moto fugazzi

Just an FYI. Speed hut has a 30% off sale now until 12/15/15. Ken

Here's a vid on how to bias a HR Deluxe, and yours should be very similar. Chances are your amp is fine, and you won't need to do anything. If the tubes are about the same temp, they're most likely matched (especially if they're the factory tubes). If you replaced the tubes at any time, you will need to bias them if it hasn't been done already. And like Trevini mentioned: Be very careful around those caps! Just think of the bias pot as your TPS, and you'll do just fine. Ken

It's a little chilly, now, here in The Den. But those 6L6 outputs heat up to some serious temps. Should I worry that one of them gets to some 325ºF? Seems pretty cozy to me! Docc, is it red plating? Just one of the tubes gets to 325f? What's the temp on the others? What happens if you swap the tubes around? Ken

The Mesa Boogie 400 is an amazing bass amp. Well done, Sir!

Do you design and build those yourself? Very cool! Ken

Here's from a show we played last year at Halloween. Marshall JCM800 Bass amp with a 1971 Fender Precision Bass. This years show should be interesting...we're playing White Zombie songs, and I get to be the bass player from that band, which happens to be a girl. Ken

While some 6L6 tubes have that same shape, it's an actual size rectifier tube. Ken

I have a few bass tube amps as well...a Marshall JCM800 Bass, and a Music Man 100B. I have one of these tubes on my clutch arm as well:

By side cover, you mean the porkchop? If so, then no, that stays on. But it's easiest to do with the shock reservoir out of the way - one nut on the back of the porkchop. The long bolt goes through the porkchop, then through the widest part of the shift lever (on which it pivots), then threads into the tab on the frame, then there is another nut on the back side of the threaded tab. To remove the bolt (and lever), you first have to undo the nut on the inboard side of the threaded tab. Docc's picture shows the threaded tab clearly - and the hole in the porkchop where the long bolt was removed. I used waterproof grease - same stuff I use for axle lube. Sorry, I was thinking of the shaft that the linkage connects to at the tranny. I wasn't thinking things through properly at that time. I did take it all apart, clean and grease everything (I also found out that if you over torque the bolt (even by a little), then the pedal will bind up). Everything shifts so much better, but the clutch lever seems to want to be in the No. 2 or 3 position. No. 1 engages the clutch too far out for my liking, and No. 4 has a few shifting issues at times, and finding neutral while stopped is a little difficult. Thanks again everyone! Ken

Docc, where did you get those shims from, or are they just washers? BTW, nice amp! I didn't know you also play. Andy, I believe I have the twin plater, and about 12k on the bike. The bike did sit in storage for about 5 years, but it used to shift perfectly, and now it's getting more notchy feeling. Scud, which pivot bolt are you talking about? The knurled bolt the the base of the shifter physically mounts to? I'm assuming that I'll have to take off the side cover in order to do that. Thanks for everyone's help so far! I'm sure it's just a simple cleaning or adjustment. Ken

I bled the system using the gravity feed method that gstallons wrote about a few years ago: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=14093&hl=clutch%20cylinder I filled the reservoir about 6 times without letting it run dry. I did play with the clutch lever No. 1-4 settings, and 2&3 seem to work the best. I did play with the screw adjustment a little about 1 week ago when the shift lever wouldn't return back up after a downshift, unless I released the clutch. I had that issue a few times this summer during hot weather. Turning the adjustment screw clockwise made the pedal sticking worse, while counter clockwise helped, although it didn't change at which point the clutch would engage while releasing the lever. After bleeding the clutch, I now have the adjustment screw at it's factory setting. No shift lever sticking so far. I did find a clutch rebuild kit, and that may be a winter project. This looks like the same kit that DOCC bought back a while ago. Ken http://www.gothamcycles.com/Bodyworkhtml/ducati-brembo-12mm-front-brake--clutch-master-cylinder-rem-rec-seal-rebuild-kit.html

On my 2004 V11 (12k miles), the clutch engages when the lever is almost all of the way out. On my old 2001 V11, the clutch would engage very close to the handlebar grip. From what I understand, there is no way to adjust this. And here's what I noticed over the past few months with my 2004: The bike used to shift smoothly, and I realized that it's been more "notchy" feeling lately. If I pull the clutch in slightly while at speed, the discs will slip. I just bled the clutch, and I have cleaned/lubed the shift linkage to try and improve shifting. No improvements. Tranny fluid was replaced about 2k miles ago. It's not that the bike is unrideable, but I'd like to get it back to shifting properly. Any ideas? Not sure if a broken spring in the clutch m/c would cause this problem, but I'd like to get a rebuild kit before I would tear into this. Ken

Brilliant! On a side note, Kiwi Roy added LEDs to his relays. Why don't they make relays with lights built in? Or a version like the fuses that light up when they blow? Seems like a guy could make a small fortune inventing a relay like that. Ken

I've always wondered how much real world riding differs from a dyno run with pod filters as far as hp goes. With pods, the bike will run leaner at 70mph vs. sitting on a dyno with a large fan blowing on the motor. A few years ago, I took a spare airbox (sparebox?), drilled a few holes in the top, removed the snorkels, and enlarged the intakes. Turns out that the faster I went, the leaner the bike ran, and consequently, the worse it ran. I have since gone to the stock airbox setup. Just my thoughts and findings. Ken

Roy, I was going to donate to your ride, but then my Sunday opened up, and I made it on the Milwaukee DGR. Somewhere around 50 bikes or so on our ride. 3 Guzzi's on our ride, and it would have been 4, but my friend decided to bring his Laverda instead. Ken

That Apig graphic is hilarious! Can you send a higher res. graphic to me? Ken

You were in SW WI? Only a few hours from me. Wish I would have known... Ken

I just talked to EME about this, and they said the High Output stator is the same output as the factory stator. Basically, I wouldn't gain anything, and I would just spend money for the same result. Here's the link to the HO stator. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/duc-statoredl.htm\ Ken

One of my favorite signs:

Explain this new homeland. Did I miss something? Ken

I have the LED taillight from Harpers, and it's worth the money. The LED headlights are nice for regular riding, but are too blue in color for rain and/or fog...it just doesn't cut through moisture very well. Ken

I looked at the differences, and the TI map is very rich...even too rich for my stucchi xover, mistral exhaust, stock paper filter and dropping CO to -30 from -10. My AFR gauge has been a very valuable tool for monitoring and building different maps.Ken

Very well sorted and has a new main bearing seal, and the clutch components were replaced along with all new tranny seals last year. It also has a brand new (less than 50 miles) Pirelli Angel GT on the the rear. Ken

Still have it, and it's at a dramatically reduced price. PM me if you're interested. Ken

Congrats! Like the others have said, do the mechanical tuneup first. If you feel like you need to adjust the fuel or ignition map, let me know, as I have several. I just put a 2004 map on my 2001, and it seems to run a little better. If you have pinging, I have a retarded ignition map that will take care of that. Check docc's tank off maintenance list: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18195 and put a new air filter in right away....sometimes mice nest in those if they can get in. The Roper Slopper plate is a good idea for extra insurance. I don't have one on my 2001 V11S, and never had issues for the past 3 years. I did install one on my 2004, since I had to remove the oil pump in order to get the oil filter off. I bought my plate from a forum member a few years ago for a good price, so I figured I'd install it. From what I gather, the plate is most helpful f you like to do wheelies, or are going up a steep incline under hard acceleration. I don't do either of those, so I never worried too much. If you're near the mountains, it might be a wise idea. Ken