moto fugazzi

Just installed a Trucklite Phase 7 LED headlight on my V11S. The standard light just wasn't cutting it at night. The headlight does not fit inside the standard MG bucket (too small), but I did have an extra old Yamaha bucket lying around, and it fit perfectly. I only have 1 pic so far due to a driveway full of ice, but the headlight does have a really wide pattern, and a very sharp cutoff as to not blind oncoming traffic. They can be found on ebay for about $210 with free shipping, and I think it's worth every penny so far. There is a strange X or V where the center of the beam is, but I don't find it annoying. Rated power consumption is 1.5A (18W at low beam), and 2.3A (27.6W at high beam).

Correct. I am surprised that just over 15AFR did cause some running issues. I think Todd at Guzzitech shoots for a 14.1 AFR. The dynojet guy that mapped my bike tries to get 13.1AFR. Keep in mind that this was with a stock ECU, and I'll be installing the reflashed ECU and PCIII when it warms up. I should be able to monitor the AFR and tweak things over summer, if needed. Ken

I just don't have the ability to make one of those. You didn't happen to make extras, did you? On a somewhat related note, after setting the TPS, I noticed the air temp on the VDST said 74f, but it was 37f outside at the time. I do have the open air box lid, so I'm thinking of either moving the air temp sensor, or going with a new lid with 3 holes drilled in it and the snorkels enlarged to 2" like posted in another thread on this site. I'm sure the air temp sensor is picking up engine heat at red lights, and causing the hiccup. Since I'm seeing over 15 AFR at red lights, I'm assuming that the higher air temp sensor reading is causing the bike to run lean? I do have some extra thermistors from KiwiRoy (thanks!), so I can play around with mounting them in various places. I also found an air temp sensor with the proper housing at my local HD dealership for $25 and it had the proper ohm readings at various temps when I tested it. It's part #27270-95 which is close to their TPS part #27291-95. The dealer told me the -95 is the year bike that it was used on. Ken

Thanks Lucky Phil! I did install a cylinder head temp sensor, and also an AFR meter. I took the bike for a 20 mile ride yesterday, and the head temp was around 295f while riding, and up to 320f when I let it sit at idle for a few minutes. Outside temp at that time was 40f and drizzle. Earlier this week, I tried setting the TPS again, and kept receiving TPS error codes on my VDST, so I picked up a new one from the HD dealership, and haven't had an error code yet... I also installed a stock ECU for now, and the bike is running really good, and I'm only having problems with the bike running poorly when I sit at a stop light and I notice the AFR is over 15. It quickly gets running fine again once I get moving and get the AFR in the 13-14 range. Next, I'll put in the Guzzitech reflashed ECU and PCIII and take it for a ride, and I should be able to fine tune the PCIII with the AFR meter. That will be later this year, as the temps are quickly dropping and snow and sleet is expected tonight. http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideband-air-fuel-systems-15/digital-wideband-air-fuel-gauge-25/

There's another one for sale on ebay, but it's in San Fancisco. Sellers name is Guzzitech, so if it's Todd's, then it's sure to be a good one. I'd spend the extra money for the upgrades he did to it. Ken

I'm looking for a spare set of TB's and FI's. Does anybody know what other models with interchange with my 2001 V11 Sport? There's 2 sets on ebay now-from a 2001 Bassa (38mm), and a 1999 Bassa. Not sure what size FI and TB's I have. Anyway have a way for me to cross-reference these parts? Ken

Update: New regulator was added last week, and I did some more testing. Voltage at sone of the relays reads .4V less than the battery (13.4V at the fuel pump and side stand relays vs. 13.8V at the battery). AC output of the alternator tested higher than what my manual says. 48 at 3k rpm and 96 van at 6k rpm. Manual says 40 (at 3k) and 80 (at 6k). I dropped the pan, cleaned everything and replaced the oil. A fair amount of mayo in the oil pan and the cylinder head cover, and the oil dipstick temp never gets over 80 celsius. I did make sure all of the external oil lines were clear, and they were. The other thing I noticed. Bike ran great on the freeway. Taking the side roads back home is when the bike gets really hot, especially at speeds below 40mph, so I'm now thinking the problem may not be voltage related, but speed related. When I get back on the freeway, the bike does cool down. Seems strange that the heads get really hot, but the oil temp doesn't get warmer than 80C.

