moto fugazzi

I have a truckle LED headlight which draws about 20W instead of the stock headlights 55W. Every little bit helps, but it is a $200 headlight, and it doesn't fit in the stock V11 bucket, but I had one off of an old Yamaha laying around. My stock Bosch headlight lens was getting cloudy on the inside anyway. Ken

I didn't have a check valve in my 2001 V11S, but I'm not the original owner. I don't think the PO had the breather hose off at any time. Ken

I bought the Trucklite, and had to use the headlight shell from an old Yamaha that I had. The review is here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17838&hl=trucklite Ken

The PCIII is nice because it adjusts fuel at 250K intervals, whilst the ECU has different intervals-it's easier to make the fuel flow more consistent. I've been using Guzzidiag and Tunerpro a little bit, mostly just adjusting spark advance to eliminate pinging. I'd like to change the temp cutoff for the warmup map, and I'm told you can also change the fueling based on engine temps (my bike gets leaner as the engine gets really hot). I've been poking around looking thru Tunerpro, but have found out how to change those settings yet. Ken

I didn't know that could be done with Guzzidiag. How is that done exactly? Ken

The warmup map is on from startup until about 90C (somewhere in that range). Even if you only shut the bike off for 5 min, it will go into warmup mode again (at least that's what my dealer told me). The first PCIII map that was for me was during the warmup map. The person that made the first map for me was unaware of the startup map, and my V11S ran like garbage once it was fully warmed up. I'd hate to see the same thing happen to you. Ken

Just make sure they have the bike fully warmed up when they put it on the Dynojet tuner, otherwise the map will be next to useless. They did that to my bike, and I had to take it back for a 2nd try. Ken

Thanks for the tip, Roy. I only used bullet connectors because that's what Electrosport had on the end of the R/R. The ends I put on the other wires were well crimped and soldered. I used to work for a loudspeaker factory years ago making wiring harnesses (I've literally crimped thousands of connectors during my 12 years there). I even used heavier gauge wire than what was attached to the ESR510. My guess at this point is that the bullet connectors couldn't handle the current flow. I really like the materials used were the error rather than my work. I hope I don't sound too arrogant with that statement, but if there's anything I can do well, it's electrical connectors and soldering. I did clean all of the connections again for the Ducati R/R, but I'll keep an eye on it anyway. Perhaps I'll pick up some new high power waterproof connectors and try again with the ESR over winter. Ken

Connections were tight. I checked them several times, and I've read that people have had the 30 amp fuses blow, and connecters melted. With the stock regulator in place, charging is better than the ESR510, and I don't have that annoying warning light go on whenever the RPM's drop under 3K. Ken

Here's the wires that went to the battery:

Today I put in a known good stock regulator. Charging is good (voltage is higher than what the ESR510 put out). Maybe these pics will explain my issue. The gold contacts were good, but the clear insulation boots around the bullet connectors are turning black from either heat or too much current. Ken

Hubert, I was thinking that the control wire (white wire) was a ground wire that completed the warning light circuit, but I'm probably understanding that wrong. Roy, the lamp does go out when the white wire s disconnected. I do have my voltmeter connected to the fuel pump relay, so it is a bit downstream. A voltmeter on the battery reads .2-.3V higher. It was too dark to get my multimeter display in the video. Electrosport does have a good fault finding chart and test for their R/R. http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/diagnosis-center I'm sure they'll test it for me if I send it in, but my voltages were much higher last night, so maybe the low voltage the other day was just some weird anomaly. If the issue happens again, I'll put in my old Ducati R/R and send the 510 back to them for testing. I'm off for a short test ride now before work and the possible T-storms roll in. Ken

That cable should be the ground wire from what I understand. The R/R goes to ground when under 13.4V and completes the circuit. Disconnecting the wire keeps the light off. Maybe I'm wrong? I'm just starting to get a grasp on how this all works... Here's a short video I made with the voltmeter. It actually seems much better than the other night, but notice how the light gets brighter when I "blip" the throttle-maybe thats just the R/R kicking in from keeping the voltage from getting too high.

Here's my answers from Electrosport: "The way the light works on this bike is by having the regulator switch its ground connection on/off. So, on one end of the light should be a switched 12v power supply wire feeding power to the light anytime the key is in the on position. This light should then have an exclusive ground wire that is not shared with any other devices which runs directly into the reg/rect. If the light will not turn off, there is a good chance it is grounding somewhere else on the bike outside the regulator. I've yet to have one of these regulators have a fault light mechanism. Its possible that it could just be a bad switch inside the reg/rect, but not likely. If the stator is doing well, and the reg/rect's diode are doing well, there could possibly be an issue with your wiring harness or battery not accepting a charging. Or maybe you have a lot of electrical accessories demanding too much power?" Anybody know if the warning light has it's own ground? I think I have my old regulator, but I need to test it again. I think I get an OL for one of the diode tests if I move the wire around a bit. If it tests good, then I'll install it and see what happens. I'm not too worried about the 13.7V yet. Not until winter comes and I use my heated grips and aux. lights at night. That will drop the voltage quite a bit. Ken

