moto fugazzi

I just found out about this 2 piece band from the UK. No Lyrics. Instead they use samples from speeches or public service information films. Interesting concept. Public Service Broadcasting

I test rode it today. Runs like a champ, and handles flawlessly. I just need to figure out how to justify selling my V11S and getting this one....or do I just buy a newer bike? An 8V Norge would be sweet, but I'd want to ditch the fairing and make it look like a 1200 Sport. Too many decisions to make here. Ken

I'd take another good look at the main 30A fuse. Replace it with a known good one, and see what happens. Ken

R4 is where I have my volt meter connected. Should be easy enough to tap into that wire for me. That's if I go with the EME RR and stator...I currently have the ESR-510 wired up. Thanks again, Roy! Any tips about the stator? Ken

Has anybody replaced one on a V11S? I'm looking at upgrading to the EME stator and RR, which would give me a 450W system. Does the rotor need to be removed? Any special tools needed? Ken On a side note, the guy at EME recommended connecting a relay that would tap off one of the coils and connecting the proper wire to the battery, and the other wire to the black wire (I'm assuming reference wire) in order for the RR to get a better voltage reading. Interesting.

Voltage goes up to 14.8 over 1.8K, and hovers around that at cruising speeds. I don't think it dropped below 14.6V at higher RPM's. I'll check out the Aprillia forum when I have time, but first I need to test everything with using all of Kiwi Roys files that I've collected over the years. Ken

Today, my 2 year old Odyssey battery was dead after the bike sitting for about 10 days. I put in my old Westco battery that I charged up last week, and the bike fired right up. VM is still reading 14.8V at 1800 RPM and above. Time to get the Odyssey tested and see if the 17.1V fried the battery or not. Ken

I've been running the bike for just over a week, and didn't notice any issues until Monday. The battery seems to be fine (according to my crude tests). I took the bike to work today, and experienced the 17+ volts today, and jiggling the yellow wires caused it to return to normal. Maybe a coincidence? Today, I reinstalled my ESR510, and was getting voltage readings of 14.8V, and I'm not sure if that's too much for the system to handle. I then checked the ground wire from battery to frame (tranny), and that was coated with tranny fluid (WTF?). I then cleaned and reinstalled, only to find the same 14.8V on my VM. Oddly enough, there wasn't any tranny fluid on the bike other than on the ground bolt. FWIW, when I had the ESR510 hooked up last year (before the fuse holder melted), I never had a volt reading of more than 14.1V... Ken

I'll go through the connections again this weekend, thanks, Docc, Roy, I have one VM connected to the ECU relay, and the other one connected to the cig lighter on it's own circuit. I added the 2nd one last fall since my original LCD VM is too dim to read during the daylight. It wasn't added because I'm paranoid. Phil, thanks for your brilliant words of wisdom. Ken

Cruising down the freeway yesterday, and my voltage meters (yes, I have 2 of them) jumped up to 17.1V. I pulled in the clutch to drop the RPM's, and the volts dropped down, then when I released the clutch, the VM went back to 14.1V. This happened twice during a 5 mile stretch, so I think something is starting to give. I have extra grounds on the VR, and the battery connections are tight. Any ideas? Currently, I have the original VR installed, but I have an ESR510 and a used VR as backups. Before I start diagnosing everything, anybody have an idea on what's wrong? I do have all of Kiwi Roy's schematics and things to test for available on my computer (Thanks, Roy!). Ken

Thanks for the tip! I'll check mine if it ever warms up here. A friend of mine lost the pin a few years back on his Ducati, and we bought the proper size allen wrench and cut it down in the Home Depot parking lot. Luckily it was towards the end of our trip around Lake Michigan, but Chicago traffic is NOT the time you want to find out that you don't have front brakes! Ken

I bought the wire/cap set from MG Cycle a few years back, and price is for each: http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_157&products_id=1590 Or maybe these? https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_157&products_id=1669 Otherwise, call Harpers, and they'll know exactly what you need, and it's usually shipped the same day. Edit: Looks like they're really expensive, unless they have a cheaper substitute: http://www.harpermoto.com/spark-plug-cap-01717430.html I thought I read on the forum of somebody finding them on eBay at a good price. Ken

I'm a huge Rush fan. A few years ago, I saw The Joy Formidable open for The Silversun Pickups, and I was hooked. Been listening to this for a while now, and the girl on guitar rocks! Ken

I emailed Todd at Guzzitech about returning my PCIII to him in order to upgrade to the PCV. He replied immediately, and my response email to him was regarding the issue we had a few years back with this, and he hasn't returned my email from 4 days ago…most curious. Ken

