jrt

Not much- that's the only bolt that holds the tank on. Here's what I wrote in an earlier thread ... There's no need to drain the tank, but put a piece of soft cardboard or cloth on the ground to lay the tank on. I also put a 2X4 under the back of the tank (when it's off) to keep it up off the hardware. Anyhow, loosen the bolt at the back of the tank, under the seat. Careful not to drop the nut- it's a weird one. Lift up the tank a little, 2-5" or so (a piece of wood can be used to prop the tank up), and reach up and pop off the two rubber lines that go up the center line (vents). If you have an electric petcock, then disconnect the electric connector, also the fuel sensor, both are on the left side. Then just lift the tank back, up and off. A Lemans might be a bit more cramped, this is what I do on my sport. 5 minutes, tops- 10 the first time.

What's the advantage of using an even deeper sump? Or is it just ease of filter change that you are looking for? J

Hey, good tip Mike. I cut the tits off mine with a sharp knife and filed them flush. Works fine. I have Alu bars (Whatever Spiegler carries) and I like them, but most bar ends, cruise controls, and other widgets are designed for iron bars. J

Ballacraine, Try these instructions. I just set it up on a PC, so they should work: Here’s how to set the V11 cd from yahoo up. If you mess it up, don’t worry about it. Keep the .zip files, trash everything else, and start over. Make a folder on your hard drive and name it “v11 Manual” (C:/v11 Manual) Download the following file (found in the ‘files’ section on yahoo) into the “v11 Manual” folder. v11cd.zip (855 KB) Unzip the v11cd file and it should make a folder called ‘v11cd-folder’ that has some files in it. Rename ‘v11cd-folder’ to ‘v11cd’. Open it up if you want. Go to the Windows menu, View-->list to see the files. Download the following files to your desktop (or any folder other than v11cd) css1.zip (4 MB) css2.zip (2.5 MB) img1.zip (2 MB) img2.zip (3 MB) tree.gif , this shows the directory structure you are going to make. I use Stuffit Expander for Windows, but unzip should work as well. Unzip css1.zip, to give a folder called css1-folder Unzip css2.zip, to give a folder called css2-folder Similarly img1.zip and img2.zip to give two folders named img1-folder and img2-folder Next is consolidation and building the directory structure you need. We’re going to move a few files around (no big deal) and create a nested directory (no big deal). In C:/v11 Manual/v11cd, make a new folder and call it ‘gb’ (C:/v11 Manual/v11cd/gb) Open gb, and in it (C:/v11 Manual/v11cd/gb) make a new folder and call it ‘v11’ (C:/v11 Manual/v11cd/gb/v11) Move ‘css1-folder’ into the ‘v11’ folder (C:/v11 Manual/v11cd/gb/v11/) Rename it to ‘css’ Now move the ‘img1-folder’ into the ‘v11’ folder (C:/v11 Manual/v11cd/gb/v11/) Rename it to ‘img’ Move the *contents* of ‘css2-folder’ into the folder named ‘css’ (C:/v11 Manual/v11cd/ gb/v11/css/) Move the *contents* of ‘img2-folder’ into the folder named ‘img’ (C:/v11 Manual/v11cd/gb/v11/img/) Throw away the now empty ‘css2-folder’ and ‘img2-folder’ Open the css folder, and move the file called v11.html into the gb folder (C:/v11 Manual/v11cd/gb/) . You may need to open two windows to do this, or copy v11.html to the desktop first, then into the gb folder. Now, when you look in the folder called ‘gb’, you should see a folder named v11 and a file named v11.html (the file may not show the extension- it will look like an internet explorer ‘e’ file). Go up one directory to v11cd, double click on the file named ‘inizio.html’. You should be good to go.

I don't have an ex-wife. Got a mean ex-girlfriend, though.

Someone posted this on the topica forum earlier. It has some manuals, some parts books. I haven't really looked it over and I don't read Italian very well, but I noticed '2002 Lemans' somewhere. http://officina.moto-guzzi.it/ Perhaps we should add a 'FAQ' for manuals? I'll try to put something together. J

.

A little off topic and a little on topic. Say you put a downpayment or a deposit on an MGS and it never shows up. Do you get your money back? I would assume so, but it seems like it could get ugly. J

Boy gets around....