I don't have the 30A fuse installed. IIRC, I was told it wasn't needed with the 510 and it's not on their wiring diagram. Should I add a fuse? Maybe I'll pull apart the connectors for a better look. They're zip tied to the frame under the tank, and the connection looked good thru the clear insulator boots. While I'm at it, I'll rewire it so the connectors are more easily accessible and I'll use a heavier gauge wire (I think I used 12 ga. on the extension wires from the battery to the r/r). Ken electrosport-esr510-fitting-instructions copy.pdf

I have The Electrosport ESR510 in my 2001 V11S. The other day my Gen. warning light came on at full brightness even though my voltmeter was reading 13.7V. Since that episode, I've noticed that my Vmeter never got above 13.7, and drops to 11.9V at idle. The Vmeter used to read 14V at 3k rpm+ and 12.4V at idle. I did the diode test on the R/R, and it passed, 80VAC measured at the alternator, and basically I did all of Kiwi Roy's tests and Electrosports tests as well, and everything passed. All grounds are good (2 grounds on the R/R), and very little resistance on the red wire from the R/R to the battery. Westco battery is 6 mo. old, and seems fine-it does take and hold a charge from my trickle charger. I'm not sure what else to test at this point. Could the R/R just start putting out less voltage on it's own? Ken

I had the tough shifting problem shortly after buying my 2001 V11S. Greasing the linkage took care of that. Also, there is a ball check valve that resides in the base of the oil breather hose at the engine. Make sure it's not seized. I bought mine from MG Cycles: Ken EDIT: 10-28-2013: A deeper look revealed no check valve. Apparently, this was "done away with" on the V11. More discussion on this thread: Bell Housing Leak

I'd put as much penetrating oil as you can for a few days to try and get the studs and nuts off. Wouldn't hurt to heat them up like gstallons recommended. You're kind of screwed (or un-screwed) if one of those studs breaks off in the head. I broke one years ago, and tried an easy out which just shattered in the broken bolt. Not a fun time-nearly impossible to drill out at that point. Good luck with the project and keep us posted. Ken

Stopped for a quick pic on my way to the WI MG Rally.

As long as you're cleaning connections, and checking that yellow wire, why not find out where that cut wire belongs too? What color is it? I'm sure it'd be easy enough to find on the wiring diagram. I'd also add a ground wire to the regulator casing if you haven't done so already. Ken

I have a 2004 V11 Le-mans with a K+N air filter and a pair of Mistral slip ons, the bike has the usual V11 cough down low and stammers around 2500 to 3000 revs. Would you know if a Power Commander is available for my model as Dyno Jet dont appear to list one for a bike of my age!! Many thanks in advance. Martin.. http://www.powercommander.com/powercommander/powercommanders.aspx?mk=30&mdl=253&yr=2001&pc=706&mk-n=Moto%20Guzzi&mdl-n=V11%20Sport&pc-ver=411&prod-type=Powercommander%20III%20USB You may not need the PCIII. If you do get it, I would recommend getting a custom map using tuning link (Dynoject software). My dealer solved most of my stumbling issues by adjusting the CO trim. He sets the CO to 4.0ppm . I believe factory setting is 2.0 Ken

I have a spare if you are in desperate need of one. If you're not in a huge hurry, you can buy a Ducati 15M (usually under $100 USD) and reflash it with Guzzidiag and the proper V11 map. I have over 2,500 miles on my Ducati ECU, and it has run flawlessly. More info here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865 Ken

Thanks to Kyle at Electrosport, I was able to connect the Gen. light back up. The white wire (female connector) goes to the male connector on the 2 wire connector. The problem is, the Gen light goes on faintly at 13.3V and get brighter as the voltage drops. So the light stays on for just about all congested city driving. Anybody know of a way to change the point of when the light goes on? Perhaps adding a resistor or diode inline? Worst case, I can just disable the Gen light at this point. Ken

Glad you got your issue fixed! The airbox isn't hard to remove, but it is a little tedious. Keep in mind the intake roar with be quite loud (a think it sounds amazing), and the side panels attached the to airbox will have to be removed unless you fabricate mounts for them. Someone here has done that, and you should be able to find the post with a bit of searching. Ken

What are you doing when the bike hiccups at 3-4k? Are you using slight throttle at cruising speeds, or is it moderate or heavy acceleration? I noticed on my AFR meter that there are huge lean spots at 2.8k, 4k and 4.2k, and it's not really noticeable unless you're cruising exactly at those RPM's for a little bit of time. Keep in mind the the factory tach (at least on my bike) reads about 200 rpms higher than my digital tach. Your bike may vary. Ken