moto fugazzi

So everybodys going for the complex stuff first. After 10 miles the ecu should have moved off the enrichening map and then the problem starts. First place to start is the fuel filter,then ensure fuel pressure is OK. Ciao Fuel filter was changed when I picked up the bike. Shouldn't the enrichening map be bypassed with the PC3 installed? Maybe the fuel or air vent lines are crossed? I'll have to check fuel pressure as well. Thanks for the info! Ken

Thanks Roy! I'll test the old thermistor when I have the new one ready to replace-no sense taking the tank off twice in case the old one is bad. I did replace the engine temp sensor last week, and the bike still runs rough when it heats up. I also plan on sending the injectors out for cleaning since I now remember that the PO had the bike sitting for about a year, and my first tank full of gas gave me about 26mpg. After a 2nd tankful of gas and some sea foam, the mpg went up to about 33mpg, and has consistently stayed there. I have run FI cleaner in every tankful since. In case the injectors are shot and can't be cleaned to be useable, is there a part number or replacement injector that works for this bike? I can't seem to find any info on this site. Ken p.s. I don't remember if the ECU timing was advanced or retarded. I just know it was altered slightly from Guzzitech to help reduce pinging.

The PO had pods on the bike, and the air sensor attached to the frame. I have since replaced the air box and put the sensor in its proper place. How does one check the sensors?

I was thinking I probably had sticky fuel injectors. I've been running seafoam in my gas for the last few tankfuls now. Not sure if that will help. Any good way to clean the injectors without removing them? Seems like it would be a pain to do, but hopefully there's an easier way. Can I get to it from the inside with some carb cleaner and a toothbrush thru the TPS butterfly valve? FWIW, I just pulled the plugs, and they're brown colored. Also, I just hooked up my VDSTS, and found that I have an error code for the water temp sensor. I wonder if it means engine temp sensor, or air temp sensor. Could one of those being out of whack cause the bike to run hot?

Seems like my 2001 V11S is overheating, and has been all summer. After 10 miles of riding, the headers start to glow brightly (can only be seen at night) and the bike starts running horribly-pops on decel, pings when 30%+ throttle is given (mostly between 3-5k), and just runs rough in general. When I first noticed it, I decided to send in my ECU for a reflash from Guzzitech. Todd advanced the timing a little and sold me a PCIII. Just had a custom map built for it this week, and AFR is about 13.1. so it shouldn't be running lean. Here's what's been done to the bike: Valves set to world specs TPS reset TB's balanced PCIII added and custom map built Open air box lid added w/K&N filter Doesn't appear to be any intake or exhaust leaks What else can I check? Could it be a weak battery? Bad sensor? Ken

I have Oxford heated grips on my V7C, and Kosso heated grips on my V11S. They both get really hot. I think the Oxfords get hotter, but I think the Kossos draw less power. Ken

Before this, I had K&N pods on the bike. The induction/intake noise was way louder than the mistral exhaust. I can barely hear any induction noise now. I do prefer the induction noise over the exhaust, but that's just my opinion. So far the bike is running much better with this intake instead of the pod filters. Can't wait to get it back from the dyno tuner later today!

Thanks for all of the help! I installed the airbox and plumbed in the oil line. For once, the bike actually started on the first try! Getting rid of the pod filters seems to be the best mod I have done so far. I'm off to get a new map for the PCIII on Wednesday, and the bike should run even better! So far, it pulls cleanly from 2k on up. I had Todd at Guzzitech reflash the ECU (timing mods), and couldn't be happier so far. Ken

Now that FBF doesn't make the airbox ring, I had to build my own. I wanted to keep the stock airbox lid just in case. I bought a V11 EV airbox from ebay, and used the top portion only. The main difference is that the EV lid has 2 mounting tabs towards the front instead of one. All it took was a piece of metal spanning the 2 tabs, and a hole drilled in the center for the single mounting tab. I then found a piece of perforated metal and used it to cover the air filter in order to keep out varmints and large debris. Here's pics of the finished project. Word on the street is that Todd at Guzzitech will be making the airbox rings very soon.

That was my first (and only) thought. I currently have the tank on, and the nipple capped off, as I wanted to do a test ride. I suppose I should install the line. Any benefits to re-connecting it or leaving it capped off? Is it necessary? Reason I ask is that I'm taking it to the dyno shop to have the PCIII properly mapped. Ken

Good question. I need to figure out where it should be going.

I'm in the middle of putting my airbox back on (pod filters were on previously), and I have a vent line at the front of the airbox which I believe is for an oil vent line? Anybody know where the ends of those hoses go, or should I just cap it off? TIA Ken

The spark map has been remapped. I think once I get the PCV and autotune installed, it should run perfectly. The bike runs really good with no pinging around 5k with hard acceleration, and no popping on decel. It's also much smoother at lower RPM around town, and pulls great from 3k rpm's on up. As of now, my fuel light just came on at 140 miles on the tank of gas, which should probably be about 35mpg, which is about what I normally get. Keep in mind, I didn't do any hard riding on this tankfull-I took it easy to make sure evrything is good. I also have other questions on the air bleed screws. Can you have them too far out that it does more harm than good? Or too far in? Mine are about 1/2 out from fully closed. When I open them up more (to about 1 full turn or so) the bike runs much smoother at idle. Maybe because the idle speed goes up? Not really sure. How does the air bleed screw affect performance, or is it just for idle only? Ken

Thanks for all of the help. Went for another 30 mile ride last night. The bike runs incredibly well! No pinging, no popping on decel (pulls strongly and cleanly at all RPM's). The headers still glow at RPM's over 3500 or so. The higher the RPM's the brighter they get. I just stayed a constant 55mph and varied gears every few minutes. I also noticed the dipstick temp was about 95C when I parked the bike, so at least the oil isn't overheating. Headers are just staring to turn blue a very little bit, but I would have thought it would be worse by now. Ken

