czakky

@JRD lord knows I've been in that position before. Maybe someday I'll have the wisdom to turn around and not be miserable. BTW I barely have a steady enough throttle hand to keep my back wheel in check on the v11 let alone a fire breathing Ape like that in the rain!

Looks like a good time was had by all. JRD, I don't blame you for trailering the ape. It's a long booooring ride from the Bay Area.

Can we sponsor online? Link?

Did you make sure you're on the right ECU? 15m for v11 sport etc.

@Docc geometry was never my strong suit... @Foto I think I had a Kawi like that too. How does that even work? Dry vs Wet sump thing? Doesn't make sense to me....

Did you check the "Tenni registry"? One for sale over there....

Been saying I was gonna make it to like the last three... Next year. Super jealous though.

I think what danl and Guzzimoto are saying is open the sump. Take a look it's real easy and will come with peace of mind. 14 bolts or so...

Ha!... 8k rpm? Not me...

Ok, i thought I remembered the manual saying the level should be checked after running but I figure that is usually for after an oil change. I will stick to my usual method and try to find out who keeps stealing the oil out of my bike....

Sorry to post a dead horse topic here but I'm just still baffled by something. My normal oil level check routine is either A: In garage before starting check oil level while on bike mostly horizontal to the world, dipstick screwed in all the way. Or B: same as before only after I fueled up and bike is warm and been sitting for 60-90 sec. On Sunday I used method "A" before heading out and was surprised to see I was 2/3 low between marks. Topped up a half quart of Mobil 1 and off I went a little perplexed that I had gone through so much oil in only 1k miles. After scaring all the dairy cows I could find in SW Wisconsin I was on my way home and decided to check my level again (method "B") now I was at least a half quart over the full mark....? I know oil expands and there is bound to be some oil that hides out in the thermostatically controlled oil cooler. I usually don't have such a variance between hot and cold readings. What is happening? Should I lose the extra half qt.?

Sounds like a clutch slipping. Clutches are under more force in higher gears. Don't know if it is necessarily a "worn" clutch but it sounds like it is slipping. Could be a few things last one I would worry about is the clutch being worn. How many miles on the bike?

Did you try disconnecting the oil pressure sender? If there is a short to chassis it will stay lit. I think MG cycle sells the sender for like $12 they are pretty cheaply made. If you remove the sender on your bike you can crudely test it by pressurizing it like your blowing up a balloon you should hear a click after a very little pressure.

By the way my least favorite signs up here is the one with the deer. Especially around sundown....

Yeah Scud it'd be "The Bridges of Madison in Dane County".... It almost works! Hey Ken you've got a Florida transplant in cheesehead territory now. Living in temporary housing in Madison while we look for a house (probably in Madison). Where in WI are you?

Beautiful!

Nope sorry Docc only tiny bridges over streams. Hardly an interstate around... My vote is street bike to your terrible "first world problem"... Poor guy.

Well I'm never very good at remembering to take pics. Honestly the landscape here in my new homeland of Wisconnie isn't as dramatic as you guys in the mountains/canyons but hot damn is there some fun riding out here! Life is good for a spine frame out here.... Until winter that is. Been kinda quiet around here lately hopefully you guys are all getting some good miles/ kilometers out there!

Yeah it's very obvious. With stock pipes the stock map runs better. IMO

In line with a FZR 400 I've always lusted after a CB-1. As much as I love parking my V11 in 3rd and rolling on the midrange lazily. Somehow now having an involved gearbox constantly switching gears is kinda cool too! Motorcycles like women and beer love em all!

Well said! Sounds like you took a spin on the new Chief? How was it? Not a cruiser guy but it certainly is an interesting bike.

Sort of opposite of a v11 airbox.

Like a major league pitcher in the middle of a no-hitter I'm not saying anything....

I've heard dyno guys say that when a torque curve isn't flat that somehow it tells them that there is room for tuning thus more HP is available.... that really messes me up. I have also been told that basically HP is torque multiplied by RPM (over simplified of course). Also why do drag strip guys always say that it is about how you use the torque to get your 1/4 mile times lower. Sorry I'm no help, just have more questions.

Sounds lean, where was your TPS set? Start from the top of the method described in the "How to" sub forum by Ryland I think. You can back out the right hand screw too far but once it's flush with the inside of the metal it shouldn't be in play anymore. Look at the left screw to get an idea of how it works it is hard to see in there. Sounds like to me your synch rod is out of whack. Make sure you take out any "backlash" when synching for the first time. I don't think anybody gets this process totally right the first time. Start from the top and you'll be amazed at how the bike runs when you get it right!