had the same issue, but 22 min, 43 seconds into the video. I don't pretend to know why it did work when it did. I think maybe I set the 'motion detection' level differently. I'll be happy to send you a copy as well if you send me your address. Cheers, Jason

Torque values haven't changed much over the years. A 6 mm bolt is a 6 mm is a 6 mm. They almost always are going to be around 7 ft/#. But if all you are looking for is a few specific torque values (head, rocker asmbly, valve covers), then Head bolts: 40-42 Nm (29-31 ft/lbs) Fastening screws for rocker pins 6-8 Nm (5-7 ft/lbs) Con Rod caps 61-66 Nm (45-48 ft/lbs) And I got these from the shop manual I downloaded from yahoo. It's not an owners manual, although they are there as well. And I'm with Al- Guzziology is da shizzle. Not sure what that means, but I stand behind my ignorance. Jason

Whoops, sorry to kenr. Thanks Ken! He offered to send me a copy as well. I was just stubborn enough that I wanted to figure it out myself. I do have iDVD, but it doesn't seem to do anything. I used mmpegenc and a few other utilities. The problem with PAL is that even though there is no region encoding, most DVD machines here (US) won't read that format- they are hard-coded for NTSC *only*. Antonio- send who over? A disk? You might ask Martin to send you one- it's cheaper for shipping and the video format will be correct. Fox- the file is 1.7 GB. My first choice is mail a hardcopy due to size, but if you are desparate (and have your own dvd burner), I'll put it on a server. Shoot me a PM. Jason

First, you have to have a yahoo membership. It's free and it takes 2 seconds if you don't have one. Then, log in. Go to the V11 manuals home page. Click on 'Files' Here's the list of files you will see: !!Free_browse_thousands_of_profiles_of_single_bikers!.htm 8 KB California_Owners_Manual.zip V11_Sports_Owners_Manual.zip sport_1100i_owners_manual.zip tree.gif v11root Download "tree.gif". This describes where you need to put the files that you are about to download. Click on 'v11root' Download v11cd.zip (you have to unzip the zipped files, of course) click on 'gb' download the 'v11.htm' file click on 'css' and download the files in that directory and then go back and download the files in the 'img' directory. It's easiest if you set up your directory structure before you begin downloading. The 'img' and 'css' suitcases contain a ton of files, so you ought to put them in their respective directories on your hard drive before unzipping them. When you are done, you'll have about 5-600MB of files. They need to be in that exact directory structure or the links won't work (it's set up as a web page). Basically, set up the same directories as there are on yahoo. Jason

Here ya' go- several options: shop manual thread Jason Edit: Here's a file of torque values for some of the older Guzzi's. I didn't compile it, but I have appreciated using it. Most of them should work for the newer models, but....you get what you pay for, I suppose.torque_specs.pdf

Well, I finally figured out how to write a DVD movie from the .avi file Martin gave me. Thanks Martin! And, I'm darn proud of myself- I figured out how to write the disk image using all the Unix tools built into MacOS X. I get three nerds and snaps for that one. Last night I watched it on my home DVD player, and everything appears to be copasetic. The hard part was trying to figure out how to convert from British PAL format to the US NTSC format. The program itself was ok- I learned that there is only one optometrist and one dentist in Mandello. For ya'll that was interested, shoot me an email/PM and I'll mail you a copy (or I can host the disk image as long as it's discreet- I don't want to infringe on copyright too much). I suggest in lieu of paying for shipping ($1), send a donation to v11lemans for web site maintanence. Jason

I've heard that JBWeld can work miracles.

Looks nice as always, Rich! The Ural is looking sharp as well. Very cool. Jason

Re: suggestion #3, I've had very good luck with a permatex product- a blue, non-hardening flange sealant: http://www.permatex.com/heavy_duty/Engines...m&item_no=25249 messy- it only takes a wee bit to coat a surface. I like that it is non-hardening, so if a little gets squished into the oil, it won't foul the galleyways. And it seals great- I've never seen a leak with this stuff. Jason

Sure, but are you skinny?

There IS a cog-belt available, but not for FI bikes. scroll down 1/2 way

Hi JuhaV, I've never had any success changing the tensioner without removing the three sprockets. It's too tight a fit and the bolts are right behind the chain. Arrgh. Removing the sprockets is pretty easy though. (this from working on Tonti frames) Don't know which style is better- I've heard the spring type makes more noise...dunno if that's true, and dunno if it affects performance The spring type is a lot cheaper though, and it seems like it's a fine design. Regards, Mr Ambivalence