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Now's the time to post your 'he's grounded' comic strip Glad to hear the car wasn't too damaged. I had a guy put diesel in our gasoline-powered tractor once. It doesn't run so well. "Prat" seems appropriate.

It's a weird mix of years. The engine actually looks like a convert (Pete can correct me here if I'm wrong). Take a look at the casting at the top of the timing chest- hydraulic pump? But then it's mated up to a four speed (smooth case) transmission and the early style rear 'pumpkin' drive. Tranny and rear drive are circa 1970/71. Not to say it won't all work together- it will mate up just fine. Just an odd hodge-podge bodge of a drive train.

Well, I'm blind- my apologies- when I read "spring" and "fork", I did not distinguish them in my mind. Reading Dlaing's post I see it's clear you're talking rear and front. I'm educated, not necessarily smart. Ratchet- I'm not saying it's a complete stab in the dark, but since I haven't had a chance to set mine up yet, it still seems a bit 'waffley' (if that's a word). I'm prolly going to follow your set up as close as I can, having let you do all the trials. I weigh about 180, if I recall that's not too much heavier than you are.

It's like deja vu all over again.... 1) and 3) yes, but it will not yield optimum results. You will compress the spring- effectively reducing the amount of travel (compression especially) that the fork has. It's better to get a properly wound spring for your weight. However, changing the spacer is very inexpensive and my get you the results you want. 2) and 4) The spring rate is calculated by the factory that produces the spring as far as I can tell. The rate you want depends on your weight and your riding style. How much do you weigh? How do you want to ride (street or track? loaded with gear or light?) Where to get one is a matter of some debate- I have a Wilbers spring that I have yet to install on my bike. I'm not sure they will fit later model forks. There are a few other brands mentioned in this thread. If you have a local speed shop that can reliably rebuild shocks, then you have the valving adjusted more to your satisfaction. I'm sorry I'm weaving around a direct answer, but I've come to the conclusion that there are no direct answers for these questions- mostly trial and error.

right on! Just in time for winter, lol. Glad you got it running!

Niiice. I use Klipschorns

That's a good American Whisky, Ben. I finished off my Talisker with my brother in law last night- indeed, it was a good Christmas. I got flying lessons....look out below! Happy Boxing day and Happy New Year!

Do you really need a return line? The older bikes didn't have one- I thought they returned the vapor through the pushrod tunnels.

That plug is much darker than mine, which are light tan and little or no blackening. The fuel may be going out the exhast pipe without being burnt. The whole system is pretty hot, so the fuel never condenses. Do you have access to a hydrocarbon tester? I think what is meant by rolling resistance is - put the bike in neutral and push it. If the brakes are binding, then you will feel resistance. I think going after the sensors is a good idea. Good luck with it.

Well, I'll let others more knowledgeable than I am address how to measure the fuel pressure. I'd just put a "Tee" on the line and measure it that way. Give me a day or so to look at the throttle bodies and see if I can figure anything out.... Alex, by benzine, you mean gasoline or petrol, right?

Right on! Enjoy your present, Mike!

Just make sure they have the page numbers.

Is the fuel pressurized behing the throttle screw? My guesses would be one of two possibilities- the system is overpressurized, or the seal is no good. First, I would check the fuel pressure. Then, can you change out the seal? I assume it's an o-ring, but I don't know.

Yesterday. Yeah, yeah, I'm not on my Guzzi. But then- I woudn't do this to my Guzzi.

Have you looked at the plugs?

Oh, hey now- that's just rude. Or are you talking about the particulates?

Stop by Belfast's place. I hear he has a prescription. oh, filters....sorry...nevermind.

That's the stuff!

Having done exactly one track day I can speak from a paucity of experience (not that it would ever slow me down). The advantage on a track is that you don't have to worry about oncoming traffic, gravel, so you can focus on the corner, or the braking or whatever it is. Tracks are small, so you can reinforce that practice repetitively. That's what improves road riding. You can't directly translate track racing to road, but there are benefits.

Um, what kind of oil do you use on your K&N's? Dino or Synthetic? Inquiring minds want to know...

Drive it!!! And You'll dig this bike! EDIT: I just looked at my post and I'm not advocating drinking and driving.....it's more of a generic toast.

That's nasty. Some of these sound an awful lot like Aggie jokes (Texas A&M= Aggies). You heard about the tragedy that happened on the A&M campus? It was awful, the library burnt down. They lost everything...... both books.... one of wasn't even colored in yet.

Rightous! Fond memories, indeed. Freakin' 2 foot of snow up here.

Shoot. Sorry.