czakky

Yeah, that is the XDF I have/had V2.28.... I'll be working on my ignition timing a little more when I get her back on the road... Soon hopefully. I'm thinking of just running a flat cold start map for now and see how that works, because what i did discover after backing down the values was that toward the end of the cold start map I was having some really bad fueling which may or may not have contributed to my fall.

close ups....-non happy guy...

Had a little "off" the other day, rider is ok bike a little less so. Wasn't terrible but could have been better. Coming ho,me from work and I was trying to beat a storm (here in a subtropical region torrential rainfall comes out of nowhere drops 2-5" almost daily then the sun shines and birds chirp like it never happened!) passing traffic and otherwise not being cautious. Storm is heading south I'm heading south but I didn't know that. Anyway I'm going where this mini storm has already been and down hill no less. At eighty MPH the v11 does hydro plain in 3-4" of water! Left steering lock-right steering lock as the rear wheel is going faster than the front I think I might have grabbed the clutch... not sure. But she bucked me i landed shoulder/head first slid on my ass and watched out for traffic, (luckily none or else.....) wore a hole through my wallet. My functional damage is limited too clutch lever, shifter and the worst is the kickstand. I'm thinking of having the aluminum part welded back on to the timing cover but am open to suggestions. Sorry for the wordy post we don't get a lot of crash reports so I thought I'd bum you otherwise happy bunch out a little! Kidding.

I googled til the cows came home...found nada. Best I could do as I was only 15 in '97.... Sorry dude.

wonder why it seemingly only affected the cold start map?? How did you obtain this new XDF?

Soon hopefully!

That sounds like a good idea. Thanks Ken!

Most my parts are attached and where they should be. I-275 has my clutch lever othrwise most parts on the v11 should be accounted for if not working. I'll post a thread later showing the after math of a lock to lock spine frame buck.

Sorry Bjorn, I had put it all back as was without measuring and with no o-ring so i thought. Of course even with good amounts of "hylomar" it leaked like a sieve (sic?). Was going to try one more time to stop this leak to discover an o-ring that had been covered in a whitish sealant and just below the surface of the case. So for the ladt year or so i had been wondering what this groove everyone was talking about in there case for the o-ring. Ordered a couple of OEM rings as i couldnt find one shallow enough to fit this almost non- existent groove. The old ring was hidden with the white sealant..... Plus i'm sure me trying to fit another ring in there deformed all pieces. So when i got it all cleaned up with new ring, guess what?.... No leak! Week later i crash. Bike is in garage awaiting repairs. BTW ignition timing was seemingly unaffected by anything i did. Best thing was retard ignition through guzzidiag. Which caused other issues.

Haha! Sounds like a lotta fun. I'm jealous. Except the weiner dog part.....

Sorry I've been halted by a wee little high-side... Kinda bummed, bike's inoperable at the moment. More details and pics in a later thread (the V11 and me are both still running great) But, what i did find was lowering everything by a value of 10 in the start enrichment map gave me awesome cold start manners until out of nowhere for a bout 30-45 seconds it would just start acting erratic as hell. Then seemingly switch to normal map and continue running great. There is a huge rise in the value on the start enrich map at the "end"...? Of the map. That part is still confusing to me but I was/am planning on even-ing out the whole map out as it seems to get way too rich.

Basically yes, If youre happy with the way it runs then i would jump into the TB balance. Start with valve lash then air bleed screws then 1800-2500 rpm then back to air bleeds at idle.

Igniton on but not running. Use 521mv as a reference for idle speed, mine isnt right there.

It should just pop right off, mine does.....easily......too easily

I am thinking I'm just too rich on start up. Pulling like a freight train when warm. What is causing it to all of a sudden get so rich on start up i have no clue. I wrote another map which is backing off the start map all over.

Valves checked?

Valves checked?

Rebalanced TB's as I am starting to get a little bummed about this bike and running out of ideas. They were pretty far out at idle like three + inches of mercury at idle....? Then my damn mercury sticks fell and shattered. So your theory might have to wait a day or two Ken.

Start simple with spark plugs, then coils. Have you been through the TPS and Throttle Body setup? Is it a new to you bike? Was it running good?

Dayumn! Beautiful. Why'd you suppose Guzzi never did much with that v10 engine? Daytona, Centauro, very few of either of those made. Seems like they are fairly reliable if kept well.

Rear drive vent is the one with a cap on it. Remove and use a solvent to verify that air can vent through it. Same with trans vent easier to do with rear wheel off though not necessary.

After running through the first tank i thought i had all the ring free run through high rpm like you said. Then did a full oil change. Oh well! Yeah i cant see the valves through the spark plug hole, but damn three tanks...

I know I have had this forum on text only before on my computer. How I did it? no clue, sorry bud.

Have not rebalanced TB's yet, but that is a possibility. But the black smoke? Never smelled synthetic oil burning before but it doesn't smell like dino.

After comparing maps w/Moto Fugazzi it seems like our maps are virtually identical. Except "Start Enrichment Map B" and the main fuel map at 4.2% throttle for some reason... I have used this "Yamaha Ring Free Plus" product on a shock treatment (2 oz. per gallon I believe) to help clean up some of my carbon build up in the combustion chamber. Which it did a great job of! But after three clean tanks, meaning no "ring free" I am still having this problem of very rough running for about 5-7 mins. Everything I have read about this Ring Free product has said that when doing the shock treatment that your engine will run rough, spew black smoke, blah blah blah. Which my bike is but after three tanks and relatively clean combustion chamber it seems to still be doing this. The product itself is almost a brake fluid like consistency and when I poured a little into a clear glass jar full of petrol it seemed to immediately sink to the bottom. But overnight it looked like it was well mixed in the gas. So it doesn't seem likely that after three tanks I could have any of this product left but it sure is behaving like it is. Unfortunately I downloaded my slightly varied map into the ECU at the same time I added this product (time is tight these days) so I don't know where this trouble started. What do you guys think, could a cold start map that isn't right make my bike blow smoke and run like garbage this bad while warming up? And could someone shine some light on what "Start Map B" is all about? Thanks guys