moto fugazzi

I did check the 2 temp sensors last night when I replaced the crank sensor with a used spare I had. They both seem good, and resistance changes when subjected to hot and cold. I'll double check the TPS tonight when I can finally fire it up-didn't want to do that last night at midnight. The TPS is about 2 months old, so it should be good. I wish I would have checked the new crank sensor before I put it on. The old one didn't change much in resistance when I put it next to a piece of metal. It did read 638 ohms without being next to another piece of metal, and the new one was about the same. It sucked changing that sensor since they routed the wire through too many objects. Any idea what the sensor should read next to a piece of metal? Ken

There should be O rings at the T fittings. Your local NAPA should have them. It certainly isn't a picnic taking the injectors off. IIRC, there's a circlip that needs to be removed to remove the T fitting at the injector. If you're going to remove the injector for this, it wouldn't hurt to send them in for cleaning at that point. I sent mine to www.lindertech.com, and I think the total cost with shipping was around $80 for the pair. Did you use fuel injector clamps when replacing the hoses? They don't dig into the hoses like standard hose clamps do. Ken

A few weeks back, I had my bike running perfectly when I went to Rosefarm Classics. TPS reset, TB's balanced, CO set, Idle at 1150, etc. AFR on my meter was at 13.1 through most of the range. The other day, my bike started running at 13.7AFR or higher, pinging at moderate throttle between 3-5k, and the idle has gone up to 1300RPM, and the spark plugs are white. The bike does seem to run fine in the warm up mode. The bike is still at 3.6 for TPS, and no sensor faults according to VDST and Guzzidiag. I did notice the air temp was at 96f, but the outside air temp was 60f. The bike had been idling for a while at this point, and the airbox snorkels are right above the engine, so with the bike sitting there, that could be normal? What else could cause this sudden change? Possibly the crank sensor? I did clean it off earlier this year, and I don't know what the symptoms are when they go bad. Once is a while, I can get the idle back down to 1150 when I blip the throttle, but then it does go back up. I did check for intake and exhaust leaks, and nothing seems to be obstructing the throttle or linkage. This also happened about the time I refueled, so I drained the gas and put in some fresh premium. Any help would be appreciated. Ken

The PC3 probably won't do a whole lot of good unless you have a custom map made for it. My 2001 V11S ran so much better once I had my dealer setup everything properly (I have Stucchi X-over and Mistral silencers), then he put a CO meter on the bike and adjusted the CO trim to +10 (CO reading of 4.0). I did add my PC3 to his setup just to fine tune it since I already have one, an AFR meter, and the DJ LCD100 display. I had to add and subtract fuel in some places on the map, but in all honesty, it's probably not necessary since my bike runs so well after the setup. MPG also has gone from 33MPG to 39MPG after the dealer setup, but before I added the PC3. Ken

Moving the TPS will change your ignition tables. Maybe changing it to 4.6 at idle has advanced timing too much? I don't know. Guzzidiag will allow you to alter ignition. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865 How was the bike running before you removed the airbox? What made you relocate the fuel pump? Did you have issues with the heat, or were you just worried about potential vapor lock problems? Honestly, I would put the airbox back, set TPS to 3.6, and make sure the bike is set up properly. There's a reason they pay the engineers a lot of money to design engines that work properly, then people like me think we can make it run better...then my dealer sets up my bike, and it runs so much better. Ken

Since you already have the PCIII, why not use that? I'm sure dyno tuning would be cheaper than new carbs. Here's a link to PCIII maps here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1020 Just pick the map that has mods closest to your bike, and give them a try. You can always alter a map where the pinging is giving you problems, but without an AFR meter, you're just guessing at how much to add. Try a little bit of map alteration at a time, and save the newest version on your laptop. Ken

