jrt

Happy Birthday Carl! I'll try to think more about this when I get back- I'm gone till next wednesday.

I believe he lives in the Atlanta area.

How much you want for it Carl?

Anyone here happen to have the time?

If it has a lambda probe (oxygen probe), then the ECU will auto-correct to some extent, I believe. Do any of the European bikes have a lambda probe? I thought some did. But to answer your question- the TPS is the throttle position sensor- it tells the computer how far open your throttle is, so the computer can then set the correct fuel injection. It's just a potentiometer (a volume control, so to speak) and it is found on top of the right hand side injector. See that black plastic button on top, held down by two torx screws with yellow paint and "weber" is printed on there? That's the TPS. There is a three wire connector coming out of it. pull the rubber boot back and carefully disconnect the AMP connector to see them (AMP is a brand name, btw). The TPS is 'set' by adjusting it's position- loosen the torx screws, rotate the TPS. By measuring across the two outermost wires (I think), and rotating the TPS to about 550 mV at idle, that's setting the TPS. Simple eh? The not-so-simple complication is that the AMP connector has to be hooked up. But that's easy to get around also. Your description sounds more like the valve settings are too tight. Check those first and set them to Euro spec.

I dunno. I got another email this morning and it appears Bill worked something out- his bikes in the shop, somebody is getting married...I'm not sure what happened, but I guess it's all good now. J

Wow, Ken, those are TALL! How's it handle?

welcome!

ow ow ow ow ow ow.....especially the...well...all of it. Glad you're ok, Robin. (dammit, I forgot to mention the Borrani rims.... ) She was a beaut, I hope you get to build up another that looks as nice. No crashes, ok?

I bet an old Rabid Transit fairing would look pretty cool on there.

The rubber intakes are an excellent first candidate. Also, if you added Mistral pipes, I guarantee you'll be running lean if you didn't tweak the TPS or PCIII.

I think on the older Veglia units, the odo and trip odo report miles. I have a bicycle speedometer on mine as well as the stock gauges, and they match up pretty well mile for mile.

Motor could be anything from '83 to '94 (has carbs), but I would lean toward earlier 80's because of the forks, FO8 brembos and the rear light (which is the same as my 81 G5). Tank is 1000S or 850 LeMans. The rearsets are aftermarket (Tarozzi?)

Aw, Carl- you're doing a great service to the community. We really do appreciate it and I guarantee that if I were to make these schematics, they'd be A LOT worse. In crayon probably, and I'd only use one color.

I got to work this morning and found this email from board-member Bill Hagan:

Ben, that's just mean. I sure hope there's whisky....

Frustrating. I'll donate any spare karma I have to ya'

Like a 'hiccup' or a full cut-out, dead for a second? If it's a hiccup, then common reasons are that the valves are set too tightly, or the bike is still running a lean condition.

Mine does that too. I think it means either 1) you need to lube the cable or 2) the cable is bent, and is binding a bit or 3) the friction driver in the speedo isn't gripping well, so it just bounces the needle at low speed. Remember- its a feature, not a bug. or for the out there... everything moving has a fundemental de Broglie wavelength (and hence, frequency) given by: lambda = h/(mc) Maybe the speedo is indicating frequency instead of speed "I'm going 4000 Hertz!" sorry

I think that's about the gist of it. Let me throw out a couple more things- I have a RAM clutch in my Eldorado (850GT for the Europeans). It is absolutely quiet. I only have maybe a thousand, maybe 1500 miles on it, but it doesn't make any of the 'normal' sounds. It doesn't make any sound at all, in fact. Time will tell, but I suspect it's because I used some very good, very heavy grease on it. As far as longevity goes, I copied this off the Guzzitech site: I'd like to think I'll get more than 30K miles out of a plate, and I think others have, but I imagine it depends on your riding style. Nige, if you are basing your rating system on price alone, then you've got it down. However, investing some money into a dual plate setup, perhaps lightening the flywheel also, may be worth it to you. The twin plate is a proven, robust setup and for piece of mind, it might be worth the price difference. It's a personal call.

damn, you stole it

Good that you have a datalogging DVM, but is the response time fast enough? You'll have what- a few 10s of milliseconds to register a voltage spike? Can you bridge the fuse and measure current (doubtful....)? That sure would be more useful if you could. Anyway, can you attach some flying leads to the coils and probe there? If you think it's the coils, then that's the reasonable place to probe. Also, which fuse is blowing (see below) and can you probe the fuse itself? I'm not sure what that would tell you.... Also...since you're thinking about wacky alternatives, have you bypassed the clutch/sidestand safety switches and if so, that's a place to look. As is the electric petcock lead. And here's another wacky possibility-the wiring under the relay or the fuse block may be shorting out or it may be the injector relay itself, since that is fed by the ECU relay. Have a spare relay? Man, there's just not a whole lot hooked up to the ECU fuse (good thing, I guess). If you decide to replace the TPS, I've read that a harley part fits the California, so presumably the Sport as well (I think it was on Guzzitech?) OK, looking more closely at your diagram labelled 4 March 2004. Is the fuse block labelled correctly? I think you have F1 and F2 reversed. F1 (5A) feeds the coils/fuel pump/injectors and F2 feeds the ECU. You have them listed as F1 ECU and F2 coils...

Alright, I ordered a set of speed bleeders- we'll see how they work out. Thanks for the part numbers- I'm a little surprised that the threads are different on the front and rear brakes. Ok, maybe not so surprised.

I believe the tach is grounded through the case. If the mounting button is corroded- no ground. Do a search as I believe Carl Allison has written something up on it. The Sport makes more clutch noise than the California models. Like the Cali's- don't pull in the clutch at idle. It's bad for the clutch, the gears, etc.

Those are nice! I especially like the 750S cafe variant