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Everything posted by czakky
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Yeah I tried fresh plugs... I don't really have much hair to pull out. Hope is not lost though.
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Definitely aware of the injector priming itself. I only cycled a few times to push some fuel through my dry system since I had replaced most fuel lines, fuel filter and cleaned the injectors. I don't think that would have flooded it but possibly cracking the throttle a little exuberantly a few times might have. Again letting her sit overnight should be ample time to clear that though? I didn't try starting her today but I did go through K Roy's brilliant ECU test points and everything seems to check out. That should prove my wiring is kosher, right? Anyway the only things I've got left to check are fuel pressure and I was going to reload Meinolf's map just to be sure her brains didn't get scrambled somehow. After that I'm running out of ideas.
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TPS checks out, as does the pin on relay 5. Fresh plugs and while I was at it checked valves. Tried her again it was the same thing.... On the positive side I got to use K. Roy's patented "go winky" light! Once she cools down I will check fuel pressure and go over all my connections. Although I was able to check the inputs on the injectors and the coils already.... I did fit new gauges, not sure that effects anything.
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Oh yeah, I did try adding more fuel.... check my post a couple up.
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I suppose the pump could have been dead heading, but when it did sort of run there was a good amount of black smoke. I've drained the system before and can't remember it taking so long to push fuel through, I could be wrong though. I'll try again tomorrow... patience not one of my virtues.
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Sorry I meant to say that I did add atleast another gallon after I saw the leak. I'm gonna check/replace plugs tomorrow. Guess I don't think about a fuel injected bike fouling plugs but seems very plausible.
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After getting her all back together this winter we've got some nice weather today. Dry tank, added about 3/4 of a gallon primed the fuel pump about three times. Crank crank crank, nothing. Starter is working I can hear her trying to fire so I'm pretty sure she's got spark. I look over her a few times notice that I forgot to tighten a hose clamp and am leaking fuel by the right injector try to crank again after tightening said clamp. She's not going and I've depleted the battery. Charge her up after a couple hours and try again. Cranking and firing I could even run her with throttle like 1/8 open but, if I give her gas she just dies immediately. There is a small exhaust leak and I can see black smoke coming out pretty good. I guess I'm wondering if it sounds like I'm running rich? Did I flood her trying to crank for so long? How long would it take to dry out the combustion chamber?
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That is exactly what I was thinking SP, minus the chromoly. I was wondering if there was measurements already taken. Should be pretty straight forward though? As long as the rose/heim joints have external (axial?) pressure on the inner race from spacers/washers. The inner diameter of the joints could have some slop on the bolt, correct?
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Tom, what ever came of this? I'm thinking of doing a female threaded aluminum rod with correct rose joints to replace mine. Unless there is a bearing/spacer combo somebody has tried?
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I have heard of being able to lock a back wheel up from going to a very low gear at high speeds, even with the clutch disengaged (pulled in).
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Never really thought this one through, thanks for the info!
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Multiple oils leaks thread with a twist
czakky replied to Midle Age Warrior's topic in Technical Topics
Hey BMWs aren't supposed to go that fast! -
Awesome! Thanks Chuck!
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TPS (throttle position sensor) OEM part no: 01530500 PF3C Harley part no: 27271-95 PF4C Basically the same part the OEM is usually over $200 (us) the Harley part can be found for under $70. Available here http://ca-cycleworks.com/pf3c (Thanks Marty) There are minor differences between the two which are explained here: http://archive.guzzitech.com/HD-TPS-Jeff_B.html It has been brought to my attention that the PF4C might not be a "drop in" replacement. That the ignition and fueling curves won't matchup to the ECU. However I have run the 4C in the past and found no hugely discernible difference. That being said I have the 3C on my bike now.
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You probably couldn't tell the two apart back to back. Literally almost no difference, I've tried both. Just the price.
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I think Quota's are some of the best looking "adventure" bikes made. Non biased judgement since they are technically a spine frame. I like the drz's and xr's too...
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I'm always torn between a classic mile muncher (ala /5-7 BMW or Guzzi Loop) and a dual sport (ala klr250) when the idea of adding another bike to the stable comes to mind. I'm pretty sure you load up your husky and drive to trails, but how brutal is a quick-ish hwy. jaunt on a dirt oriented bike? I seem to find out of the way trails all the time on my v11.... not on purpose.
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Read up on guzzidiag buy the cables and you can access a variety of maps. There are a few topics on this forum about it. What makes you want to change the map?
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Bummer! Is that insulation around the fuel pump? I put foil tape over my intake temporarily for winter. Surrounded my bike with mouse traps and even threw some rat poison in there for good measure. Then I built a moat and surrounded my shed with feral cats.....
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Admitting this might release a bunch of voodoo. As I have yet to replace a pawl spring but, I had one tucked away deep in my tail storage and it sat for so long and through so many rains it actually rusted up pretty good. Wondering if I should replace this talisman or just add another one coated in oil?
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The Hemingway of tech write up. Well done sir.
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Love that comparable parts topic!
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Should this go on the compatible parts page?
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Isn't the tach the same dimension?