jrt

close to double sounds right if I read your discussion correctly: comparing a standard (mostly Tonti parts...) dp clutch to sp clutch: $66 for one plate (need 2) $40 for intermediate plate $95 for input hub $1.25 for one spring (need 8) flywheel lightening services are $275 for the cheapest I found in 5 minutes, but you have to provide a flywheel. I couldn't find the cost of a flywheel or ring gear. RAM clutch: $500 even if you HAVE a flywheel/ringear, then all the rest is still $550. bottom line- it's expensive to change the style of clutch that you have.

Only mildly appropriate: http://test.recordstore.com/wuname/wuname.pl/wuname.pl your wu tan clan name generator....

it sounds like you'll be just fine. seriously- the clutches do make some rattling/rasping noise. I think of it as endearing, rather than threatening.

Dude, don't jinx me. Two weeks.....

good luck..well, it's after 5, so I hope it went well. J

You'd have to be well off.

nyuck nyuck nyuck...

Just for kicks and grins, check the valve lash when you go through her. Another cheap, effective, hopefully negative probe is to stick a 'magnet on a stick' down the sump (use the oil cap) and fish around for metal. I hope you don't find any. I would be good to know where the noise is originating from...If it is a head gasket, wouldn't it be blowing oil out at the seal? J

^^^ Thanks- I should have just downloaded it; I didn't notice it was the wmv file- I thought it was one of those pointers. I downloaded and watched it through to 1:01:few seconds- heck of a just-prior-to-the-end-of-the-race trade up between those three fellows. Pretty impressive riding. It still stops just as Rossi offers Giberneau his hand- did they shake? J

AAAARRRRGHGGH... 37 minutes into it and it siezed up on me. I HATE FREAKIN STREAMING video. Nevertheless- thanks for posting the link Staedler.

...the gnashing teeth and ...and.... lookit the bones, man!

There's a small, soft-rubber vent line right on top of the spine- near the head. Check that first- it vents the oil recovery system in the spine. I pinched mine one time and when it built up pressure and blew....scared the heck out of me. I agree with Steve- it's probably an oil recovery or crankcase vent problem- your symptoms are not consistent with a bent valve. Besides, I yellow line mine all the time and it's just fine.

I had a trail 90, with the hi/lo and four-speed gearbox and spare gas tank. Great bike, a zillion miles to the gallon....but slllooooowwww. It could, however, in low gear pull a fully grown (past-tense) elk off a mountain.

The sport dual plate is a much lighter flywheel than the old boat anchors. That's for dang sure. It works very well, and frankly there's not a large difference between the clutch feel on my sport and the RAM unit I put on my Eldorado. The sport is a little better feel because it's hydaulic...but that's about it- both are smooth and predictable. It's good you don't idle with the clutch pulled in, Nogbad. It's hard on the input and clutch splines. Put 'er in neutral.

True- look closely at the metal and use a magnifiying glass- is it darker at either the 6 or 10 o'clock position? Any longer-term oxidation?

I was snapping pictures, but my camera was dying....anyhow, this is all I could salvage from these pictures- sorry for the low quality. Orson, the last photo shows the latest offering from Mandello, with radically new air cooling and promising 3-8 hp. Steve: Motorcyclist, or Cyclemotorist, or Motormotor or some such rag biased toward race replicas did exactly that very recently (author was J. Colon). Todd Eagan posted a note here on the forum and he was involved in the evaluation. I bought the mag...didn't care for it very much (it's just not my style)....but I did enjoy that article because MG came out on top vs. a Buell, a BMW and a MZ. Not sure it was a fair comparison since they used a Coppa Italia, but hey, I like my guys to win.

Happy birrthday Jaap!

bmonning, The V11sport drivebox and the 1100sport drive box are entirely different architectures inside and and out. A Tonti frame part will not work either- they don't have that hole (that's cracked) on the upper section. Is that a rear stabilizer or reaction shaft mounting point? The insides of a Tonti part ought to fit, but that's not your problem. At least the cases are cheaper than the gears, and if you can get both...then you get a backup set of gears (think lemonade). J

I didn't think the longer frames were as prone to headshake... How's the tires?

Ah, yes. And the old adage about a 'rule of thumb' being that the switch you use on your dear wife be not greater in diameter than the husband's thumb. Ouch. belfast- don't tell anyone- I need to finance my retirement somehow.

Why don't you keep an eye on it for another 1-2000 miles. If it's running fine, then don't make conclusions on one data point. Even at the worst (worn guides, I'd guess), it won't do any damage to run it awhile longer. Just keep an eye- every 500 miles or so- on the oil. Not too often or you'll psych yourself out. J

Wow, that's a weird one. Not too weird, I guess, since my heat reflective material also came loose. I used 3M fast-tack adhesive to reattach it, and that has worked well for about a year now. Glad you found it, and I'm glad it was minor! J

Don't do that or he'll just go surfin for porn and run up bills on your Visa card for mail order synthetic oil and dielectric grease.

Cooommmmeee to the dark side, Tom....the daaarrrrkkk side...

KLR650. Cheap as dirt and almost as reliable as gravity. Plus you get to ride in the mud.