Rob, It's easy to remove the tank. Loosen and remove the gas line on the left side and the return line on the right (if you have a manual petcock, then close it ). There's no need to drain the tank, but put a piece of soft cardboard or cloth on the ground to lay the tank on. I also put a 2X4 under the back of the tank (when it's off) to keep it up off the hardware. Anyhow, loosen the bolt at the back of the tank, under the seat. Careful not to drop the nut- it's a weird one. Lift up the tank a little, 2-5" or so (a piece of wood can be used to prop the tank up), and reach up and pop off the two lines that go up the center line (vents). If you have an electric petcock, then disconnect the electrics, also the fuel sensor, both are on the left side. Then just lift the tank back, up and off. A Lemans might be a bit more cramped, this is what I do on my sport. 5 minutes, tops- 10 the first time. This is an excellent time to install the horns, but you will see that it is so easy to pull the tank, that you can install them anytime. J

Yes and yes and yes... But .... If I recall, they dubbed the sound of a 4 cyl. bike over the Guzzi! I haven't been able to watch that or any other Chris Tucker movie since. J

I think I'm full of shite, and this wouldn't be the first TIME. I thought I remembered a thread that got closed for length issues. But now, I can't it, and this alzenheimers stuff is for the birds. So...you got plenty of time to post on. Speaking of time, how is Jaap's holiday going? Anyone know? J

Don't make it overly complicated. It's really a simple process of using the existing horn wiring to activate the new horn relay that you install. While you are fiddling with all that, you can clean the ground to the voltage regulator and/or add another ground to the engine block. J

That would explain the paparazzi.

Nicely put. That's probably more accurate than we care to admit, although you have to wonder- genius or idiot-savante ? The things that will help are those that allow the motor to run cooler (richen it up a bit), allow more airflow through the center of the bike, and moving the fuel system away from heat. A PCIII will get you the first- it may be just the ticket for altitude (I have no experience here). To get the second, you could switch to K&N's, remove the airbox, and you get vast tracts of real estate under the tank. From what I've read, the primary thing to look for, however, is the routing of the fuel hose. Make sure it is as far away from the cylinders as possible. Removing the evaporative cannisters will also give you a little more airflow under there, but won't do anything about the state of tune. And...they are there for environmental protection, so at least consider that before ripping them out. J

I'm just paranoid.

I think you're right, actually. The time has come for this thread to gently into that good night. To sigh, sigh against the dying of the light. (Sorry, Dylan). If I recall, Jaap once mentioned that these long threads play havoc with the database, so get your ya ya's out soon and I'll administer the euthenasia this weekend. J

I've had a G5 (270,000miles), two Eldorados, and a V11sport (over the last 20 years) that I've put extensive miles on. The only one that ever gave me a 'real' problem was the G5 when it munched it's transmission. That little F-up was entirely my fault. So no, you are not an aberration. They are good bikes, and if kept reasonably maintained, they can go the distance. As Pete Roper calls them 'stone-ax simple'. It's tough to break a stoned ax. J

It's time for my 1000'th post. Is that a kilopost, or just a cry out for help? Al? Al? You listening? J

connecting the ports or not isn't going to make much difference. Just don't leave 'em open Because it doesn't address the root problem, and you'll most likely get it set worse than when you started. Yes. very much so. 3-3.8K is the worst. Most people check it at the throttle body. See here: http://www.guzzitech.com/EVTuneup-Jeff_B.html http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3228 http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=3299 and associated links. Yes, you should be able to. Most people have switched to using a 'TwinMax' or similar. I would also advocate that because it lessens the potential for a mercury spill. You can make a $2 manometer from water if you want also. I don't know how well they work. I cannot address the 'adjustable fuel injection module' since I dont have one, but I've heard nothing but good things about them. J

It should be pretty easy to swap out the headlight on a Sport- it's just a standard 8" (std. auto size...I could be wrong with the measurement). Dunno about the Le Mans, but it can't be that hard. One should be able to swap out the entire bucket assembly and use whatever headlight and shell works best. I've been told (but I don't know for a fact) that the Ducati Monster headlight shell has a cutout on the right side which is perfect for the speedo cable routing. J

What is done about VIN numbers? It doesn't look like the case has a VIN stamped on it. Do they transfer the old VIN, or give you a new one, or just leave it without a number? I have a replacement case Eldo engine that has no number on it. It's kind of weird. J

Is that electrical tape wrapped around the threads and the head? Interesting solution! I'm a little concerned that it might not be 'beefy' enough for the job, though J

I realize this may be somewhat blasphemous, but try out a sheepskin. I used to think they were ridiculous, but now I use one for long rides, along with a Rich Maund seat, and I've stayed in the saddle for upwards of 12 hours. Sheepskins are cooler, they lift you up about 1/2" (1.3 cm) and keep you from sliding around. Downside- it's harder to slide sideways off the bike for hard cornering. I have one in black, so it doesn't look so bad. Baaa J

Hmmm, you need a control experiment. Were there any Subaru's parked nearby?