Check out this topic: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865 The "pitting" noise your talking about-does it sound like someone is shaking a spray paint can? Normally called pinging or pre-detonation. I've been going thru the same thing as you. Here's what I did: I put the stock airbox back on ( it used to have pods, then I tried an open airbox). 2 weeks ago, I took my bike to my dealer, and he set the TPS to 3.6, balanced throttle bodies, and used a CO2 meter in the tailpipe to set the level at 4.0 using the "fuel trim" level on his Guzzi software. Mine is set at +11 and the bike runs great, aside from a little pinging at 3k RPM. My dealer also adjusted the TB linkage because it was binding a little on the ball socket side. After all of this was done, my bike runs great, and I'm getting 39MPG (up from mid 30's). The power commander won't do you much good unless you take the bike in for a custom map. You might get close with some of their pre made maps, but all bikes are different. Ken

I did check the intake rubbers, and all seems well (no cracks on the inside, etc.). I did buy a new set from MG Cycles, but they don't seem to line up properly for some odd reason-I'll try again now that it's not 20f outside and I can heat them up a bit. I have the Stucchi Xover, and just sealed it up with some Wurth assembly paste. Basically, I can't find any air or exhaust leaks at this point. The AFR is at 13.1, so it shouldn't be lean, but I'll add fuel and give it another go. I've been carrying my laptop with me, so I change change maps in less that 1 minute. Ken

I have my 2001 V11S dialed in almost perfectly with the PCIII. One thing that I noticed is that the headers glow bright red, and the engine occasionally hesitates (cuts out or "hiccups") between 3K-3250RPM's. It doesn't do this at any other RPM's at all. The bike has been properly set up by my local dealer, AFR is at 13.1 at 3K, and the CHT is well below 300f when this happens, and 3K is the only RPM that I get any pinging on with throttle of 40% or higher. This happens with both my stock ECU and the reflashed ECU from Guzzitech. I've tried contacting Todd about this, but haven't received a reply as of yet. The only thing I can think of is that the timing needs to be adjusted. Is it too far advanced that the fuel is not burning properly and therefore being ignited in the headers? Once I hook it up to Guzzidiag, any idea how much to retard the timing? Or am I totally wrong with my assumption on this? I've read about others having hiccups around 3K as well... I should also mentioned that I have replaced the TPS, and have tested and/or replaced any potentially faulty sensors and relays. All wiring connectors have been cleaned, and FI have been sent out for a rebuild. Any ideas would be appreciated. Ken

FWIW, if anybody buys this, I have an extra tank that will fit this. It is dark metallic red (maroon?) and could stand to be painted. I'm not interested in selling it otherwise at this point.

Yes Paul, I have (actually did have as of late last week) PCIII, and a reflash by Todd. I've only heard the pinging on the left side. I actually just took my bike to Jim at Rosefarm for tweaking, and I now have a stock ECU (good thing I had a spare), no power commander, and fuel trim at +11. The bike runs better than ever right now. It could use some tweaking at this point.

So, I think the problem is now solved. When I bought my bike, it had K&N pods on it, and it didn't run perfectly (pinging and running hot). I then switched to an open air box and got the Guzzitech reflash and PCIII, with a little bit better result. Then, I read about drilling 3 holes in the lid, and opening up the "snorkels" in the air box, and had the same results, if not a little worse than the open air box. With my AFR meter, I started noticing that the faster I went, the leaner the bike ran at the same RPMs. e.g.: if I was going 30mph at 3K rpm, the AFR was 13.1. At 50mph and 3K, the bike was at over 14AFR. Today, I put on the stock airbox lid with rubber snorkels facing down, and had consistent 13.1AFR at 3K rpm's at all different speeds. Looks like the problem is solved so far. CHT has stayed below 300f (used to go over 330f with previous airbox configurations), and all pinging seems to be gone. Before I switched to the stock airbox lid, I talked to my local dealer, and he mentioned that altering the airbox is great if your racing or running a lot of WOT, but if you do city driving, stay with the stock air box-there's a reason they designed it that way. At least for my bike, it needs a consistent air flow, so no more intake mods for me. YMMV. I figured the problem would be something very simple to fix. Now I'm thinking of all the time I spent cleaning connections, testing or replacing sensors, sending out the injectors for rebuilding, etc. It was fun to go through the bike, and probably necessary for a 12 year old bike, but it was a lot of time that I could have been riding instead. Now it's time to build another custom PCIII map... Ken

I would have thought the new to USA Honda CB1100 would be on the list. It's quite the looker. Ken

Are there any finished maps available for the the 2001 V11S yet? No lambda on my bike, and I have some pinging issues I'd like to take care of, and have no idea what I'm doing as far as timing and fuel adjustments. Ken

I believe you are correct. The person I bought it from said it was off of a V11 Sport and not a Sport 1100.

