I would disagree, oil has long chain molecules that are broken losing viscosity.
Watch old fork oil being poured out, like water. New oil is usually much thicker.
I was using regular marine grease and re-applying every tire change but switched to the Staburags and don’t see a need to re-apply that often.
I like it, cuts the tire swap time down a bit.
Behind the stator cover/rotor is a crank seal. Yes you would see oil on the stator if that was leaking. You can actually change that without removing the timing cover.
Not sure about your 2000 but on my 02 there is a “spigot” that is threaded into the upper sump then the hoses thread onto that. Behind the spigots there is a sealing washer. I’ve replaced mine because it leaked.
Come to think of it I’ve replaced all these possible leaking points on my bike at least once...
The easiest leak to fix is the sealing washers behind the oil lines. Mine were leaking once.
Timing gasket is like a three-four hour job the first time, two the second time.
Upper sump gasket is only slightly harder than doing a filter change. Might as well roper sloper it while you’re there.
On the great Bosch oil filter sticker controversy.
I changed my oil today out of paranoia. I have about 200 miles on this oil and filter as it was my pre winter change. So at least a couple heat cycles. I will say that the sticker was attached and whole but came off real easy after bathing in oil since November.
If it was me i’d drain the oil and remove the sticker just to rest my mind. I wouldn’t fault a guy either way though.
Gmc, I admire you honestly. I just don’t have the nerve to dump a $12.99/gal jug of oil into my bike.
I’ve always used mobil1 which seems to split the difference between the Rotella and Motul folks.
I burn a bit, but it’s consistent.
I install my sump gaskets dry. I would suggest putting a hose clamp around the oil filter so it doesn’t loosen itself. Unlike most exterior oil filters if this one starts to get loose you won’t see a leak.