czakky

If all goes as planned..... I will be heading out this upcoming saturday. Giving the old girl a bi-annual bath and low behold my front tire's looking a little worse for wear then I remember?? upon closer inspection I've got a badly deformed tire (left side is much sharper right is rounded) oh well figured I was due for some wheel/steering bearings. Sucks, but what can you do? At least my back tire is new and properly shaped... right? Freakin screw right in the middle of my 75% tread Pirelli!! Just had to vent a wee bit... Can't blame all of this on Mandello.

Every time I think I'm out they pull me back!

The 00-02's probably had more issues, I would use that as a bargaining card. Ride it and if after 50 miles you don't love it... Sorry it didn't choose you.

Touche'

love the luggage rack on the 1100 sport

Sean, try a big blast of brake cleaner or other such solvent you probably have some obstruction in there. Remember you've got a steel bolt going into aluminum so be careful not to cross-thread. It will be a huge pain in the gludeus to heli-coil or anything else to fix damaged threads back there.

One or two cylinders, I'm with you Mjingen.

Went back ove everything I had done and couldn't really find anything obvious. I still have some testing that kiwi Roy had recommended. otherwise I have two theories, please tell me it's paranoia... First is that if when I had changed my front crank seal ( without removing the timing cover) that even though I was extremely delicate I could've knocked a piece of the collar of the cover into the oil system..... God I hope not! The other theory is that my fuel pump is just been over stressed for too long ( makin weird sounds every now and then) it gives up the ghost when hot....? Just throwing it out there let me know if you guys thinkeither of these are plausible. Tomorrow I'll test her out then onto the electric testing k-Roy recommended....

Yeah Mzync, I had sprayed wd-40 pretty liberally all over both the boots all around and the airbox connection while idling looking for a change in idle... nothing. I guess I could try the unlit propane torch trick when warm maybe those boots expand when hot?? I always wondered if copper paste would work for that. Really hoping it's something stupid and small. Thanks for the words of encouragement. By the way if it's something real stupid and small rest assured you probably never hear about it....

Yea I checked the boots. Checked/replaced the air temp sensor. My exhaust does have small leaks at the connections but it's never been a problem before....

Not sure if this works or will give any clues but I took a quick vid last night. Note the revs hanging just above idle. This is after it's been warmed up, http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=H3N3I8K8h50

Yea, I have checked the timing sensors gap and it looks good. I've never measured it but the spacer is flat and the o ring isn't protruding. Anybody know what the thickness of the spacer is supposed to be? I do need to pull it out ... Once again, still leaking?

Thanks for another great thread Bjorn.

Fresh 9 volt in the multimeter still getting weird readings... Anyway, Kiwi_Roy had very kindly sent me a "thermistor" (the resistor that is used for the air temp sensor). Got it rigged using some very high-brow Polish engineering (don't get upset my last name is Jaszczak) and still suffering the same symptoms. So all I've got left is to check the ECU voltage and then pull these injectors. Any other ideas?

Could I have damaged my multimeter? Everything on K_Roy's ECU test point chart is reading around 115-150 ohm's... Sooo confused with this now.

I whole heartedly agree!

I read air temp sensor yesterday cold and of course It read at around 115 in the 2k range. I'll try that resistor.

What frame is that? one-off?

R and D, small production runs (especially for Guzzi's), it's an accessory for a luxury item plus it's external so it's gotta look purdy. That's my un-educated guess.

Maybe try Guzzitech, always a lot of Carc bike stuff there.

I bet Bjorn could answer that.

I suppose then Docc that I could just short a wire across the contacts to the said tester bulb? I just wasn't sure if you knew that it was a hot engine. I'll check it cold again but last time it read normal I believe. Something tells me I need a new air temp sensor. Couple more tests first. Besides, I wanna ride around with a bulb taped to my dash.

Docc, that is a hot engine. So sorta bad... Ok first thing Roy is I'll check flow which I'm pretty sure is good . Then onto the petcock fuse which I do have a manual one on there so thus my confusion. Just to verify my bike is actually stable at higher revs but dies when idling down and then loses power until up into the 3k range when well warmed. Got the PM

To test the ECU I should wrap some wire around the fuel pump fuse? To a small bulb like from a turn signal or the like? Guess I am not sure how to measure PSI at the fuel pump. If I understand the fuel pump system on these bikes the fuel pump works like an air compressor only running when pressure is needed? The air temp sensor is right where Luigi put it. Whe I got the 34.5 reading it was probably around 72f/22c so nothing extreme bike had died a couple times and was just through some stop n go traffic. Don't know why resistance is so low. There is a very minscule tear on the red coating of the element on the actual sensor. Its always been there and never gave it much thought.

Roy, the 30 ohm reading was after a ride as soon as I could get a reading just to check that it was dropping resistance. Will check ECU voltage I can check that too. Any amount specifically that should flow? Can't remember last time I accidentally checked that.... The reason I had cleaned the contacts on the fuel pump is because every tenth or so time the pump primes it makes a weird sound usually half way through priming. After cleaning the contacts (again) it seems to be doing it less but still occasionally. It's always done it and besides the noise there has never been an issue.