czakky

I should have my tank off in a day or two. Let me know if you could use a pic as my filter is on the frame.

Got it! Fresh socket and BFH. Threads don't look too bad. Now I realize the whole subframes gotta come out. This dang woodruff key is stuck too. I thought I was gonna be riding tonight.

No its definitely 1/4" drive, as that is what the allen bits/sockets are. I broke the ratchet mechanism on a 3/8" drive though. Also a 3/8"f - 1/4"m reducer also. So the bits/sockets are not the weak point. I will try to get a little more aggressive with the heat (didn't want to mess up the frame powder coating). Yes I am CCW on these... I think this bike was sitting outside for sometime before I had it so these bolts are just corroded on I'm guessing. Also I had a jack under the sump trying to take some of the weight off the bolt to no avail. Anyway I'll probably try this again and if I can't get it I guess i'll have an oily, flaky, bubbly, peeling, engine case.... Oh well. Thanks for the help once again guys.

Haha, sorry I guess I figured he wanted to see the damage

sorry it took me so long, here's my bane

The 10mm Allen bolt on the frame

Looks awesome!

Got that upper sump gasket in and no leaks out back anymore. Woohoo! Now onto the timing cover leak.... Got stuck on that 24mm nut on the crank shaft. I tried the rear brake in a high gear couldn't budge it, tried a screwdriver through the peephole and started marring the case a little. Then I remembered a trick I used to replace a centrifugal clutch where you use a penny between the gears (as copper is soft) to stop the rotation. Pulled out a penny to see if it was large enough to not slip in the hole....... Well let me tell you it's not! So now my dumba** has to figure a way to get that out. I stepped away for a minute and plodded forward removing the timing cover. Next step, remove frame stay bolts one craftsmen 3/8 drive socket wrench later, nothing. One snap-on 1/4 drive, nothing. Okay a little carefully placed heat and a 1/4 drive craftsmen socket a good bite on the bolt with all my strength.... Yup guzzi's turn to fail, the bolt head stripped. Gotta laugh at myself, I guess fotoguzzi was right with letting the bugger leak a little.

Anything ever come to light on this? I know you guys north of the "Sun Belt" are in no big rush to get the bikes back on the road yet, but I was just curious....

I'm really getting along well with this tire, my only complaint thus far is I've only put about 600 miles on it. I also wish I would have ponied up and replaced the front too (which has a lot of tread left) but I'm cheap.

I'm an idiot, first of all. Once again as per Docc's suggestion there was simply a loose connection there at the line. Could of sworn I checked that... But that was the minor and new leak. Seems like my leak that has been hard to track is coming from the upper sump gasket and leaking back slowly. Might be my sign to get one of them new fangled Roper slopers.

Oh, yeah, four gone. Plus Nemo/Enzo makes five. Not that my patience accomplished anything, but it wasn't for lack of trying. Those are all members excommunicated?... I too have Docc's noticed high patience threshold. On a lot of old threads I run across.

My fault. I guess I forget my own vernacular. The halogens will be warmed up and I will forget everything Hitchcock taught me when I take a look tomorrow ....

Cable? No I haven't messed with the connection, there doesn't appear to be any o-ring in the schematics. Would a bit of Teflon tape be a bad idea?

I don't think so, seems thin and it doesn't have that earthy complex bouquet of shockproof. But I don't have the palette of a veteran guzzisti.

Yea I'll try. Better yet I'll remove the clutch slave and report back. I just don't find a lot of hydraulic leaks on these here forums.

Ha! It does look more than a little ominous...

so I'm pretty sure I've got a timing cover leak. After trying the aerosol foot powder trick a couple times. But now I think I've got either a clutch slave cylinder leak or a cable leak?? not sure which. The strange thing is that I never notice any fluid missing, yet I can find fluid all the way to the trans. drain plug. I've never felt any difference in lever feel at the clutch either. Is it possible that I have a hydraulic leak?

One of the first things I did when I got my LeMans was to remove the evap can/bracket I've only had it for a few thousand miles but, besides losing an endcap bolt seems to be holding up fine.

Hey Foto, how do you think your leak compares to mine? I know it's hard to see in the pics, my oil level does slowly go down. Seems like the oil light goes on for like half a second on start up which I don't remember it doing that before. But who knows

Yea, sorry about the close up I took a bunch of pics. 1st pic is right side lower part of timing chest. 2nd is a closer shot of the last one (4th pic) thats after about 5 mins of idling kind of a lot of oil. 3rd pic is the back of the case where the trans. is bolted left side, probably old oil but can't tell where its coming from. Breather hose is fresh and clean. Sorry I guess I don't understand how the dye and UV light would help. Wouldn't it just show me where the oil is? I've never used it before not sure how it works.

I've got this bubbly flaky engine as clean and greaseless as I can ("simple green" delicate degreaser fyi). Timing cover looks like it might be weeping but I'm having trouble finding any other source especially the bad one. Looks like it's under the left cylinder base gasket but, I've read numerous posts on the subject and have found that a common leak is the oil cooler lines/oil lines/coupling gaskets. There is no evidence of that... I do know that the previous owner had the rings replaced on the left cylinder and the heads had been re-torqued fairly recently. I was hoping the leak was as simple as the timing sensor so I had smeared a light coating of silicone sealer between the shim and case. Also totally unrelated while I had her sitting there idling thought I'd check the charging system. Headlights brighten up with revs but last time I checked it was perfect (12.9 at idle up to 14.2v at 3k). Today it was sitting at 14.26 at idle and didn't change much when revved. This can't be good... I know I'm like most of us Americans who believe that a little is good but a lot is better. But in this case.... I'll try and post some pics, any help is obviously appreciated. Note the "foot powder trick" showing very little weepage on the timing cover, last pic is back of the case with a small amount of oil

I've got a chase harper (strap) sport trek?.. They're not the cheapest but come with an unlimited lifetime warranty. I live out of mine and had one before this so to me it's worth it.

I'm due for a rear. Think it might have to be a Pirelli. In the past I really liked Michelin PR2s 3s. Not so much Bridgestone Bt-023 and my current Metzelers Z6?... I think.

Here I thought I was lucky to have seen an MGS.... once