Any idea how much voltage the new regulator is putting out? Ken

How do I check the voltage from the coils to the chassis? I'll doublecheck the ECU ground pin. I do have 2 grounds on the case, and 2 on the regulator. The bike now has the manual petcock. Is there a separate fuse for it? If so, should I pull it out? I'll try the short in RR3 as well just to be sure. Which contacts do I jump exactly? I did clean the ignition switch a few weekends ago.

An update here: Went for a 43 mile ride last night. Bike ran great until I took the dark side roads back home (about 35 miles into the trip). I turned on my LED aux. lights (44watt total draw), and the voltage dropped to about 12.6V from 13.8V. The headers started glowing within a minute, and the bike ran like garbage again. After I turned off the lights, the voltage went back up to 13.8V, but the bike continued running poorly the rest of the way home. I'm assuming the alternator should be able to handle the extra 44watt draw? I also noticed that my sidestand switch doesn't always work properly (bike wouldn't start in neutral with the side stand down until I wiggled it a bit, then it started just fine). Not sure if this could have anything to do with the problem. Ken

I just installed the ESR510 last weekend, and everything is good so far. I don't have molex connectors on my 2001 V11S. I did not have a 30anp inline fuse on my new regulator, nor did I add one. I will also mention that the supplied wires are too short to reach from the regulator to the battery. I added a length of 12 gauge wire and used bullet connectors. I did remove the tank and used wire loom, and zip tied the wires to the frame. Electrosport also told me that the white wire can be capped off if you don't want to use the warning light. I capped mine off, as I'm unsure where to connect the wire to the warning light at this point. I do also have a voltmeter added to my bike. Ken

I was told by my local dealer (excellent Guzzi mechanic) to disconnect the battery for 10 minutes before disconnecting the ECU. Maybe it really needs to get done, or maybe it's just a precautionary measure-I don't know for sure, I just follow his advice. Ken

that tells me bad connection somewhere and the first place I would look is the regulator ground. since you have a new reg you may never know.. be sure it has clean ground to block and battery ground wire is clean on BOTH ends. Agreed about the bad connection. I did have 2 grounds on the original regulator, and the new unit is directly connected to the battery, plus 2 case grounds as well. I'm going to spend the winter cleaning the bike and all electrical connections as well as checking for voltage drops, etc. Kiwi Roy gave me a nice list of things to check and test (that guy is amazing!). With the snow coming tonight, I can at least rest assured that the bike is running properly for now. One less thing to worry about over winter.

As of now, the problem seems fixed. I just installed an Electrosport ESR510 voltage regulator and took it for a 15 mile ride. Bike ran great except for some popping on decel, and some slight pinging at WOT, but that may be due to the 35F temps outside (fuel mixture is leaner in cold weather). With the new regulator, I have 12.6V at idle and 13.9V at 3K+ RPMs. Seems like the regulator was the culprit.

71F was after about an hour of sitting with a box fan blowing on the engine. It was 43F outside at that point, so I imagine it cooled down fairly quickly.

The voltage is regulated at 5 Volts as you say. Perhaps the injectors are a bit slugish in opening with low voltage. Cliffs MyECU takes Voltage into account but I don't know about the stock unit. One things fairly certain the mixture seems to be Voltage related. It's very strange for sure. As it turns out, I went over some rough railroad tracks too fast last night, and everything went crazy then. The bike WAS running flawlessly up to that point. After the tracks, voltage started swinging between 12.5V and 15.1V at cruising speeds, headers started glowing bright red, and the engine was popping and pinging. I then ran the diode tests on the regulator, and was getting an OL reading when I had one of the yellow wires in a certain position. Thanks to Kiwi Roy, he gave me some great info, and I did end up ordering the Electrosport ESR510 regulator, and it should be delivered on Saturday before the snow falls. I just need to figure out if the bad running is caused by the old regulator, or if some bad connection caused the regulator to go bad, and will keep causing problems down the road... I did hook up the VDST to the bike afterwards, and the air temp was 83f (engine temp was the same IIRC). It was only 42f outside, but I'm guessing the engine heat got to the sensor since it was sitting parked in the garage. An hour later with a box fan blowing on the engine, the air temp was down to 61f, and the engine temp was at 71f. Maybe I should remove the air temp sensor from the air box, and put it further away from the engine? I would think as long as the bike is moving, the sensor should be ok in the air box. Is that air temperature or :engine: temperature? 61f was air temp according to the VDST, and engine temp was 71f (VDST reading). I'm assuming that they are taken from the air temp sensor in the air box, and the cylinder head sensor. Hope that makes sense.

