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That just prolongs the enjoyment, David. Cheers, Jason

Right on what the above folks mentioned. Another quick addition- the moly (MoS2) does break down with time/temperature/pressure so it's lifetime in an engine environment is short. Some engine oils nowadays (some exxon varients) have an additive that is a chemical that breaks down (with heat, etc) into MoS2. So, put it in the engine and it continually produces the moly that is continually breaking down. Clever strategy, eh? I run a bit of moly in *all* my gearboxes/rear drives (eldo/V11/etc) and in the engine of my lawnmower. I refuse to change the oil in that POS, but it just won't die. Cheers, Jason

Uh, now I'm confused. I can't read the legend on the graph- are the red/green lines pre-porting, and the blue lines post-port throughput? And is there a line for 'best stock v11'? cheers, Jason

Unfortunately, I would suggest you do trash it. I found that the light pattern wasn't very good after the reflector fell off mine (I also had it replaced under warranty). The beam just wasn't focused very well. Of course, the reflector was just lying in the housing- that may have had something to do with it. Could you go for an entirely different headlamp? cheers, jason

A centerstand would be real helpful to those of us who go motorcycle camping. I hate loading up a bike that's leaned way over. And the MG OEM shopstand strapped to my back really starts to hurt after awhile. Cheers, Jason

Maybe to Moto Guzzi, but to Dave, Dan and Carl. Way to go! J

Very smooth Doc, very smooth. I now run sewing machine oil in my bike. The whale blubber I had been using was just too heavy. Cap'n, I run my vent down the frame, behind the starter (holds it in place) and vents to atmosphere. I've yet to notice any drips. The temp sensor is just zipped to the frame- like this: cheers, Jason

Louder? Yes. More power? I'll let Rich and others answer that- I dropped the airbox all together. I haven't heard of anyone complaining about such a mod (do a search for 'pods vs airbox lid' or something along those lines. That's been a continuing discussion for something like a year now. Might I suggest making a flange to replace the lid, rather than cutting the lid up? That way, if you don't like it, you can go back. If you cut a hole in the airbox lid, it's a one-way trip. Again, Rich has done this and could send you the piece or the measurements. FBF sells a box-top as well. Probably others- depends how cheap, eh frugal, you are. Cheers, Jason

Bill, I don't know if the plastic is available at shops- I got the whole kaboodle from a beemer shop. It blocks wind pretty effectively from my neck down. My head is still exposed, but it's pretty clean air. You don't want to sit up at 90+ mph for extended periods, but I'm pretty comfy at 75. I got a replacement shield from Gustaffson- 4 inches higher than stock. I installed it and hated it. It felt real turbulent around my head. I promised to send it to Joe, but I've been slow, and now it sounds like he doesn't need it. Joe, you still want it? I wonder if a flipup 'wing' on the trailing edge of the screen would work to kick the wind over one's head (I'm thinking like the 'rabid transit' fairings). Cheers, Jason

www.nordost.com or if you like homebrew: http://www.geocities.com/rjm003.geo/rjmaudio/spk.html I make all my own interconnects and speaker cable nowadays. Cheap. Effective. The flat cable can be made from computer data wire. Works fine, but it's a mess getting a linear array of wires to go into a round connector. Cheers, Jason

Self advertising- Joe C. that's a nice condensation of the various choices- advantages and drawbacks. Cheers, Jason

Why's that Jaap? You like purple wine? J

You da' man, Al. J

Nah, cables don't do nuthin' for me. But I do have the cryo-treated organic quantum filtered resonance damping adherence mat for overtone suppression and dielectric filter passivation. That gives a blacker background with extended dynamic range in the triode-based feedback circuit for enhanced signal to nose- I mean noise. And its purple too. J

That does sound like a relay problem. I had the same thing happen...in the dealer parking lot right after the 600 mile service I got all new relays in about 30 seconds. If wriggling them doesn't help, then swap them one for one (first and last, second and last, third and last, etc) to test if one of them has died. Cheers, Jason

Damn, that's good research. But how did you come to the conclusion that it's *that* particular pump? Cheers, Jason

I like to build stereo equipment- amps/preamps/whatnot. The amount of BS that people push on those forums is unbelievable. Over there, its the debate between oxygen-free copper wire and '5 nines' silver. Which one gives better base or more accurate vocal reproduction. A lot of the same snake oil (well put earlier) is purported here, I'm afraid. Not as bad though- we're not as gullible I hope. A spark plug wire is a spark plug wire- as long as it's well made with good connections and decent wire and a supple insulator. Maybe it just rubs me wrong that the wire is 'superconductor'. If you have 'superconducting' wire at room temp (never mind over a hot engine), then buddy I'll make us a mint. I know- it's a a marketing gimmick. I'm sure they are fine wires- I honestly never heard of them before, so I won't disparage them. But before you buy them- check the angles on the boots- they are obtuse, not 90^o like stock. I do like the fact that the guy (or gal) lives in Bryan, TX. My grandparents lived there, and my grandfather was the one who got me into motorcycles. Cheers, Jason I'll go have my coffee now, and crawl back under my rock.

I have an '01 sport and it's stable like a rock- I backed the steering damper off in the first week I had the bike. I've just never needed it. The handling did improve marginally when I softened the front and rear suspension (from stock). Cheers, Jason

OK, so that makes sense to me. I'm sure I don't ride hard enough that I would 'need' solid lifters, but I'm not sure what I would do if I had them. Just go out and poke the bike occasionally I guess. I'm too used to solid lifters to know any other way. I've been conditioned. Cheers, Jason

Hmm, I had just suggested the usual suspects- MGCycle/MGClassics/Harpers/MPH (Texas), but hadn't thought about the wider tire. Did MG widen the rear tire again? I know it was widened between '01 and '02, but was a different tire fit in '03? Cheers, Jason

How are your tires? If you drive in long straights, they might be developing a square profile- this gives rise to some remarkably poor handling. Or they might be cupping or some other poor wear pattern. Can't address the suspension changes- sorry. Cheers, Jason

Sounds like vapor lock. Check the heat sheilding under the tank to see that it's not falling down (mine was). The real solution is to re-position your fuel pump and fuel lines so they don't heat up as much. A lot of people have had this problem, so it seems. Check for vacuum at the tank also. When it stalls, open the gas tank. If it sucks air, then remove the o-ring under the tank. Look for a thread on 'tank suck' for a full explanation. cheers, Jason

What's the advantage of the old style (manual adjust) over hydraulic valves? Speed of action/weight/or consistency in opening? And I can't imagine that the big Breva doesn't have hydraulic valves. That's going to be a requirement from their target audience. Of course, I haven't read anything about that either. cheers, Jason

Well, it'll probably be ok. As Subash points out, you could put a graphic under the contact points- I was thinking even one of those round paper stickies (like a price tag) would work. They're slick also but would wear through quickly. Or, like me, just not worry about it. So Chris, will I see you at next years Illinois rally or Iowa Rally? cheers, Jason

Thanks guys, My 'plate with gearing' is being obdurate- I don't want to bugger up the rim with screwdrivers by levering on it. Since the hub is also pretty well stuck in there, I'll press it out and grease it too. cheers, Jason