jrt

Frank's kind of a luddite when it comes to computers. He might not even KNOW about this sight. I guess you could send him an email.... You're right though- these do look a little too low. But the craftsmanship is excellent. And remember, Frank lives in Kansas. Loooonnnng straaaaiiiigggghttt roads. Jason

brake side. Now, I'd love to have a set up like this but I'm cheap. Maybe my bike will live at my Father-in-law's for the next winter.

I think an engineered set of pegs/shifter/brake would be prohibitively expensive but it would be nice. Here's the Frank Wedge solution:

Well, the recent discussion on evoluzione footpeg relocation coupled to the fact that I'm driving to Maine in a couple weeks prompted me to re-install the footpeg relocation setup. I didn't like the far reach for the shifter, so this is Version 1 for relocating it. It's a piece of 5/16 all thread bolted on the shift lever and bent to an appropriate angle. A piece of fuel hose covers it. It ain't purty, but it works ok. Next version, I'll drop it down some (maybe weld a plate or something). It's better, but not great. No laughing at me or I'll sulk. cheers, Jason

Good Lord those are big bags. You could raise a family inside there. I like the way you've mounted them up as close in as possible- one of these days (ya' right) I'm going to do the same with the technos that I have. Looks good! J

You sure it's not carbide they're using? Carbide reacts with water to for acetylene, HCCH, the stuff that welders use. It was also used in early mining lamps. I made some carbide bombs in my day, but never that big. Hmmmmmm (btw, I thought sodium was natrium in most european languages) J

I can't have a clock on my bike...I'd just look at it...every 25 seconds...over and over...

Let's see if I can stay on topic. Now, you didn't hear this from me...but if you encase your sodium is something like a coffee can (with holes in to allow water in), then you can DELAY the TIME before which it...uh...goes off. The trick is to be able to collect the hydrogen produced. You also want the sodium to splinter a bit- those little beads that jump off are hot, and ignite the hydrogen. Caution though- the products of the reaction (2Na + 2H2O--> H2 + 2NaOH) are quite reactive themselves- hydrogen (covered that) and sodium hydroxide, which will burn you pretty good. So don't get any liquid on ya' when it goes off like a TIME bomb. OK, that last sentance was gratuitous.

I just called and ordered one (what the heck). I hope I never use it, but it's a good backup to have. When I called, the lady on the phone responded- 'Oh, another one of those. You want one or two?' LOL And she has a lovely southern accent. But here's the webpage: http://cannonracecraft.com/catalog/product...51ca1e98d9bb5ed Whoever came up with this company- THANKS!

Here's a top view of the clamp mounted on the triple clamp. As I said above, I used a stock MG piece, but I don't think I would if I were to do it again. There's nothing to be gained by having this big flat plate.

Here's the parts layout. You have to drill the bosses out in your upper triple clamp (arrow denotes hole that I drilled).

Sure. Here's the bars mounted on my bike:

Clever boy. Alright- you're old enough to take care of yourself. careful with your eyeballs, though.

I don't think that's necessarily true. The only part that won't bolt in are the two stays on the rear fender. Cut those off, and weld rods that go up to the - I dunno- the turn signal bracket I guess. I bought a used rear fender, and I'm going to try and fab something up, because I cannot loose the bags, but I do want to bob the rear end. that sounds like something I could be arrested for J

I'm callin' the cops. Freaking teenagers. Just funnin ya' Have a good ride Antonio!

But if you decide to try it, just use a 1/2 Amp fuse or so. Cool- I'll send a note to Dan thanking him for his message. J

Where the hell did you get magnesium? And don't look at if fer chrissake- the flame spews out gobs of UV light (which will damage your retina). Oy vey.

My concern is for handling. When you load it up, that's an awful lot of weight behind the rear axel. Let us know how the front end feels after you ride it a bit. Looks like a real nice job! Cheers, Jason

And I got this note off the MG list on Yahoo. Dan Prunske is the relay man. So...does your wrong part have a diode? (symbol looks like an arrow --> but the arrowhead is |> filled

Ahhh! IT STINGS! MAKE IT STOP!

Yep, they will get water in them and short out....or often times they'll just short out. It's rare that the oil pump fails. However- There have been cases where it has. Arbi's green V11 sport comes to mind. I had guessed it was just the sensor, but fortunately he didn't believe me or anybody else who suggested that. I ate crow that day. Bottom line- it's not worth the risk- check your oil pressure if the light comes on. J

Don't put a 15A fuse in. Bad, bad, bad idea. From your description, it sounds like an intermittant short rather than a dead short. Sorry, that's an even worse to find. There is no magic bullet to tracing down a fault. It just takes patience and organization. The first step is to take the tank and seat and headlight off, and look for the obvious- a dangling wire or wires that may have overheated (if you can tell). Then if you don't see anything suspicious, check the circuit that is causing the fault. If your ignition fuse is burning out, then you should start looking in that circuit. Print out a copy of Carl's wiring diagram and follow that. A question for anyone who knows (I don't have a diagram in front of me)- from memory, the starter circuit contains the starter, headlight, and ECU relays. Could one of those have internally shorted out? Per grounding your DVM- just use the battery terminal and you'll be fine. The engine fins work pretty well too, but you need a fairly strong alligator clip. Good luck! Think of it as a puzzle rather than a chore. You wouldn't believe how much I learned about wiring from a POS Honda that I once owned. cheers, Jason

Don't look at me- I don't eat mammals.

Hi Ratchet, If you're not getting juice to anything, then the problem is pretty high up. I would initially suspect the ignition switch. Trace the wiring to the switch, then check to see if you are getting 12V to anything past the switch. I would not suspect the kill switch or the sidestand switch. J

I had the rear main seal replaced on my sport- it had leaked and contaminated the clutch, then the clutch slipped much like what you describe. It wasn't even enough of a leak to weep out the drain. If the bike is under warranty, have this checked. To decontaminate the clutch, plug up the drain hole, then spray a metric buttload of brake cleaner into the inspection hole and let it get all over the clutch (turn the motor over a couple times). Drain, then put the front wheel on a chock, put the bike in first, and burn a little off the clutch. It's not a long-term fix, but it does work. Good luck, Jason