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Poifect... Thanks Docc!

OK by me. Jason

He has it well thought-out....with 2pi^2 over the divisor of the circumfrence of the tube diameter and the inverse of the pump pressure taken below the cube root of the dangling participle equals..

Easy Pete! Take your meds Nick, you probably should go the route of replacing it yourself. If the local 'wotta lotta crap' auto store doesn't carry exactly what you want, then look at mcmaster carr. They'll have it in five different rubber materials and 3 colors They rock. When I first read the post headline, the old Captain Beefheart tune popped into my head...hard, dark, hard rubber wheels.... Cheers, Jason

I used a dremel tool to (slowly and carefully) grind down the rubber insert until it would fit. Use the wood drum sander attachement and you can replace the drum after you're done. Cheers, Jason

Rich Maund seat handlebars R90S fairing tank bag is wonderful techno bags are ok karma infusion is absolutely required The aftermarket pipes and K&N's are more for principle than actual performance gains. I don't have a PCIII and mine runs just fine. I'll probably get one someday, though. J

The link takes you to: http://www.firestartergarage.it Check out their customs. This one looks comfy.

Ah, here we go- I'm as bad as Al- I have a picture of everything. Like I said- this was my first design for bar risers, and they didn't work well because they were too big around the outside dimensions. I recall that they fouled other bits in the cockpit. cheers, Jason

Also, keep in mind that this is a commercial offering. Mike Haven needs to make a buck or two to stay afloat. Sure, if you're handy with a mill, then making a set of the add-on risers is not too difficult. About a year before the MPH offering, I made a much clunkier, less attractive set of add-on risers as my 'first design' but ended up giving them away (they didn't work for the recipient either ). I found drilling the triple clamp and mounting up proper bars to be more pleasing to me. I'm not advocating one or the other- it's up to the individual to decide what will work on their own bike. As far as prices go, I guess it's what the market bears, right? I dunno. It seems like all these add-ons (bars, footpegs, accessory doo dads) are about 3-400 dollars US. It's just some thoughts, and I'm not even sure they are mine after reading it over. Maybe this is just my extemporaneous stream of unconciousness. Cheers, Jason

J

I thought that the only the frame serial number was on most titles. Am I mistaken? J

Al, maybe it's just the angle, but it looks like your horns are pointed into the fairing and most of the noise would be directed back at you. Wouldn't that just counteract having loud horns? J

Without any other info, it does sound like a vacuum (tank suck territory). Try removing the tipover valve o-ring (grommet?) just under the gas cap. You can remove it without any damage and you can put it back if you want. I bet you'll never put it back. Cheers, Jason

Ian, I don't want to imply you're a sucker- I'm aghast that Guzzi would charge this much. You have a legitimate concern about warranty, and you know the OEM part will work...correctly. And you've never seen some of my soldering jobs OK, ok, no leaks in my house....yet. You may want to look into how long before you get the part, though. Cheers, Jason

The problem with the rocker covers, and some other pieces, is not so much that it's porous, but it also contains non-aluminum contaminants and that screws up the anodizing proceedure. If you're going to anodize and you want a nice smooth surface, then the substrate HAS to be really, really clean and REALLY REALLY smooth. Anodizing basically magnifies any defects, scratches, holes, etc. When a part is anodized, all that's happening is that a layer (a few thousand's of an inch thick) of aluminum oxide is grown on the surface of the aluminum. That means the part grows too by the way. Take that into account if it's a tolerance fit. The oxide is porous, so right after anodizing, you soak the part in a dye. The dye migrates into the pores, and the part takes on the color. Then you 'seal' the aluminum surface- warm water does a fine job of this, or steam works well too. Then the dye is trapped in the pores, the surface is covered with aluminum oxide (super hard) and hopefully it looks good. The few pieces I've anodized have turned out great, but it's all about surface prep. Porous aluminum would look pockmarked or blotchy when anodized. Low purity aluminum won't anodize at all. The impurities will be oxidized rather than the aluminum. One might be able to desmut the aluminum beforehand, but I havent had a chance to ever try this. I'm still looking for a set (or one) valve cover to experiment on. Need not be in good shape, could be broken, cracked, whatever. Cheers, Jason

92 bucks??!?!? for a tube?!??!? I'd be talking to a machinist or a plumber. C'mon. I'ts a Tuuube Just my opinion.

