moto fugazzi

You or your friend can pull the injector and bench test it. It could be plugged up or maybe the wires going to it broke. Also, check that the connecting rod between the two injectors is still connected. That would keep a good portion of fuel from getting to the cylinder, but then you'd probably notice a gas leak somewhere else. Ken

Just a small update here. I went for a long ride Saturday and noticed that my volt meter was reading 15.2V after I changed to Halogen headlight and aux. lights. When I turned on the high beam and lights, the VM quickly started dropping below 12.6V. I went back home and replaced the stock regulator with the Electrosport ESR510, and my lot readings are now at a more consistent 14.1-14.4, but the charging system still couldn't handle the halogen headlight and aux lights, so I changed back to LEDs. I noticed my bike also runs a tad bit richer (now at 13.0 AFR vs. the previous 13.3), and when the aux lights are turned on, the AFR jumps up momentarily, but then seems to settle back down to where it was. I should have the caps and scohttky in soon, so I'll see how that affects everything. So far, it seems like the ESR is helping the bike run better. This is a replacement regulator for the one they sent to me a few years ago, and didn't work properly. That thread is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18194&hl=esr510 Ken

The battery is an odyssey, just over a year old. I just ordered parts, so it will be at least a week.. In the meantime, I replaced the aux lights and headlight with halogen bulbs, but left the dimmer module in place. I'll give it a test later today to see if: 1) the bike runs normal, 2)The charging system can handle the load. I wonder if these LED's have been what's causing issues with my Guzzidiag reflashes? If it's affecting the FI, what else is it affecting? Ken

No, this is a high frequency filter, which filters HF - Transients with minimal power but a wide frequency-spectrum and shortens them to ground. Another idea would be to use my schematic on the ECU to provide stable voltage for it (injector timing is voltage dependent !!) . Use it for pin 17 of the ECU and relay No. 49 . Fuse F1 -> Schottky -> Electrolytic 10.000 uF with 1nF in parallel to negative ground -> Relay pin 30 + ECU pin 17. Gunther In trying this idea, can I insert the Schottky into fuse F1 and run the caps to negative ground instead of taping into the wiring harness? That would just be temporary until I make sure it works correctly. Or do I need to go closer to the relay? Thanks again for all of the help!

Out of curiosity, will this setup be similar to what noise filters do for car radios? I have one of those laying around, plus it's in a nice case. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_003S10A/American-International-S-10A.html?tp=61807 Also, the dimmer module is right next to the ECU. Could moving or shielding it make a difference?

I just want to clarify before I get all of the parts. What is the thick black line at the bottom where C1 and C2 connect to?, and then there's a line that goes to the load. Where exactly does that get connected? Would I be better off just replacing the regulator with the Electrosport ESR510? Ken After talking to my electronics friend, I understand now. The caps bleed off extra volts to ground, and the diode keeps it from feeding back to the supply.

Any idea what rating these should be? Electorlytic capacitor, I'm assuming (wired in parallel with each other)? Ken

Thanks Roy, I was hoping you'd give me some insight here. After calling the seller of the aux. light module, he told me that the aux. lights should automatically go on when the bike is on, and they don't do that. He also recommended putting a diode on the high beam bypass as maybe some current is feeding back through the module. He's now sending a replacement, and I'll see how that works out. Like I mentioned before, the bike only runs poorly when I'm using the module with the high beam bypass on. After I disconnected it, I was able to run the bike with the high beams on, aux. lights at full brightness, and heated grips at full max, and the VM was still over 14 volts, and the bike ran great. I'll post more findings after I install the new module. Last year I took apart the ignition switch, cleaned everything, and used vaseline as you recommended. I now have a big jar of it in my garage as well as a few assorted sizes of artists paintbrushes for applying it. My friends always ask why I have a giant jar of vaseline next to my motorcycles... On a side note, I was getting pinging from 3-6k (60%+ throttle), and after retarding the timing with Guzzidiag, my bike now runs great! The warm up map can now also be reduced as far as how long it stays on. Very cool. Ken

