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I've used Hylomar myself, but always been reluctant to put too much on. Anyone know what happens to excess Hylomar getting into the sump. Does it dissolve, -or wander into all the precious oil tunnels... Hylomar is not oil soluble, so it doesn't dissolve. However, it is also non-hardening, so if you only have a little squish out, then it shouldn't clog anything. I love the stuff- best sealant I've used for many applications. Just use a very thin film. My brother favored some teflon gasket sealant some 20 years ago. He rebuilt a toyota engine, using teflon sealant liberally on various gaskets. 1000 miles later (1600 km) he rebuilt the motor again because teflon bits got stuck in the head's oil galleys. Oops.

You could always not buy him a beer... Better yet, buy one and drink it for him. Or I'll have one for you and save everyone the trouble.

Ahh, a true Guzzi Guy. The true Guzzista braids them from his own chest hair. Dang! I have too much American Indian blood, no body hair to speak of.. I guess I'll never qualify. Depends. Do you grow hair in, um, any other place?

Wow- saw the filter and the first thing that sprang to mind was one of those old "Alien" movies. If you are going to add wiring, add a ground wire from the headlight (or the triple trees) to the engine. In stock form, the headlight ground runs through the steering head bearings (and all that grease). I believe original credit goes to Gary Cheek who first pointed this out.

Right. I'm not saying it is gospel, just what I was told. I'm not sure even I entirely believe it. I'd like to do a study on it (and I change enough filters to where I should). I had a ducati filter stick like crazy last year. Never had a problem with a Guzzi filter. So, maybe it's the seal material?

I was told to use old oil. New oil will cause the gasket to stick.

Awww, I have a TDI. It's a sweet little car. I'd love to see this engine in a motorcycle. 0-60 in 'whenever'.

Aye, but which part?

What's wrong about pressing flowers?

And heating it won't damage the rubber. There is a lot of aluminum wheel to suck the heat out, so I doubt much even melts the locktite. Aluminum is a very efficient heat conductor.

It depends on the cost/effort ratio, but this is a pretty simple part. You could buy some heim joints from, say, McMaster-Carr and fit them to an aluminum spacer. Bob's yer uncle. Done. I doubt you need rubber in there- after all you have a cush drive. I'm not certain, and I'm not an engineer, so take my opinion with a grain of salt.

That's cool! Say Hi to Bones for me, the lucky devil!

My other suggestion is to check all electrical connections and rubber hoses twice. As you crab the frame, run your hand through the 'center' space that you are creating to make sure you've disconnected all the connecting bits. Maybe have a 2X4 piece of wood on hand in case you have to block something up. Also, if you drip oil, then aluminum foil makes a handy, disposable, readily-formable funnel. Ask me how I know.......

I think what Hubert is saying is to listen to the pitch of the electric fuel pump. It will be lower pitch when it is pushing liquid fuel, but run faster and at a higher pitch when it is pushing vapor. Leave the key in the on position, then turn the kill switch on the handlebar off. Turing the kill switch back on turns the pump on. The pump turns on (cycles for 2 seconds). Do that a couple of times.

Thanks Roy. I always enjoy reading your posts; they are a good combo of common sense and the scientific method.

Nice!

Condolences. Glad Harry (or anyone) wasn't hurt.

Yeah, it's sounding like friction plates now. That's what my Eldo did when the rivets came apart. Mine had the added enjoyment of a few random slip then engage episodes, so it felt like it was stuttering (and hammering the transmission). And I was 500 or so miles from home.

Great- I think... OK, well, I don't know if it can be "fixed", but at least it can be mitigated pretty well. Someone on this forum (sorry, I forgot whom) sent me a piece of insulated pipe from some aerospace application. Rubber on the outside, fiberglass inside. Slip it over the fuel intake and it's supposed to fix the problem. I haven't tried it yet, but you might be able to get the stuff from McMaster-Carr. Look for about 1/2" internal diameter. I'm working on (questionable) memory here, so you probably should measure the OD of your intake. I'm glad it's nothing major. Just a PIA.

vapor lock? It was a common problem on some early models. Let it sit until completely cool, then try to restart.

Ah, I was reading it as if he pulled the clutch in but it didn't work- i.e. the clutch was always engaged.

I see you've found the official repair manual. You should have no problems henceforth!

Make sure she is stable side-to side while you disassemble. Also, I would start by removing the exhaust system (put some neversieze on the exhaust flange studs). Grease and clean the driveshaft ujoints while you have them accessible, but still put a piece of cardboard around them when you put it back together (they fling grease out....) You could grease the cush drive also- heat the bolts holding the wheel flange before trying to remove them; they have locktite on them and the bolts are made of an extra-soft alloy, something between butter and wet clay.

I'd just bleed the clutch first- sounds like you don't have any hydraulics. It might be air in the line, or it might be that the clutch master or slave isn't functioning properly. If the plates disintegrated, you would definitely know- lots of vibration and the clutch gets snatchy before it finally goes. Also, I've never had a clutch just disappear like that. They've always given me lots of warning. Loss of pressure in the hydraulic action sounds most likely to me. However, if your throwout bearing seized up, then you might have been grinding your clutch rod down? If that were the case, I think you would feel it again, because the clutch disengagement point would have moved on the lever pull. Good luck!

ooh, I found a button! Seriously, Keith- I know some of them go pretty well. As I said, I have a G5/SP/Eldo and the like. Not known for blistering performance...but they won't cause blisters either. A decent roundfin IS a happy thing.