jrt

Sorry, friend. It's an 'engine-out' job if you have to access the clutch plate(s). Fortunately, that's pretty easy on these machines. um, do you have the original clutch? Is that one of the models with the grenading flywheel? I don't want to be alarmist, but I dont recall off hand.

@ FerGuzzi- put a magnet on the flywheel. That will definitively tell you if it is steel or not. I have RAM clutch in my Eldorado- on it, there was no 'center button' that could be replaced. the depression for the clutch pushrod was molded into the casting. It was relatively easy to fit up, and everything works just fine with it (touch wood). Of course, it's an Eldo- all of 40ish horsepower- so I doubt I have overtaxed it. And the RAM clutch came with a special replacement inner body that was shorter than the standard Guzzi part.

You can download the manual from the Yahoo V11 group: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/v11manuals/ KiwiRoy has posted several very helpful schematics recently. 4. If I recall, there were some discussions of changing out the indicator lights to LEDs. Not sure what came of it- I'd try a search.

Yes, I have seen someone take tires that far. Unfortunately, it blew out on a corner and the passenger, who was a very dear friend of mine, was killed in the resulting accident. I'm pretty inflexible about tires nowadays. If they are worn- replace them. Tires are cheap, comparatively.

Sorry for the bad news, but it's true. On the bright side, you'll be a lot happier with a better shock (I hope!). Also, you'll go a lot faster, since your wallet won't be so heavy.

Top notch job there, Jaap! Congratulations and well done!

How much beer does that trophy hold? Congrats to all who played.

There's a few Guzzi people, but I don't know of any V11 Sport folks (off the top of my head). You might contact EP&F Guzzi in Prescott? They might know of some folks. Or contact the Arizona MGNOC rep. He might know...and would probably go riding...

Ryan, it's not difficult to learn circuit wiring- it is certainly not voodoo or magic. electrons flow following certain rules. You can figure this out; there are some real talented folks on this website who can provide a lot of help (Roy and Henry, I'm looking at you).

I'm sorry about that- are you ok?

Mostly- it sounds better. Theoretically, you get more air through the intake because the snorkels were (are) supposed to be restrictive.

It's been a couple of years since I've done it, but I don't remember any real drama associated with changing the pan gaskets. I will also reiterate my affection with 'hylomar' sealant. The stuff is non-hardening, durable and a light coating does wonders as a sealant. I use it on the sump gaskets and on any gasket I don't take off too much (any gasket except the valve covers). The bolts should be about 1 kg*m or 7 ft*lbs, so not much- the same as your valve covers. That's assuming I remember them as the same 6 mm size! Edit: Bob makes a good suggestion re:hose clamp on the oil filter.

Whiskey if it's from the local peat lands whisky if it's from the bogs across the water Crap. I always get it bassakwards. Hey- I'm glad you got your bike back!! A pox on the infidels who tried to steal it! Seriously, what kind of misguided lugnut takes a motorcycle? I often leave my panniers unlocked and expect no one to mess with the contents (usually empty...but there could be beer).

Hi Dave, You've had a tough run of luck. Can I send a few pounds your way so's you can buy an Albert King album and some whisky? I hope I spelled that right. J

Pic n-3 is pretty cool, too. Actually- it ALL looks like a great ride. Or, if Carlsberg typed this....Actuuaply, it; APS oooks liek a a iryeit rieidd

If some of those bits are metal, then just put a neodymium magnet in your sump- maybe install one in the tip of the oil drain plug?

KLR650, XR650 or DR650. All big bikes which would accommodate a tall rider, get excellent gas mileage, and are as reliable as gravity. Want to ride it on the street, not dirt? Fine, use appropriate tires. Done.

Lovely work, Carl!

Do a search for posts by 'kiwi roy', and download his schematics. Basically- clean the hard contacts and the other thing to check is that the relays are well seated into their sockets.

As a follow-up- wrap a piece of cardboard around the driveshaft at the cardan joints. Tape it together (to make a tube). That way, any grease that is flung out after you "fill" it with grease will be caught on the cardboard rather than going out to the tire. Easy, cheesy cleanup.

"My question is, is going back to the stock one even practical or feasible (ie. part available at a price under $500 )? " No. is your picture the replacement? If so, it looks good and if it works, then it works at least as good as OEM. Keep it.

A sure way to guarantee problems is to pay way too much, then baby your bike. You're on the right track, Ben. Ride the crap outta the old gal. That's what I'm doing on mine. Hell, as I said, I road it literally across the country and the worst it did was make my legs hot in Indiana.

You must be a lot bigger or a lot less flexible than I am. I have an ST4s, and I put about 3K miles on it within 4 days of owning it. Felt pretty decent to me. A bit too much weight on the hands, but not by much. Its got a light throttle pull, a light clutch, and pretty good ergononics for my build. My biggest complaint was not enough seating positions. Good to see you back, Ben.

Nice! Enjoy the riding and keep posting the pictures!

I'm sure he'll get back to you, but the easy way to estimate is to draw an imaginary line horizontally through the crankcase at the 'full' bolt. Now rotate the bike. My gut tells me ~30 degrees. My gut also has a couple of glasses of Whisky in it, so....take that into consideration. In my defense, it is good Scotch, not wobbly rotgut stuff. I guess if you want to be sure, then just lay the bike all the way over on its side on some cardboard boxes or something to cushion it.