The voltage is regulated at 5 Volts as you say. Perhaps the injectors are a bit slugish in opening with low voltage. Cliffs MyECU takes Voltage into account but I don't know about the stock unit. One things fairly certain the mixture seems to be Voltage related. It's very strange for sure. As it turns out, I went over some rough railroad tracks too fast last night, and everything went crazy then. The bike WAS running flawlessly up to that point. After the tracks, voltage started swinging between 12.5V and 15.1V at cruising speeds, headers started glowing bright red, and the engine was popping and pinging. I then ran the diode tests on the regulator, and was getting an OL reading when I had one of the yellow wires in a certain position. Thanks to Kiwi Roy, he gave me some great info, and I did end up ordering the Electrosport ESR510 regulator, and it should be delivered on Saturday before the snow falls. I just need to figure out if the bad running is caused by the old regulator, or if some bad connection caused the regulator to go bad, and will keep causing problems down the road... I did hook up the VDST to the bike afterwards, and the air temp was 83f (engine temp was the same IIRC). It was only 42f outside, but I'm guessing the engine heat got to the sensor since it was sitting parked in the garage. An hour later with a box fan blowing on the engine, the air temp was down to 61f, and the engine temp was at 71f. Maybe I should remove the air temp sensor from the air box, and put it further away from the engine? I would think as long as the bike is moving, the sensor should be ok in the air box.

Just an update here. I did change the relay that the PO had added to the headlight. He had taken the feed wires for the relay from the original headlight socket-not sure if this is proper or not. Charging on my voltmeter now reads 12.5V at idle and 14.7V at 3k+RPM's. I think the voltage is on the higher side (at cruising speeds) because the tail light is also on it's own relay, so it's probably not in the regulator circuit. Anyway, the bike now runs much better. Minimal header glowing and engine pinging-at least in the 60f temps yesterday. Today it was 40f, and I had a bit more pinging, but I'm guessing it's because the fuel ratio is leaner in colder weather. Ken

I did disconnect the PCIII, but the bike ran worse than ever. Must be due to the aftermarket intake and exhaust mods. Kiwi Roy sent a ton of diagrams and things to test, so I think I'm on the right path as of now. I emailed Roy the results of one of my tests, and I'll see what he has to say about it... FWIW, I did replace the battery today, installed a manual petcock, new fuel filter (just to be safe), and checked the diodes on the regulator. I also noticed that sometimes my hi beam switch doesn't work correctly and the low beam stays on when the hi beam is activated. That would explain the huge voltage drop when I turned on my hi beams. 115W draw vs. the 55W that it should have been drawing. I cleaned and lubed the switch a few times now, but it always doesn't work correctly.

