moto fugazzi

Brilliant idea! I have an extra feed from my battery in the headlight shell. Do you think I can use the reference wire (non regulator side when they're disconnected) for the relay "feed" for #86 on the relay? If not, is there a better place to tap into at the front of the bike? Obviously I can't tap into the low beam since I'd have 0 volts when I turn the highs on. Ken

After a ton of emails with Electrosport, if the fuse blows, or the red wire becomes disconnected, the charge light will NOT come on. That info would have been nice to know before hand. Apparently the ESR515 is a direct OEM type replacement for the Energia, but they are out of stock on those. I wonder if the ESR515 works the same way as the Energia with the reference wire, or if it works differently. Ken

It's right on the website in the description. http://www.euromotoelectrics.com/product-p/edlguz-voltrectoe.htm

That's something I never thought of. Thanks again, Roy! Ken

Where did you find the info on the warning for charging? Is that from EME? I also noticed the "not recommended for use with Odyssey or Lithium Iron (yes, Iron)" batteries. I wonder if that's part of the issue with the original R/R's. They were designed for use with lead acid batteries, and quite a few of us are using Odyssey or newer technology batteries. I still had my original R/R in my bike until I decided to "upgrade" to an ESR510 2 years ago, and have had nothing but problems with them. Just a thought, and keep in mind that I have no idea about charging methods of these newer technology batteries. Hell, I was at Home Depot yesterday looking at cordless drills, and the sales person mentioned that the Makita drills required the multi chemistry chargers for their batteries. No idea what that's about. Ken

Yes, light only comes on with the ignition ON. Yes, I just noticed the note that no black wire is necessary for the charge warning light. Then why do they have the 2 prong connector that matches to the factory wiring? I'll just try the white wire and see if that makes a difference, but I doubt it will. Schematic is here: http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/fitting-instructions/electrosport-esr510-fitting-instructions.pdf I'm still curious if anybody else's warning light turns off with the fuse removed. Ken

I connected the ESR510 today, and the charge light went on with the fuse installed. The light turned off when I removed the fuse. Anybody else want to check their ESR510 for me, and see if it does the same thing? Ken

Guzzitech also carries these. Check this out BEFORE you buy an Odyssey. Apparently they don't work well together. http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/emevr-new/

I've been in touch with Elecreosport, and we'll see how this pans out. I do have 12V at the black wire, and the white wire turns on the light when I short it to ground. The circuit inside the Energia for this function must be bad. I also have 2 grounds on the Energia (1 to the battery), and the PO had one ground on it already. So when the fuse blows, it would appear that the ESR510 still passes current. If this is the case, shouldn't the fuse be closer to the R/R instead the battery as the fuse was more melted on the R/R side. I did replace the fuse holder last night, but have not tried it out as of yet. Ken

Just tested the charge light, and it turned on when the white wire was connected to the chassis. I did this with and without the stock RR connected. I then started the bike (without the white wire to chassis), and no charge light at all. The battery is fully charged now, but I thought the light would still turn on when the ignition is on. Here's my theory with the ESR510. The warning light didn't turn on because the RR was still trying to charge the bike, and because it was still trying to charge, it kept melting the fuse holder. Make sense? Ken

Yes, that's how it came from Electrosport. After looking at their website just now, I think the proper RR may be the ESR 515, and it doesn't have a fuse, and they're out of stock on them. Ken

So, after using the new replacement ESR510 for a couple of months, the fuse and fuse holder melted together, drained my battery, and left me stranded for a short bit. The part that pisses me off is the fact that the charge warning light never went on while the battery was draining (it does light when I turn on the ignition, then turns off after the bike starts). According to my voltmeter, I was at 10.1V when I pulled into the gas station and I was hoping they had an outside outlet that I could plug my charger into. Since the fuse holder was so melted, I decided to install the original energia RR, and give that a go again. Oddly enough, my charge light doesn't come on when I turn on the ignition and start the bike. The battery was still low from my previous episode, and I thought it would come on for sure. I then connected the ESR510, and the charge light immediately went on when I turned on the ignition. I connected the factory RR, and the light still doesn't turn on. What gives? 2 questions here: I've read a few threads here about people having blown fuses with these. What was done to rectify the issue? Why doesn't my charge light come on with the factory RR installed? It did before I put in the ESR510, and all wires are properly connected. Is there a way to test the RR for this feature? Ken Here's a pic of the fuse holder. The fuse was just a glob of green plastic, and when I finally pried it out with a pliers, I threw it as far as I could out of frustration.