Here's an odd situation. My bike runs perfectly until I use the high beam, which has LED Aux lights connected with a relay, which causes them to go to full brightness. My voltmeter reads 14.1-14.2v with just the low beam on, then it jumps up to 14.4-14.5v when the high beam w/aux lights. BUT, my AFR meter also changes from 13.5:1 to 14.0:1, and the bike runs lean at that point, and therefore runs like garbage. When I turn on my Oxford heated grips, the voltmeter drops to 12.7 instantly. When the heated grips and/or the Aux lights are used (either by themselves or together), the voltmeter remains at 14.1 and the bike runs perfectly. Here's the info on the bike: 2001 V11 Sport Stock Regulator, headlight wired up normally from the factory Trucklite Phase 7 Headlamp: 22W (1.8A) low beam, 44W (3.6A)high beam LED Aux Lights 28W each-56W (4.8A)total draw. Wired to a Fuzeblock, high beam relay wire is taken from the headlight switch. Here: http://stores.advmonster.com/waterproof-wireless-led-dimmer-with-high-beam-bypass/ Oxford Heated Grips 36W (3A) at max power Now I realize that all together, this is too much for the alternator, and the battery will drain. But why would the Volts go up to 14.5V when I turn on the aux lights and high beams? Then drop to 12.7 when I add the heated grips? Ken Edit: After disconnecting the aux lights, they seem to be the issue as far as the lean running goes. I disconnected them, and went for another ride, and when I turn on the high beams, the volt meter jumps to 14.6V. When the heated grips are turned on, the volts drop a little. When I reconnected the aux lights and had them on at 100% with the low beam, the VM read 14.5, but the bike started running very lean again. Update: Last night I removed the high beam relay feed for the aux lights and took it for a ride today. Turned on the high beams, the aux lights, then heated grips, and the VM was still over 14.0. Somehow the lighting control unit was wreaking havoc with everything else (at least the high beam bypass circuit), but now all is well. So why does voltage increase from 14.1 to 14.6V when I turn on the high beam?

After comparing BIN files on my 2001 V11S and an EV, they are almost identical except for the ignition map. Is there any reason I can't use the map on my V11S? The excessive pinging is driving me crazy, and after a day of trying the EV ignition map, I've had no pinging whatsoever, although the bike bike doesn't seem as "peppy". I could also run some lower octane fuel as a result of this since fresh premium grade petrol is hard to find in Milwaukee. Here's the ignition map postings. V11S map EV map Difference

Went to see them in Bradford UK in about '81. Not an experience I would repeat, sorry. Out of curiosity, why? Looks like Nik Turners Hawkwind is on tour again this year. http://ultimateclassicrock.com/nik-turners-hawkwind-2014-tour/ Ken

The first question I asked the bearing guy was "where is it made?" When he said Japan, and has been selling these for years without issue, I was sold on them. That shop has been around forever and has a great reputation. Ken

The mechanic changing my tire and bearings was so befuddled as to what was happening. With the larger inner diameter on the right side bearing (should have been the smaller size), the axle shoulder kept going into the bearing, and the wheel was loose. He took it all apart a few times, knowing that he had put it together properly the first time, but was so confused. Glad I told the mechanic to match the bearings up before he started, just be sure, but he only checked the one side, figuring all was good. I finally walked in the shop and figured out what was wrong, so he sent me to the local bearing shop on a loaner BMW 800GT, for the proper bearing. Those bearings were totally rusted into place, and I'm glad I took it there for them to get them out, but from what I can tell, a person could use the wheel spacer to take out the bearings instead of using a puller. The mechanic used anti seize on the new bearings for when we have to change them in another 10 years or so. Ken

