czakky
-
Posts
1,733 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
26
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Community Map
Posts posted by czakky
-
-
I'm an idiot, first of all. Once again as per Docc's suggestion there was simply a loose connection there at the line. Could of sworn I checked that...
But that was the minor and new leak. Seems like my leak that has been hard to track is coming from the upper sump gasket and leaking back slowly.
Might be my sign to get one of them new fangled Roper slopers.
-
Well....where is BFG ?
Oh, yeah, four gone. Plus Nemo/Enzo makes five.
Not that my patience accomplished anything, but it wasn't for lack of trying.
Those are all members excommunicated?...
I too have Docc's noticed high patience threshold. On a lot of old threads I run across.
-
My fault. I guess I forget my own vernacular.
The halogens will be warmed up and I will forget everything Hitchcock taught me when I take a look tomorrow
....
-
Cable? No I haven't messed with the connection, there doesn't appear to be any o-ring in the schematics. Would a bit of Teflon tape be a bad idea?
-
I don't think so, seems thin and it doesn't have that earthy complex bouquet of shockproof. But I don't have the palette of a veteran guzzisti.
-
Yea I'll try. Better yet I'll remove the clutch slave and report back. I just don't find a lot of hydraulic leaks on these here forums.
-
Ha! It does look more than a little ominous...
-
so I'm pretty sure I've got a timing cover leak. After trying the aerosol foot powder trick a couple times. But now I think I've got either a clutch slave cylinder leak or a cable leak?? not sure which. The strange thing is that I never notice any fluid missing, yet I can find fluid all the way to the trans. drain plug. I've never felt any difference in lever feel at the clutch either.
Is it possible that I have a hydraulic leak?
-
One of the first things I did when I got my LeMans was to remove the evap can/bracket I've only had it for a few thousand miles but, besides losing an endcap bolt seems to be holding up fine.
-
Hey Foto, how do you think your leak compares to mine? I know it's hard to see in the pics, my oil level does slowly go down. Seems like the oil light goes on for like half a second on start up which I don't remember it doing that before. But who knows
-
Yea, sorry about the close up I took a bunch of pics. 1st pic is right side lower part of timing chest. 2nd is a closer shot of the last one (4th pic) thats after about 5 mins of idling kind of a lot of oil. 3rd pic is the back of the case where the trans. is bolted left side, probably old oil but can't tell where its coming from.
Breather hose is fresh and clean.
Sorry I guess I don't understand how the dye and UV light would help. Wouldn't it just show me where the oil is? I've never used it before not sure how it works.
-
I've got this bubbly flaky engine as clean and greaseless as I can ("simple green" delicate degreaser fyi).
Timing cover looks like it might be weeping but I'm having trouble finding any other source especially the bad one. Looks like it's under the left cylinder base gasket but, I've read numerous posts on the subject and have found that a common leak is the oil cooler lines/oil lines/coupling gaskets. There is no evidence of that...
I do know that the previous owner had the rings replaced on the left cylinder and the heads had been re-torqued fairly recently.
I was hoping the leak was as simple as the timing sensor so I had smeared a light coating of silicone sealer between the shim and case.
Also totally unrelated while I had her sitting there idling thought I'd check the charging system. Headlights brighten up with revs but last time I checked it was perfect (12.9 at idle up to 14.2v at 3k).
Today it was sitting at 14.26 at idle and didn't change much when revved. This can't be good... I know
I'm like most of us Americans who believe that a little is good but a lot is better. But in this case....
I'll try and post some pics, any help is obviously appreciated.
Note the "foot powder trick" showing very little weepage on the timing cover, last pic is back of the case with a small amount of oil
-
-
I'm due for a rear. Think it might have to be a Pirelli.
In the past I really liked Michelin PR2s 3s.
Not so much Bridgestone Bt-023 and my current Metzelers Z6?... I think.
-
Here I thought I was lucky to have seen an MGS.... once
-
Mine gets hung up on the rear cowling, the petcock and FPR get hung up on the airbox. Takes a little force.
-
Sometimes when I see your guys' workspaces/garages I get a little jealous. My "shop" is also a very active cockroach hotel with bad lighting and not a flat area to speak of. Someday.....
-
Awesome, thanks for the info.
-
They look a little oil fouled and maybe the engine was running hot, like at an idle.
The unevenness and glazing argues for an hot, idling engine, although I have read somewhere that the V11 engine always has uneven plug deposits.
Wow JB, guess I didn't realize how much you could read from just looking at the plugs. I was in fact with wifey in tow looking for some place to eat stuck in traffic the night before I pulled my plugs. Impressive
Also I'll give the bike a proper run then. Seeing as how it's doctor's orders...
Back in the day doing a 'plug-chop' was the usual way of checking the fuel air mixture, before lambda sensors etc. It simply entailed riding the bike at whatever throttle setting you were interested in, I.e. Half or full, preferably up a slight incline to load the motor for a minute or so then simultaneously hit the kill switch and pull in the clutch. The idea is the plug colour will indicate the mixture at that throttle setting. If you just slow down pull over then check the plug you get the colour (and so the mixture) when it was at idle when you stopped. It was always a fun thing to do especially if you were a bit uncoordinated as of course pulling in the clutch too early had the revs soaring and pulling it in too late meant the back wheel could lock up,
So you can really get an instant reading? I figured it was a general fueling/health check.
See that's why I gotta ask I learn so much here.
-
Hopefully this will show up never attached a photo like this. Sorry Jaap I never read the proper procedure. Anyway 800-1k mi. Little bit of stickiness on em. I always try to use ethanol free gas. I thought they looked ok maybe a little rich. Opinions?.....
Sorry I can't figure out how to resize. No big deal.
-
The $4300 is retail value w/ no damage. Bike will go for $1500-2000 is my guess.
-
if anyone out west is looking for some cheap good parts might be worth a look. http://www.copart.com/c2/homeSearch.html?_eventId=getLot&execution=e1s1&lotId=27308343&returnPage=SEARCH_RESULTS
-
Stumbled across this recently. 7.1% alcohol. My tongue went numb. Imported from the States (MA). Not a session beer !
Possibly you're familiar with the Welsh artist, Ralph Steadman who does all the illustrations for Flying Dog brewery... Good stuff try the french farmhouse ale. I forget the name but it's tasty.
-
Sweet! Thanks guys, I can't lie it does smell pretty good too!
Pirelli Report
in Technical Topics
Posted
I'm really getting along well with this tire, my only complaint thus far is I've only put about 600 miles on it. I also wish I would have ponied up and replaced the front too (which has a lot of tread left) but I'm cheap.