Camn

I understood that the air throughtput is 1-6% better, and the fluctuation 4 times less: with the snorkels on, on the original air box. Not based on sound, appearance or dyno measurements, but on measurements of the combustion inside the cylinder. How optimal everything takes place there.

These have always been used to fine tune the idle according the instructions of Guzzi. Surprising, that the air bleed screws with a small air opening in relation to the butterflies and the air amount that they let through, affect the lambda/afr on other situations than idling.

As a pro of assembly lines you should visit a big manufacturer like Ducati? In my opinion (also), at Guzzi factory it is the history and heritage which is so unique. Same buildings, off the walls fallen plastering on the same spots than tens of years ago... The photos at the museum what it used to be, the old wind tunnel where you see the "cobweb" covered feeling... I assume the assembling lines are the same everywhere, at Guzzi only everything in a small scale. But the new up to date Cali 1400 rolls out of the Guzzi assembly line in Mandello del Lario...

As far as I understand, the factory tour is possible only during the open days. I've been there twice and it's always a great experience. Other than that, there's only the museum open during a short period each day (Mo-Fri 3:00 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. (July 2:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m.), August closed. Once you are in Nothern Italy, why not see the factories of Ducati (Bologna) or MV Agusta (Varese) also, where you just enrol thourgh their web pages for a factor tour. I have never heard that Aprilia (Noale) would have any factory tours for end consumers on regular basis.

I was last year at the open days (but its only 2752 km from my house) - its seems to be always the second week-end of September. Next year it will be a special occasion once more, beause Guzzi will have its 95 year clebration. So if anybody plans to come from overseas, 9/2016 is the time to visit.

I wonder why did Guzzi stop using the "Ram-Air" air intake which they had on the previous model, Sport1100? The motor is not so much different? They could have just shaped the suction pipe end differently? Instead the suction tube was fitted with a snorkel. One suggestion I read was that maybe the V11 system is a "Helmholz resonator"...

I found this to be a good way to service the K&N filter also . One significant thing is I guess for what purpose you want to optimize you Guzzi. For track, for all around use, for long distance economy etc. I remember P.Roper mentioning that since the same (paper in this case) filter is used in much more powerful bikes, why shouldn't it work on Guzzis. On our case the V11 is in the "powerful end", though. Here's a quote from him(Grisoghetto): "Aftermarket air filters are almost universally awful.If you want to waste some money and trash your engine there are few better ways.Oh, you could add an O2 sensor fooler I suppose and one of those washable oil filters if you want to complete the full trifecta of awful." Some examples: GU30113600: 1100Sport, Bellagio, California 1100 (94-11), Centauro, Daytona, Quota, V11. AP8104211: Breva 850 (06-07), Breva 1100 (05-07), Breva 1200 (07), Sport 1200 (06-11), Norge 1200 (06-14), MGS-01 Corsa (04-07). Aprilia RSV 1000 (99-03), Tuono 1000 (02-05). AP8104329: Stelvio 1200 (08-15), Griso 850 (06-07), Griso 1100 (05-08), Griso 1200 (07-15), California 1400 (13-15). Aprilia Tuono (06-15), RSV 1000 (04-08), RSV4 R (11-14).

Being a newbie here in relation to many others (6 years with a Guzzi)... one of the first things that I did to my first one (Cali) was to cut off the “snorkels” and install a K&N CG-9002 air filter. After that… the majority of what I have read over many Guzzi forums, other reports and also on a Aprilia (AF1) forum (my son has a RSV 1000R CER) => we are now "testing" on both bikes 100% original set up. Paper filters, all parts there, as they should be. If Meinolf would post his findings (measured lambda values) about the “snorkels” on a V11 many readers would be surprised, I assume.

This is true. Here in Europe the Roper plates are not so frequently used, I assume. I might install one some day. I'v got the picture that here people tend to fill 4 liters and that's it. I have used 4 liters for years (just fill in and forget it) and have never had excess oil in the air box. PS. On V11 the dipstick is turned fully in when checking the oil, for some reason on the last generation Cali 1100 from 2006 on not anymore.

As the downloadable leaflets here show, I understand that Guzzi sold a kit: ”Titanium”, which always included both the ecu and the silencers. Somebody attached once copies (on some forum) of the Guzzi original throttle adjustment instructions which came with the Titanium kit, and there it says: “The silencers have to be fitted with Titanium Racing CDI, using these silencers with other CDI could damage the engine.” The rare Nero- and Rosso Corsas did not include this Titanium kit from the factory. Meinolf (again, the one who knows everything about 15M ecus ) actually confirmed me when I asked if he wanted a copy of a titanium ecu software that my pal has, that he has already that software and it is nothing else than the standard ecu and mapping which makes the motor run more rich. Since the kit was sold “only for track use”, I assume the ecu is always a 15M, not 15RC, although Nero- and Rosso Corsas came out with cats and 15RC. The first row that GuzziDiag shows, is always “fixed” and comes with the model selection. The ecu type “15M” and tps type “PF3C” are always as a pair there, and come from the GuzziDiag PC software. It shows to the user, what has been selected. You can check this by selecting another Guzzi type. Actually the important thing is that the ecu and tps types are right, the type of the motorcycle can be anything. For example the setting “California Jackal/Special/Stone or any V11 model which has 15M ecu do work quite as well. Only the next two rows are read from the ecu (and can be written with TunerPro). IAW 15M. C"X" => I have also been wondering this marking. As far as I understand it defines the ecu more in detail. So if someone needs an ecu, if one can be found with the very same text like “IAW 15M.C7”, it works (after reflashing with GuzziDiiag Tools) for sure no matter from which bike it came. But people have succeeded in installing also ecus where the last markings do not match 100%. For example many people have changed to their Ducatis race ecus and there seem to be second hand ecus available from Ducatis (the original ones) with fair prices (original second hand Guzzi ecus are more rare). I have understood that the GuzziDiag Writer reflashes (partly?) also the “firmware” (who I am) of the ecu, not only the “software” (maps).

