moto fugazzi

Thanks for the info! Did you get the Kevlar or Sintered HH pads? Ken

Does anybody know which wires to connect for the charging light? I have 1 white wire from the regulator, and from the original harness, I have a 2 wire connector (1 red w/blackstripe (labeled R-N), 1 blue wire (labeled AZ)) and one other single wire that is green/red. I'm guessing the white wire from the regulator goes to the blue (AZ) wire, and a ground wire to the red/black (R-N) wire. Ken Edit: Here's a note from Kyle at Electrosport. The white wire acts as a switched ground. When the voltage is above about 13 volts, internally the reg/rect breaks the white wires connection to ground, and when voltage is below about 13 it connects the white wire internally to ground. You should have a single ground wire for your warning light in your harness, this wire needs to be connected to my units white wire. Once attached the light will be switch on/off of ground appropriately, and the light will work as it should. Anybody know which is the ground wire? V11regdiagra.pdf

Low and high at night:

Low and high during the day. Low is kind of inconspicuous, so I usually turn on the aux lights during the day.

I'm told you can buy a repair kit from an auto parts store. I bought an entire cable from MG Cycle. Here's my old thread on the cable: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17453&hl=%2Bv11+%2Bspeedo Ken

Here's 2 more pics. One with the aux lights and high beams, and the other showing the "cutoff" of the low beam. It's nice and even, and I've only had 1 car flash their brights at me.

Just an update. I really like the Trucklite, but it's not perfect by any means. The color is a little odd, and the lowbeam doesn't seem to cut thru a heavy downpour at night as well as I'd like it to. Switching to highbeams does help, and I'm careful not to offend oncoming traffic. It does throw a nice wide beam of light, and works very well with my ADVMonster LED aux lights with remote control and auto highbeam bypass system. If you connect it properly, the aux lights go to full bright when the high beams are activated. Otherwise, you can set the aux lights for any brightness with the remote control. It's very cool. http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-LED-Controls/Categories.bok I also have the model 60 LED's on my V11S-they're almost too bright when full on, and the model 44's I have on my V7C are perfect. http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-LED-Lights/Categories.bok Here's a few pics I took with the low and high beam on in the middle of nowhere. It was pitch black when I took these pics. They are the low and high beams. It's actually much better than the camera phone indicate.

Damn. I'm in Milwaukee and the closest they'll be is in Chicago, but I'll be in Minneapolis that day for a work conference. BTW, I hate Chicago (mostly the traffic). Ken

I have one of these. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=701625 Works great, and also tells your RPM's (based on the impulses from the TB's). I also have a motion pro, and it works well, but you have to calibrate it every time before you use it. Not hard to do, but it adds a little more time to the process. Ken

Is there a leak in the cap or hose that you used on the "nipple" where you connect the carb sync tool? Ken

Did you put the caps (or hose) back on the TB's after you synched it? That could cause the stumble. Caps or hoses on those can crack easily due to the cylinder heat. Double check the sync. Movement on the one cylinder gauge kind of worries me. Sounds like they're out of balance and fighting with each other. Are there reducers for your sync hoses to reduce the jumpiness? If so, were they in those testing hoses? Worst case, put things back how they were and give it a try. Ken

Check out my problem with my 2009 V7C. http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=58887.0 It took a lot to get my dealer to even look at mine. I did send an email to MGNA, and got a reply about 2 weeks later, and I think they called the dealer to get things moving faster. Maybe your dealer is afraid of slow reimbursement from MG? Maybe they're busy from regular repairs of people that are paying outright? The dealer did have my parts within 3-5 days of ordering. Ken

At least some on Dave's bike will live on with my V11. Hope all is well with you, Dave! I know what it's like. I totaled my custom made (by me) Yamaha cafe racer a few years back, and all of the parts went to a good home while I recovered from a broken wrist and damaged knee. Ken

Currently, I might only need the main harness and various parts, I think. Sometimes my bike won't start, and I found out if I turn the handlebars to the right a little, it will start. I'm assuming there's a break in the wire at the steering neck, but it could be almost anywhere. 95% of the time it starts fine with the handlebars all the way to the left, but sometimes it doesn't. Hard to pinpoint the problem when it's not consistent. This weekend, I'll check the connection to the starter switch on the handlebar. I'd rather not have to replace the entire harness, or scab in one broken wire. I figure if one wire is bad at the steering neck, the others are probably soon to follow. They sure take a lot of flexing over the years. Ken

So then I'm assuming the 2000 wiring harness will fit on my 2001, since all they made were V11 Sports those years (99-01)?

I didn't think they had a LeMans then, but that's what the auction is listed as. It's Dave's (from this forum) bike. I'll have to check with a dealer. Ken

Does anybody happen to know if a 2000 V11 Lemans wiring harness is the same as a 2001 V11 Sport? Ken

I just checked again, and I do connect using Com6. Don't ask me how to configure it, since I'm bad with PC's.