Sorry, I couldn't help myself. I do have one, and it is sitting in an engine block in my basement, but that's as technical as I can get for the moment. Of course, that bike will never see a dyno... Cheers, Jason

Gotcha. I have been reading your posts- I find them interesting- but I guess I missed that the 1100 frame needed modifying. OK, OK Al. Here's my contribution. I have a 620x09 cam in my basement (destined for my tonti frame). It weighs virtually the same amount as the stock cam. That's all I'm willing to say about it. Cheers, Jason

Density of lead: 11.86 g/cm3 Density of Iron: 7.86 g/cm3 You will lose a lot of weight per volume, so SS won't work as well. I imagine damping has more to do with weight than with hardness. J

I've lusted after one of those outsider filters forever, but I'm to damn cheap to buy one. I'm not like Pete. I don't like to drop the pan- I find it a pan in the ass. That's just me. Cheap. So I still drop the pan. So anyway.. in 20 years of riding MG, I've never heard of an outsider oil fiter getting punctured. I think they have a little plate to protect then now in any event. Ian, I don't know this for a fact, cause I don't have my bike in front of me, but in the manual, it looks like you can drop that tube out pretty easily. If parts are not available, then take it to a plumber and ask them to solder a new one (proper diameter of course) into place. Piece of cake. Heck, maybe you could take this opportunity to move the oil pickup to a more reasonable location. Cheers, Jason

How does the song go? boredboredboredboredboredboredbored This is what happens when I'm writing grant proposals. I'm trying to spend some of ya'lls hard-earned cash. Al- Good idea to wear gloves (light latex gloves are available at beauty-supply stores). That'll keep the silicon off your fingers. Don't sweat the lead dust. Lead is very inert as an elemental solid (I would guess the stinging would be from the ammonia in the silicon). Anyhow, it'll be eliminated the next time you go to the bathroom. Now, organic-lead compounds...those are a different (nasty) beast altogether. Think tetraethyllead. It's real easy to absorb it in through the lungs and then it goes straight to fatty tissue. Did you know nerves and brain tissue are real fatty? twitch...twitch....

No prob. PM me if you have questions. Oh, make sure you have good ventilation! J

Al, it doesn't surprise my that you have a picture of the tube! You da' man. J

00 buck is 0.34 inch. #9 shot is 0.080 " and would be more like handling grains of sand ( awkward). Tthe 1/4 " ball I used is the equivalent of no. 4 buck (0.24") or #3 buck ( 0.25"). Jason, I couldn't figure out , what is "25#" shot? Uh, sorry- I didn't see this until today. I had meant 25 pounds of shot. I don't recall the size #, but it was the smallest I could find- not 'grain of sand' small, but probably the #3 or #4 that you mention. All, I like the idea of embedding the shot into a silicon matrix. Clever. Cheers, Jason

Callithrix, I do some home anodizing. It's really not too bad, but you need to invest in some equipment and some chemicals. Got a University near you? It'll help. You can buy chemicals from Caswell: http://www.caswellplating.com/ I'd recommend buying the metal-based dyes rather than using organic ones (like RIT, from a grocery store) because the organic ones will fade with time and heat. This fellow wrote up a short how-to on anodizing: http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize99.html Twelve bucks for a booklet. I bought it, and it is helpful. The info is moslty out on the web, but shoot- 12 bucks (mmm, just noticed- new edition- $17). I like to support the home-craftsman, so I bought two and gave one to our machinist here at work. I gotta say, it is pretty darn cool to take a soft aluminum part and turn it into a super-hard aluminum part. I haven't done any motorcycle parts yet, but if someone wants to send me a valve cover, I would try it for them. Do NOT send me your only good valve covers. I would practice on a busted one first. Frankly, I don't hold much hope for it working since not only are the castings porous, but they contain a lot of impurities and that is what really mucks up the anodizing process. It's a matter of competing electrochemical processes. Cheers, Jason