moto fugazzi

I have a newer odyssey battery as well, but try it with a fully charged battery-it worked for me. Think about it, you have a 55w headlight on when you write a new map. That's quite a draw, plus the other electronics that are on when you turn on the ignition switch. A fully charged battery with the tender on it when I uploaded my new maps eliminated my cold start issues, and that's with the same base map that I sent to you. Hope this helps, and keep me posted. Ken

I have a newer odyssey battery as well, but try it with a fully charged battery-it worked for me. Think about it, you have a 55w headlight on when you write a new map. That's quite a draw, plus the other electronics that are on when you turn on the ignition switch. A fully charged battery with the tender on it when I uploaded my new maps eliminated my cold start issues, and that's with the same base map that I sent to you. Hope this helps, and keep me posted. Ken

FWIW, I installed a new map on Sunday, and the bike was hard to start, but I did have a partially drained battery. I put the battery tender on it last night, and left it plugged in while I reinstalled the map, and the bike fired right up. Not sure if you're having fueling issues, or if the map isn't loading properly due to a low battery, but you may want to look into that first before you start changing your map too much. Also, check for any faults with GD, as bad sensors will cause the bike to run rich. Ken

No idea why it only affected the cold start map-it's most curious. I also fully charged the battery before uploading. I know my dealer always connects a battery tender to my bike when he connects with Axone or P.A.D.S as he said the battery drains fairly quickly when using these. The new XDF can be obtained from the Guzzidiag site. It's towards the bottom (V2.28, and don't get the old Quota one by mistake). http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ Ken p.s. Also keep in mind that if you're getting pinging at 60% throttle, you'll have to go as low as the 36.8 column for retarding the timing.

I downloaded the current XDF and the newest version of Tunerpro and installed a modified map Thursday night. 3 cold starts so far, and the bike fires right up, just like it does with the stock ECU installed. So far, so good... I did make sure my LED lights were off during the new map being loaded, as they seem to affect the voltage in a weird way. I also read that some HID lights do the same. Ken

Interestingly enough, I tried adding 3 to each fuel cell of the warm up map on my V7C, and it wouldn't start after that. I sent my map to Paul, and he said other maps were altered as well (which I didn't change). He told me to make sure I was using the latest XDF. I was also on Tunerpro's website, and they have had several updates since I downloaded the program last year, and many of those were bug fixes. I'm going to download the latest Tunerpro and XDF and start fresh. I've also been using Windows XP on my old laptop, and I wonder if that could be an issue as well. I report back later when I can get this done. Ken

Any progress?

If you need relays, contact Pyro Dan. http://dpguzzi.com Ken

I don't know, but why chance it? A search on this site will probably give you the proper answer. Ken

The manual one won't quit on you when you're in the middle of nowhere. That looks just like the one I bought (from MG Cycles) to replace the electronic one. Looks to be a bit cheaper (price wise) from MI as well. I think the extra $7 is for the fancy watermark on the website. http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=30&products_id=39 Ken

I'd recommend getting Guzzidiag so you can check any faults within the ECU. If you're handy with a multimeter, go with Huberts idea. How long did it take the plugs to go black from completely new? Ken

Are both plugs black? How long did it take to get to that blackness? Black normally means too rich, so I'm wondering if it's leaky fuel injectors (chances of both of them leaking should be low) or a bad fuel regulator. If it was just one side, I would think maybe a bad coil. If you take off the caps on the vacuum ports where you connect the hoses to balance TB's, how much fuel pours out of those? FWIW, you can buy a fuel pressure tester from HF http://www.harborfreight.com/fuel-injection-pump-tester-92699.html And I think if you need a new regulator, you can pick them up from your local H-D dealer for pretty cheap. Ken

Some of the V11's have different size front bearings. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18641 From Chamberlin: I looked up the '99-'01 manual as well as the '01 - '02 manual, and those solid axle models also use two different bearings, the same 20x52x15 and 25x52x15 bearings as I am now using on my Ohlins setup. So it seems that only the newer '03+ hollow axle bikes have a matching pair of front wheel bearings (25x52x15). Ken

I wonder if a piece of carbon broke loose and is now stuck to a valve edge, not allowing the valve to close completely? A leakdown test would determine that. Or, maybe a treatment of Chevron Techron would clean up the rest of it and get rid of the black smoke. It cleared the carbon out of my system. Hope this helps, Ken

Maybe some of that stuff is still on what's left of the carbon? There might be a fair amount of carbon on the valve stems that's still burning off. You probably have 10+ years of carbon build up. I'd get the engine good and hot and run at higher RPM's for a bit, and bring it up to redline a few times. I thought I also read somewhere that you should change your oil after running Yamaha's treatment. Ken

Have you balanced your TB's after the treatment? There's a chance the Yamaha cleaner may have cleaned out your TB's so well that they are now out of balance. If they were balanced with one of them being partially clogged, then that could be the issue. It's a long shot, but worth checking. Ken

I'm an idiot. When running the power wires for the new ESR510, I disconnected the air temp sensor (to route the wires better) and forgot to plug it back in. I realized it last night, and plugging it back in with the fuel tank on and a hot engine was painful. That AFR meter is a blessing and a curse at the same time... Ken

I found this the other day: http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/eme-h-o-charging-system-upgrade/

The starter is fine-I'm just having issues trying to start it after Guzzidiag. I connected the diode and caps last weekend, and it seemed to help a little. It seems like the main thing that helped was the ESR510, but that caused the bike to run a little richer, but I decreased CO with Guzzidiag, and it's back in line. Most curious that a new voltage regulator would make the bike run richer, and I verified it on 2 different ECUs. Without the additional circuit and the new VR, the AFR meter reads a little higher when the aux. lights are turned on, and with the circuit, it's even a little less, and sometimes even no change. Doesn't seem to be any kind of consistency here. Ken

I have a stock map for a 2001 V11 Sport. PM me off list, and I can email it to you. Ken

I have a stock map for a 2001 V11S if you need one. PM me off list, and I can email it to you. Ken

I have the same exact issue at startup. I retarded the timing a bit above 4k at heavy throttle and changed the cold start map to 2000 revolutions. My bike is hard to start, and once it starts, it runs rough for a bit (very lean on my AFR meter). After about 30 seconds, the bike runs fine. I reloaded the same map, and new versions of it several times, and still the same issue. I have a spare ECU I bought from a member here, and if I put that in, the bike fires right up and runs great. Ken

Electrosport sent an outdated version, as I sent it in to be tested by them. They replaced it with the current version, and it seems fine so far...except for the fact that my bike is now running a tad bit on the rich side according to my AFR meter. Ken

No, it doesn't defeat the battery light. With the old ESR510, the battery light would go on anytime my voltage dropped below 14.1, and that was VERY annoying. If your regulator is up to snuff, I wouldn't recommend changing it, but if it dies on you, it may be a worthwhile upgrade. I'm tempted to go with this upgrade from Guzzitech: http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/eme-h-o-charging-system-upgrade/ as it would give me all of the power that I would need for add ons. If Guzzi doesn't offer a comparable bike to mine in 2015, I'll probably get this system and keep my bike for quite a while. Ken

No the ESR connects directly to the battery pos and neg, but you still use the existing yellow wires and the wires for the charge light indicator. It's a fun little project to take off the tank and run the wires up front to the new regulator. Ken