Heres a great write up: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11564&hl=mistral Ken

Ha! I had the same issue today at the hardware store on a different project. I figured I could save $3 converting to ase from metric, but realized it would take an hour to do so... Anyway, if you miss winters, come up in January and help me shovel, and you'll realize you're in a better place. I do have a spare room... Ken

Glad it worked out fine! According to Pete Roper, he said you can't damage the engine by retarding the timing too much, so I just kept retarding by 2 until the pinging stopped. Feel free to add to the timing as necessary. I still plan on going back to Clearwater Beach one day for one of Frenchies grouper sandwhiches, so maybe we can get a beer then. I was really amazed on how nice Tampa was-even the empty lots still had Palm trees and looked nice. One day I'll be back there. So you got all of the right parts for your bike? FWIW, my bike is running perfectly after 2 years of fiddling with it. Enjoy! Ken P.S. It's 46f now on my ride through downtown Milwaukee as I stop for a refreshment and warm up some...low of 36f predicted P.P.S. Are we the only ones here using guzzidiag, other than Paul and Meinolf?

Bummer! Best case scenario for finding a bad battery is at home-you're lucky there. That bad battery may be your huckleberry. There should be a warranty on the battery, and if you bought yours locally, the dealer should take care of you. Ken

Just sent the map, and if things aren't right then look for a fault with Guzzidiag. If the bike still doesn't start or run properly, I'll send the Ducati ECU for you to try. I don't think you damaged your ECU, but it seems like if you adjust anything in the cold start map, including the fuel cells for warm up, things get a little weird. Ken

The 900SS 15M ECU works perfectly. I just sent you an email to see where you'd like this shipped to. Also, I have the CO set to 7, but I can change it to whatever setting you'd like before I ship it out. Ken

3 cold starts so far and no issues. I still want to test ride it for another day or two to make sure there's no other issues. Ken

I have a spare 15M ecu from a ducati 900ss that I just reflashed with my adjusted retarded timing to eliminate pinging. It seems to have taken the reflash well. Do you want me to send it to you so you can give it a try? Ken

You can cut down any proper diameter handlebar to length, otherwise you can find some clip on bars online, but either way you may have to drill holes for the clutch pin locator. Woodcraft has similar bars if I remember correctly. Is the gear shifter broken or just bent? If it's bent, you can heat the aluminum with a heat gun, and slowly bend it back into place. If it's broken, Harper's has the shifter on their website. This is for a 2001: http://www.harpermoto.com/parts-by-motorcycle/2000-up-moto-guzzi-motorcycles/v-11-le-mans-sport-naked-1100-2001-2002/gear-lever-en-v11-lemans-sport-naked-2001-2002.html Ken

If it runs, it wouldn't hurt to try. Do you need parts? I may have some. Ken

Try loading the stock map again and see what happens. IIRC, I loaded a leaner cold start map (not revolutions, but fuel cells), and things went a little weird. That was a week or two ago. My newest map only has timing retarded at 60%+ throttle where I was getting pinging from, and it works perfectly. Ken

Not that we messed with something we shouldn't have, I don't think they knew at the time what the issues were when that value is changed. It's easy. Just put the cold start scalar back at 4000 revolutions. Worked perfectly. Meinolf is sending me a corrected map to reduce cold start to 2k, and I'll let you know how that turns out. Ken

Did you alter the cold start time at all? I just received this info from Meinolf. I had cold start issues after I tried reducing my startup map yesterday. "the map points are break points counting revolutions after starting the engine. These are counted down. So 4.000 is the beginning, then countdown to the next break-point starts. You can change the map points, but should also change the total value under skalars. The original value should coincide with the highest map point, 4k in this example. And if you change the skalar then the breakpoints are should be adjusted accordingly. But beware, I have found that twiddling with the enrichment map leads to strange results. As you have also experienced. My first findings are that the enrichment mechanism also includes changing the pre-ignition values, and quite significantly, too."