Anybody know of a good monoshock rebuilder? Traxxion won't do it, and Racetech hasn't returned my email. Klaus at YSS will do it, and cost will be approx. $400 including a new spring and revalve. Right now, it's set up for a 190-200 lb. rider, and I weigh 150. Not sure if I can set it up properly with that heavy of a spring at this time. Anybody here interested in buying the shock if I don't get it revalved and resprung? I'm assuming it will fit all V11 Sports. Ken

The neutral light is always on when it should be. I have replaced and swapped relays a few times now, with the same results. I will clean the relay contacts again later this week. Like I said, the confusing part is that the bike will start with the kick stand down, but not with weight on it. Maybe adjusting the side stand switch will fix the problem, but I think it's highly unlikely. Ken

I do have a new starter, which I was going to change soon (was making a grinding noise occasionally last year, but hasn't done that since I changed the battery, so I've been procrastinating on that). I'll install a new neutral switch at that point as well as clean all connections. I just replaced all of the relays with relays from Pyro Dan, and I cleaned and tightened all of those connectors at the same time. The PO had nice Bosch relays in there, which I now have as spares. Just seems strange that the bike starts with the stand down, but off of the ground. It keeps running when I put the bike down on the stand. It will probably be a week or so before I get the neutral switch, and have time to replace it and change the starter. Thanks for all of the info! Ken

My 2001 V11S doesn't always start in neutral with the side stand in the down position. If I lift the side stand off of the ground (but still down), it will start. I just replaced the switch with a brand new one, and same results. Any ideas? Doesn't seem like pressure from the ground should cause an issue, as it should start regardless if the stand is up or down while in neutral...shouldn't it? Ken

What about having them re-plated? http://www.mt-llc.com/cylinder.php Ken

22,000 miles. Just got them back this week. I sent them in just to make sure they were clean since the bike was sitting for about a year when I bought it last summer. The bike was running great, but I figured why not send them in since there's too much snow to ride now, and the bike is 12 years old. Ken

The fuel injectors were a little dirty on mine when I bought it last summer-the first tankful of gas averaged 28mpg. Some seafoam cleared that up over the summer (and fuel mileage kept increasing). I just sent my injectors into Linder Tech for cleaning and they did before and after measurements. 64 and 65 MLS (milliliters per second?) before cleaning, and both at 66MLS after. At least I know they're fully clean at this point. Total cost was about $70 with shipping. If you do remove your injectors, be prepared for some stripped out bolts since they're 3mm allen bolts with locktite on them (one of them was almost totally stripped out before I even go to it, so removal of that one was a pain). I did order some extra bolts if anybody needs a set of them. Ken

I have a plastic fairing on my V11, and I just used a little fiberglass on the inside of the fairing where the crack is. It's held so far, and I have not covered up the crack from the outside yet. Try Tap plastics for adhesives http://www.tapplastics.com/product/repair_products/plastic_adhesives Depending on the type of material you need to fix, they might have a glue for it. I bought some acrylic adhesive from them last year for a project, and it actually melts the material, and when it evaporates, the two pieces are welded together. It can be a little messy, so be warned. Ken

I just bought the replacement hose and check valve from MGcycle this week. I didn't want to mess around with trying to bend heater hose and risk it kinking on me. The few extra bucks is worth the piece of mind. I'm sure you could clean out the check valve and it would be fine. Since my V11 is 12 years old, I thought I'd treat it well with new parts. http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1186 http://www.mgcycle.com/product_info.php?products_id=1007 Ken

As long as you have things apart, check the oil breather hose and check valve that connects from the rear of the engine to the spine frame. If the check valve stays shut, it could cause problems-those engines need to breathe properly. Ken