I'll see how it runs with the Mistral fitted. I'm guessing that if the CO is set too low the bike may run too lean in parts of the range - is that right? One of the guys at the club said to run the new setup for a few days to let things settle in before messing with the ECU, as it can adjust to the new setup. As I have no Lambda sensor on mine I can't quite see how that might work magic perhaps, but who am I to argue when it comes to ECUs - all magic as far as I'm concerned... There's a front moving over today so not the best riding weather for testing and it may take me a few days to get out on the road to do so. Andy Yes, the CO being too low will cause the bike to run lean in certain areas. I'm sure you'll figure out if it's lean when you ride it for a few days-poping on decel, pinging at certain RPM's, etc. At least you'll be able to see what the CO is set at once you get Guzzidiag connected. I believe that section is found in the "view" tab. I hope Paul's guy gets it fixed soon so that we can adjust it, and just so you know, the bike operating temp needs to be at least 80 Celsius to make the adjustment. I would also think that you could bump up the CO setting a little at a time if the bike is running lean, and that could smooth it out some. docc has his set at 0, and the dealer set mine at +10. IIRC, increasing the CO also raised the idle, so we had to adjust the TPS and idle screws a bit to get the idle down again. Ken

You may not need to mess with the ECU, but I would recommend setting the CO properly like my dealer did to mine. He set it at 4.0 (I think the factory setting is 2.0), and it should be something you can do yourself once they get the setting fixed on the Guzzidiag program. Paul is aware of this, and I'm told they'll be fixing it soon... Anyway, you'll need to borrow a CO meter, or take the bike to a shop where they have one (auto shops have them as well), and set it properly with Guzzidiag. A good Guzzi dealer should be able to set this up in less than 20 minutes as long as they have the proper diagnostic tools (PADS or Axone) . There's a good chance that you won't need to do the CO trim if your bike was set up properly to begin with, so my ramblings may be wasted here. You'll know when you take the bike for a ride. All the best, Ken

The alligator clips go to the battery. I had to have my friend configure one of my USB ports to Comm 6 (I think it was 6?, maybe it was 4) and set the data rate in order for it to connect. He had to use google translate in order to find out what everything meant. I'm running XP on my laptop. It also seems that you have to turn on the ignition as soon as it prompts you to. Also, check the site in case you have FTDI driver issues. There are 2 versions depending on what chip you have in the cable. http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ The software is nice to monitor your bike: you can set the TPS, clear any ECU errors, etc. Ken

I had problems trying to adjust the PCIII based on the AFR as well. I ended up marking the throttle for the throttle percentage and watching the AFR to make corrections. It was very slow going and inaccurate (very slight difference between 5 and 10% throttle, not to mention the OEM Tach is off by a few hundred RPMs), so I ended up buying the LCD-100 display for the PCIII which shows throttle position, RPM, and the map adjustments. I then borrowed my friends GoPro to record the AFR and LCD display to create the perfect map. It's time consuming, but fun. I can also preload the LCD100 with several maps and change them as I ride. It's nice to have a performance map and a fuel efficient map. Dynojet now makes an AFR meter that connects to the LCD-100 and PCIII so that everything can be monitoring on 1 screen, and you can record your rides and put all of that info into an excel file to build a custom map. The downside is that once you buy all of those components, you could have spent the same money on the PCV and Autotune. Ken Here's a pic of my experiment when I was using my iphone to record it. A little blurry, but useable.

I haven't had pinging with real ethanol free premium gas yet this year, and the places that carry it are at least 45 minutes away from me. At least they're in nice riding areas once I get there. I know you have MYECU. Have you adjusted the timing at all? Ken

I tried running the bike without the snorkels, but the bike always ran leaner the faster I went, so I put them back on. I did move the air temp sensor to the front of the bike under the headlight, and everything seems to be good now. For the heck of it, I put the heat gun on the sensor, and the RPM's rose to over 1300RPM when the sensor went over 120f. Went back to 1150 when I cooled it down with a fan. Makes sense why I was getting the high idle in stop and go city riding. We'll see how things pan out over the next week or so. Ken

OK. I rode around all morning yesterday to burn thru the tank of ethanol gas in order to fill up with real gas. Shortly after running on real gas, the bike started running perfect again. Makes me wonder if I just had 2 bad tanks of high ethanol gas (I think they use a "summer" blend in Wisconsin after memorial day) or if the tune up we did using real gas will make that much of a difference...time will tell after a few more tankfulls. I also hooked up a new air temp sensor before the ride yesterday. I didn't feel like taking off the tank, so I just plugged in a new sensor and zip tied it in place near the old sensor. I think I'll try Kiwi Roy's method of mounting the sensor up front away from the engine. I noticed that when I rode in city traffic at low speeds, the idle would climb up to 1400RPM at stop lights. It was down to 1150RPM when not doing slow stop and go city riding. When I installed the stock airbox lid, I installed the snorkels facing down. Is that how they are from the factory? The bike had pods on it when I bought it. Ken