The red glow is faint so far-noticeable only at night, and when not directly under street lights. Temps were about 65f last night. Not sure about fuel consumption yet, as there's only 30 miles on the reflashed ECU. I do have one of those oil thermometer dipsticks from MG Cycle. Oil temp was 92 Celsius when I parked the bike after the ride. Not sure what the danger zone is for oil. Ken

I just polished the headers before I ran the bike so that I could monitor the headers. They're mostly gold right now, and starting to get a little blue. Left side has a tiny bit more blue. I only did 30 miles tonight due to the rain all day. The plugs are a light grey with maybe a touch of white (but I'd say mostly grey). The bike runs damn good right now (except that I have the idle a little low), and there's no popping on decel. Doesn't appear to be any exhaust leaks either as far as I can tell. When I had the headers off, I noticed there weren't any gaskets between the header and the cylinder head-is that normal? Ken

I had a reflash done on my ECU by a reputable guy (not going to mention his name yet). My V11 runs great now (no pinging, etc), except I noticed the headers glow red after a few miles of riding. It's not very bright, but I did notice it at night (outside temp was 65f). The reflash guy told me this is normal on Guzzi's with single wall headers. I never noticed it on the bike before the reflash, and my V7 Classic doesn't have this issue either (I think it's a single wall pipe). Anybody notice their headers glowing at night? Not sure if this is normal, and I'm kind of afraid to ride it right now in case it is running too hot. Ken

My horns fried at the same time which in turn caused the fuse to blow. My headlight was also connected to the fuse, and that went out at the same time. Luckily, I had my aux. lights on since is was pitch black outside and I was in the middle of some twisty back roads. It's very unnerving thinking about what would have happened had I not had aux. lights. I'd put a test light on the end of the horn wiring and push the switch-it's the quickest easiest way to check the horn. Otherwise, if you take the horn to your local auto parts store, I'm sure they could test it for you. Ken

If anybody has a spare, I could sure use it. I have a 2001 V11 Sport, and I don't know what years are compatible. PM or email at 11moto11 at gmail dot com Ken

Sorry if it doesn't make sense, but I'm just reporting my experiences with and without the diode installed. When I went for a ride Sunday night (no diode installed) and turned on my 35w Aux lights (70w total), I saw the voltage on my meter drain at a fairly fast rate. After about 15 minutes at 4k+RPM's, the meter was into the 11 volt range. That just shouldn't be possible with what the alternator puts out, as long as the system is functioning properly. A ride last night (diode installed) with the aux lights on had the voltage around 13.3-13.5V if I remember correctly. I'm not trying to unleash any hidden power here, I'm just trying to get the charging system to do what it's supposed to do-charge the battery. I had these same lights on my V7C that has a 280W alternator, and the battery never drained with those. I believe Roy is correct with his cause and solution to the low charging situation. Ken

I don't understand the problem. Those voltages are to be expected. My 2007 Griso (sold a while back) and 2009 V7 Classic both charged over 14V at higher RPM's (over 4K), and neither of them showed voltage of 12.6 at idle. After realizing the PO upgraded the wiring, he ended up bypassing the reference wire which was causing the regulator to put out less power. After installing the diode, my voltage now reads 14.5V at higher RPM's and 12.9V at idle-very comparable to the Griso and V7C readings. Why not optimize the charging system? FWIW, I did clean the ground from the regulator that the PO added, and I actually added another ground to a different point on the frame (the existing ground was to the engine). I also went thru and cleaned ALL electrical contacts just to be sure before I added the diode. My main concern was that the voltage would be below 12.5V (and keep dropping) when I turned on my aux. lights at cruising speed. After the diode was added, it's now 12.7V or slightly higher. If I left my aux lights on for more tha 15 minutes, voltage would drop below 12V, which is not a good thing. Sucks to go on a ride at night, and just watch your battery drain on the voltmeter. The voltmeter is hooked up to the battery via a Fuzeblock. Great product if you're adding extra electronics, which I have done. Ken

I just noticed having the same issue as well, after hooking up a permanent volt meter to my V11 Sport. Max voltage is 13.9 at higher RPM's, around 12.6 at idle. Diode test came in at a reading of 476 on my Craftsman multimeter, and reverse was 1. According to the manual, this reading is in ohms, and it should be approx. 700 ohms when tested properly, and the # 1 should show when leads are reversed. I do remember the PO telling me he added relays to everything, so I'm pretty sure he bypassed the regulator wire and original harness-I'm still looking for the new schematics he gave me. Not sure if he did the same with the headlight or not, but it's always on when the key is on. Looks like it may be time to add the diode in series. Any comments, or ideas on what else to check for? What rating diode do I need? I can't find the N4001 here in the USA like somebody else used. Ken

Thanks! The only question I have is: how do I verify the idle trim is set at zero? Not sure how to do that. Ken

How do I remove the "I" rod? I tried lifting up on the ball joint on the right side with no luck. Does it need to be pried off with a screwdriver? I really don't want to break it. Also, on my 2001 V11 Sport, does anyone know if the TPS had to be manually reset, or can my VDSTS electronically reset the TPS? I've read so many methods on resetting TPS, that I'm even more confused on which is the right way to do it with the VDSTS. Ken

I just had a similar problem with my V11. Turns out all of the pivot points in the linkage needed to be cleaned and lubed. It took a whole lot of WD40 to get things moving properly. Hopefully, your solution is this simple. Ken