That's very interesting, I think you are onto something. The Ducatti Energia regulators I have pulled apart have all been set at 13.8 Volts but with the stock wiring they charge battery to about 14.5 Volts due to Luigi's Voltage drop through the headlight relay I have worked with several owners who were having charging problems but none have mentioned the bad running like that. I believe the bikes ECU compensates somewhat for slight change in Voltage opening the injectors a little bit longer for low and v.v. for high. I also know from experience if the Voltage goes very high (16+ Volts) the ECU will cut right off. Where abouts do you have your Voltmeter connected, directly to the battery posts or somewhere at the headlight bucket? (depending on how it's wired the reading could have a different meaning) Have you added a good ground wire to the regulator case, I can't stress that enough, just a short wire between the case and a timing cover screw. Charging Circuit Problems2.pdf Do you have after market headlight relay/s,? (relays can rob the battery of 0.5 Volt or more because it defeats Luigi's plan) How are your LEDs wired, direct to the battery of some part of the harness? Did anything else happen between running fine and running lousy like a stop and start? Test Point Layout.pdf I suggest you test the resistance of all the switches in particular Note 4, 5 and 8 PM sent The voltmeter is connected to the battery via fuzeblock. http://www.fuzeblocks.com The aux lights are also thru the fuze block. There is also a separate relay for them that turns the aux. lights on 100% when the high beam is turned on. http://stores.intuitwebsites.com/hstrial-QualiRegResou/-strse-22/Waterproof-Wireless-LED-Dimmer/Detail.bok The PO installed relays for the headlight and high beam-they are both mounted in the headlight bucket. There are 2 grounds on the regulator. 1 attached to the frame, and the other attached to the engine. I did that earlier this summer. The only thing that happened between running fine and running lousy is when I was riding and the voltage was at 14.4, and when I turned on the high beam/aux lights, the voltage quickly dropped to about 12.5V on the meter. I was riding at the time, and the bike was not turned off at that time.

Fuel pressure is good.Check it again after some running.Pumps sometimes give trouble when hot. Have you checked the tank vent? Ciao I'll check the tank vent again, but when I had the tank off a while back, it seemed fine. I'll do it when I put on the manual petcock. Also a strange new twist. Took the bike for a long ride tonight. My voltmeter started reading 14.1-14.4V (it has never gone that high before. Usually 13.9V at most). I then noticed that the pipes had stopped glowing red, and the bike ran awesome-no pinging, popping on decel, etc. I then turned on my LED aux. lights (20W total), and the voltage dropped to about 12.5V (normally it's only about .4V drop at most). After I turned them off, the voltage stayed under 13.9V, and the bike started running like garbage-it was even worse than what it has been doing. Don't know if it's all related, but probably time for a new battery. I'll go through the electrical connections as well when I have the tank off.

Just checked fuel pressure. 42psi when ignition is turned on, and went up to 45psi when the bike was started. Is this within spec? Just received the manual petcock from MG Cycle and a new filter. I'll change them out this weekend when it warms up a bit. I did not see any kinked fuel lines either. Ken

Does anybody have a diagram for fuel line routing? I'd like to make sure mine is correct. As of now, here's how the fuel line is routed: From the petcock to the fuel filter then fuel pump, then fuel pump to the LH injector, then output of LH injector to the RH injector, the output of RH injector going to the fuel regulator. Sound correct? Ken

NAPA doesn't have these in stock at this time. They might never stock them again, so the parts guy was nice enough to cross reference them for me. They're also used in H-D's (part #27408-01). It was $38 at the dealership, so I picked one up to have as a spare. There is some strange writing on the regulator-not sure what it means, but it is made by Weber. If anybody knows what it means, I'd like to know. 95/E 4.0 b 25612

So everybodys going for the complex stuff first. After 10 miles the ecu should have moved off the enrichening map and then the problem starts. First place to start is the fuel filter,then ensure fuel pressure is OK. Ciao Fuel filter was changed when I picked up the bike. Shouldn't the enrichening map be bypassed with the PC3 installed? Maybe the fuel or air vent lines are crossed? I'll have to check fuel pressure as well. Thanks for the info! Ken Enrichening map wont be bypassed with the PC3. Stick to the basic stuff. If you are 100% sure on the fuel filter then fine but with any FI engine that suddenly starts to exhibit issues the FIRST thing to check is fuel pressure. Its as basic as going for the plugs and leads first when you have ignition problems.most likley to cause low fuel px in order are Filter,pump,regulator. Check the fuel pump inlet as well for a kinked hose.Not a big fan of that solinoid fuel tap either. Might be worth looking at the crank sensor as well. Ciao You are correct about the warm up map, Lucky Phil. I know for sure the fuel filter was changed, as I have the old one. Now I need to figure out how to check the fuel pressure... When I was looking up the fuel regulator, I found a pic for a replacement. If I'm looking at the correct part, it's on the lower RH side of the tank (by the petcock). I noticed that mine does not have a hose attached to the smaller nozzle. Is this normal? Pic is attached.