jrt

I like what they did with the Cali. Looks like the old California III with the buddy seat. They finally went back to some hardbags that have a decent shape, too. AND if I'm not mistaken- it looks like there is a support rod running under the bags. Goodbyyyee 10 pound load limits. Helloooo six weeks worth of firewood, wet clothes, beer, and depleted uranium shavings packed into those things. I dig the tail light as well. The Norge is a little hard to look at now, but that's because it is such a departure from the 'traditional' Guzzi. I think it will grow on some people. It's the way of the future and I wish Guzzi the best of luck and success with the newer models. The Fridge will be a great touring machine, I'd wager.

The original GT Norge (from: http://www.mgcn.nl/dameijer/ ) Nice looking bike in my opinion. Doh, AdamofKC beat me... As Emily Littella used to say- Never mind.

The forks are from a Gambalunga, so that's my guess. Later model- 50 or 51?

You presume too much.

Cue swelling music....

that too. The centerline paint is a good theory- that stuff is very slick. Still, I would very carefully look over adjustable parts like tires, reaction rod, etc. How's the head bearing? Have you checked the alignment of the tires? The swingarm may need to be adjusted. Check your shock for play- or worse, maybe it's cracked like Martin's was.

It's the Scura effect.

Martin, check your rear rotor for scoring- it looks like you had metal-on-metal contact.

Hey, I got in a 30 mile ride this morning. 20 of them were off road.

You can also download the google map widget Awww, dang, I just looked and the PARC map viewer is no longer available. It was basically the same idea as google maps, but first put on the web in 1993 or so.

What kind of displacement limitations do you have for insurance or licensing purposes? I'd vote for a used 125-250cc enduro. They're tall, light, bulletproof, easy to ride and fit your supermoto description.

BTW- those are gorgeous bikes!!!!

To further expound on it- the "loop" frame was designed by Carcano- the loop refers to the looping of the frame around the engine. - as an aside- to pull the motor from loopframe, you need to wiggle it out from between the frame rails. The Tonti frame was designed by Lino Tonti, it doesn't have any pet names that I know of. It is a much stiffer frame and the rails that run along the bottom of the motor can be unbolted. So in this case, to remove the motor, just unbolt the lower frames and walk the upper frame forward and away on the front tire. I used to be able to remove the motor in my G5 within 2 hours and I'm not even very fast.

Oh, yeah.. That'd be great fun.

Mike, have you considered coating the motor with silica? I'm not sure how hard it is (it's glass, of course) but they sure look nice when they're done. Agreed with respect to the aluminum oxide- but have the materials changed much for the big block castings over the years? I've got a '70s block and an '80s block that are in great shape despite never having been painted. Are the modern engine blocks made of a different alloy? Whoops, you already answered this- I should read more carefully. Also- just a warning about sandblasting- I have read of several cases where a case was sandblasted, the motor put together, and it promptly toasted the main bearings because there was sand in the oil. Some of the sand particles are very, very small and hard to get out of the oil galleyways. I'm not saying it can't be done- but do follow up on cleaning out the passageways.

Dude- you gotta post a bigger picture!! Looks like you've modified the bike a bit; we need to see it in glorious detail.

Wear a high visibility *black* vest. Bob's your uncle.

It could just be 'that time' in the V11's life. A couple years after hitting a market, any brand bike will start to show up on the used resale lists. This sounds like a good thing for you, if you are in the market for a used V11.

It's open-book, so don't sweat it. Alex-

Picture of the Agostini Luggage rack here. Here's another from Phil/Tx The one above (Regguzzi's) looks to be a Ventura system, which I have. Ugly as sin, but but very functional.

Did the bolts shear off in the crank? Is that why the main bearing is off?

Sorry- I'll give you some more, athough others will chime in too. If all you need is a healthy spark, a headlamp and a horn, then, IMO, the stock alternator is more than enough. The spark is delivered by the coils which are a transformer, of course. More voltage to the coils translates to more voltage (and 'better' spark) at the plug (within reason, of course). A properly charging system will provide the maximum safe and steady voltage to the coils necessary for a proper spark. You cannot get around Ohm's law- V=IR. If you wire in a bunch of silly accessories, they draw power. As they draw power, the available amperage from the alternator drops. Consider R to be all the resistive power-consuming parts like a light or a horn. I is fixed by your alternator, and V drops from the max allowed by the voltage regulator down to whatever it happens to be. That is- as R goes up, V goes down, as power consumption goes up- the available volts go down. The battery acts like a power buffer (providing I for a short time), but it is limited. After that- the battery runs down, the alternator is still putting out max amps but if they aren't enough then voltage to everything drops. At that point, it's a losing battle. The battery HAS to have above 12.6 V (~14 V for new gel batteries) to recharge. 11.5 V at 100 amps wont recharge your battery. 14.2 V at 0.2 A will. So- you need both Volts and Amps to get the job done. I need lots of both, since I want to run a cooler. You probably don't since you have more modest requirements. Your bike will corner better, as well.

Sigh- there went 45 minutes of my life. These little post-war two strokes are damn hard to find. I have an interesting one to post later, though, muhahahaha