That seat would look better if mounted correctly. You're not going to find an "off the shelf" seat that bolts right on, and you may have to remove or modify the end of the frame to mount any other seat, as the frame goes upward at the end. Maybe you could find a wider seat that would go over the sides of the frame, but a proper cafe seat should be more horizontal rather than upwards at the back end. Honestly, I think the stock seat cowl looks cafe enough for me, but that's just my opinion. I think the V7 cafe seat may be available in brown in Europe, check here: http://www.corsaitaliana.com Ken

You can set it with Guzzidiag. If you can find a shop with a CO sniffer wand, set it between 3-4PPM. I'm told the factory sets them at 2PPM. Ken

The dealer set it to +10. Guzzi calls for CO of 2.0 PPM, and my dealer likes to set it at 4PPM, which ended up at +10. That also got rid of the 3k stumble or hiccup that most of our bikes have or had. I recently dropped it to +6 when the temps dropped, as my bike runs very rich in these WI winters. Ken Ken, This 3k stumble--I don't remember having it on my '03 naked sport, but a new-to-me '03 Rosso has a hiccup/popping at 3k... only at 3 k. Might this be the same hiccup you speak of? And if so, can I resolve it merely by tuning it with the PC3, or do I have to go with the advance ECM tuning? Thx! Sorry about the late reply...I just noticed your last post. I would first start with a tune-up (TB sync, and all of that good stuff). If you have Guzzidiag, add 10 to whatever your CO is at, and see if that takes care of things. You can always go up or down from there, but I wouldn't go overly high on the CO. I would try the above before buying a PCIII or PCV. Having my dealer set up my bike and adjusting CO took care of my hiccup. Ken

The only issue I see is that the paint may scrape off while sliding it through the clamps. It happened to an axle bolt I painted in my V7 Classic last summer. Ken

Most curios. It would be much easier if somebody could figure out what AFR is set to in the ECU in bikes with a Lambda sensor, and we could just use Guzzidiag to change it to the desired AFR setting. I had a FatDuc on my 2007 Griso, and all it did was make the check engine light go on. When installed on my 2009 V7 Classic, MPG dropped considerably, and I figured excess fuel was getting washed down the cylinders, and into the crankcase oil. It was removed in a hurry. Who really knows what these Motociclo units do without monitoring the AFR ratio. Having the bike run too rich can be just as dangerous and running too lean. Don't mess with your intake or exhaust too much, and you won't have to worry about these things. For $200-250, you can get an AFR meter (you'll have to install the Lambda/O2 sensor, which may include adding a bung), get Guzzidiag for free, and monitor all of your adjustments to your ECU fuel map. Create your own maps, and know that everything is good. Ken

That looks very cool. Did you think about making another mount for it in case someone would want to buy it? Ken

Also check the sensor in the airbox, as it's has very thin wires. Did your bike always idle that high? When it drops down, that about where my idle normally is when it's fully warmed up. IIRC, when the temps sensors go bad, I believe the ECU kind of goes into a default mode, and the bike will run rich. At least that info is according to my trusted MG mechanic. Ken

I took the pods off of my V11S and reinstalled the stock factory airbox. It runs way better in every weather condition. Ken

You could disconnect the cable at the tranny end (ride side of bike), and give it a manual turn by hand to see if the MPH changes. Also, make sure the cable connection is tight at the speedo end. FWIW, when I changed my cable, I just replaced the innards (it pulls out from either ends, once disconnected) and reconnected. Chances are, your cable just seared off at either end of the connections. Mine happened at the speedo side. Ken

You may be able to just replace the flasher unit with a mechanical one that regulates the flashing accordingly. I haven't tried one on a V11, but I've used these on similar Japanese bikes. http://www.delcity.net/store/Electromechanical-Flashers/p_90171.h_90270.t_1.r_IF1003?mkwid=IBiyd8xL&crid=38094426869&gclid=Cj0KEQiAgMKmBRDMjo_F9OfUubABEiQAp8Ky1znp7d3YqFQywivEsVnEl4ruBS2TLeNOezlADkTVN5QaAtaQ8P8HAQ A search here may help you out, or others may chime in shortly. FYI, the flasher is located under the seat, next to the battery. Ken

Thanks for the reminder, DOCC! Battery tender also makes one that attaches to the Battery Tender SAE that connects directly to the battery. I quick and simple option, but not an easy mount. http://www.batterytender.com/Accessories/Female-Cigarette-Adapter.html Ken