Had a new Angel GT front tire put on my 2001 V11 Sport today, and figured it was a good time to change the wheel bearings as well. I found some Nachi bearings locally (made in Japan) for $13 each, and realized my bike is actually much easier to push around the garage now. The old ones were fairly "notchy", so I'm glad I replaced them. Stupidly enough, the front wheel takes 2 different sizes. I did the rear wheel last winter with SKF bearings which ended up being about $30 each and made in Bulgaria. Ken

I also heard not to jump or bump start bikes with ECUs because the sudden voltage spike could fry the ECU. I do agree with what Hubert said. IIRC, there's also some kind of warning in my newer cars manual about jump starting as well. Being automatic, I don't think bump starting is an option. Ken

I tried opening up the "snorkels" on my V11 Sport as per details here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=918&hl=snorkels&page=6 The issue I had was the my bike would run leaner when I rode faster (I have an AFR gauge on my bike). I have since put the stock air box lid back on, and use a paper filter. Ken

I think the initial problem was with the connection at the tranny, and the linkage being connected on the outboard side of the pedal. I think the nut at the tranny connection was hitting the tranny, and therefore not allowing full downward movement on the pedal, and the linkage connection on the outboard side was causing it to bind up. Here's a pic of how it's connected now. Due to the aftermarket rod being too short, I can't get the parallelogram, but shifting is near perfect with nice short throws. I'm debating getting a longer rod and installing the proper way. Ken

I didn't think that rod was standard, but anyway, I think I nailed it thanks to help from Docc and Hubert. I owe you guys big time again! Time for a longer test ride. Ken

Thanks for the info! If you or someone else gets a chance, could you post a pic of a properly installed pedal with linkage? Ken

Pic #2

Can anyone confirm that this linkage is connected properly? The dealer replaced the aftermarket parts with the stock parts on when he changed the shift return spring. Doesn't seem like anything is binding, but I want to eliminate everything to salve the issue of rough downshifting. Upshifting takes very little movement and effort, but downshifting is a pain that includes false neutrals, a lot of movement, and it won't downshift several gears at a time (I have to preload the clutch every time). The lever is not hitting the pork chop, and I adjusted the eccentric screw up to 1/2 turns in each direction. Does this look normal? The linkage connection towards the rear of the bike has an allen head and locknut, but there is a bushing in there, and it doesn't seem to be binding.

That's the first thing I did, and have checked several times. There's about 1/4" clearance between the lever and the pork chop when the lever is all of the way down. Seems like upshifting takes very little movement, and downshifting takes quite a bit. Ken

Upshifts are nice and clean, and downshifts are sloppy. If I come to a stop in 3rd gear or higher, I can usually only downshift to one lower gear. I've been having to downshift, then let out the clutch a little, then I can down shift again, then repeat the procedure. I used to be able to get to first from any of the higher gears without issues-sometimes you don't have the luxury of downshifting properly in a panic stop situation... Can I adjust this without taking the cover off and centering it? If so, how much do you think the screw should be turned at any given time? 1/4 turn? 2 full turns? Ken

Where is the eccentric screw? Is it on the inside or outside of the tranny? My downshifts aren't very good (a few false neutrals at times), and it may need to be adjusted. The dealer just replaced all of my clutch parts and installed a new shift return spring. Ken

I hope that's not one of the batteries that's prone to start on fire! I'd start with the basics first: TPS reset, balance throttle bodies. Somehow my tb's got out of whack over winter, and the bike seemed like it was fighting itself until I balanced them. What's that tube coming out of the pod filter? That could be your huckleberry depending on where it's coming from or going to. I'm assuming that's from the engine breather at the base of the engine? Is it split in two, and the other hose is going to the other pod? You can always wrap some duct tape over part of the pod to reduce air if you want to see if that changes how the bike runs over 5k. Could be just sucking in too much air. Can you describe how the bike runs over 5k? What's it doing exactly, and with how much throttle being used. If it has the manual petcock, make sure it's opened all of the way. Ken