The writing process (15M) is fast (some 30 sec) and you can write again and again practically endlessly, the writing itself is not a big thing. Did you use the difference tool of TunerPro to find differences between the two maps? I found someting on my maps (compared to standard maps) but that was too far out for me, Meinolf kindly explained it to me... I hope I understood something... There can be something inside the maps that cannot be seen under the "tunable" (TunerPro) easily. Specially if the map is made by a specialist (Techno Researach?). But I'm not that handy with these things... My map comes also from a specialist Company. This Morning I changed the CO value. After that, when switching GuzziDiag on again, the temperature reading was suddenly 40C (right was 67C, no heat paste on the sensor). Then I noticed that I had the "freezing" problem again. Often when I start the motor, the connection to GuzziDiag freezes. After changing the cables to go "off" the bike as soon as possible avoiding the spark plug cables the situation is better. I don't know if the twin spark system on my motor affects this. After booting the PC and keeping the bike turned off during the boot the temperature reading was OK (= connection "online" working). For a short time I thought I cannot adjust the CO anymore and the motor was not idling good with my test with value "0". So, could it be that if the connection is not working, the temperature reading can be anything... Do the throttle Graphics work on the GuzziDiag screen (when throttle is moved) when the temperature reading is "false"?

Back in 7/2012 I measured voltmeter V / GuzziDiag V: 0.160V/0.000V [-1.41Deg], 0.470V/0.465V [3.03Deg].

If you flash this *.bin file ("write" with the IAW15x -writer) to the ecu which is not working, you should have after that two identical 15M ecus .

Pauldaytona and Meinolf are the authorized and experienced experts here but since they are supporting so many forums, I dare to say: The value displayded by GuzziDiag should not be used for the 150 mV base setting. GuzziDiag shows exactly that, what the ecu (no matter if 15M or 15RC) gives out. The smaller the throttle opening is, the less accurate the showed value is (can be easily checked out by using a voltmeter at the same time). This is due to the used analog to digital sampling rate by the ecu. For the "150 mV" basic setting the official instruction is: do not use GuzziDiag, use instead your "voltmeter" (showing millivolts here of course) as always. So three cables are needed for convenience. The "Caspers" to connect the voltmeter easily and the two (Fiat cable and OBD-USB cable) for GuzziDiag. And yes, only the OBD-USB with a FTDI -chip is known to be good (some others have worked also). I have also read that a cable with the FTDI chip is not always easy to find in USA.

The AMP SS-3 Male "3 pin 1.5 Superseal Connectors, 16 - 22 awg (0.5-1.25mm)" is the one which fits (the connector on the wiring is female). I just bought one and used only the housing for the same purpose (lost the original somewhere).

If the gloves cannot be dry cleaned (with hydrocarbon solvent, which is normally used for leather) or if it would be too expensive or not possible because of some hard protective parts on the gloves, you can always try to “imitate” dry cleaning yourself. This is officially a “do not try this at home” thing now: find clean and “not smelling” and “not so aggressive” solvent. Hydrocarbons are often used to ignite charcoal barbecues, as fuel for kerosene lamps, etc. Their flashpoint is above 56 Celsius. The idea is to find a solvent, which is not as smelly and “cheap” as the solvents which are normally used to clean motor parts. Then just pour a liter or two of solvent into a bucket. Wear underneath protective “rubber gloves” (they will last the needed short time). Put on the leather gloves and “bathe” and rub them in your hands in the (cool) solvent. Like you would wash your hands thoroughly. “Greasy” not-chlorinated solvents as hydrocarbons are not so aggressive. When you think the grease has dissolved, let the gloves dry outdoors (of course all this has to be done outdoors). Next day, or after a day or two, the gloves should be dry and not smelly. Temperature accelerates drying. If the leather feels too dry, then just grease them a bit. I would use first only a waterproofing agent (spray bottle), they often make colours a bit more deep and give a slight “greasy” feel also. If this is not enough, then buy leather spray. If products for biker goods cannot be found then something from a furniture shop (for leather) is OK (water proofing/grease). The used solvent has to be "wasted" legally as hazardous waste, like you would do with solvent that you have used to clean motor parts. Actually, the used solvent can be saved and used to clean motor parts...

If it is this one this is not the first time it happens. I remember having read about it. I have once tightened the screw (34) and do not take it out anymore. The metal block (33) is a loose part which can be taken out as a single part (the screw can stay - the tire "fits in" when taken out/back). I wonder if the new type screw with the saftey spin fits to older models ?

Two added; 09 Germany 29 Germany 39 Germany 46 Italy 57 Italy ( in the factory car park) 60 Italy 67 Germany 69 France 77 France 84 Italy 90 Germany 98 Italy 99 Germany 107 Italy 111 Germany 134 Germany 135 Germany 150 Ireland 172 Finland 173 France 180 Germany 191 Germany 200 France 206 Slovenia 221 England 222 Scotland 224 England 225 Scotland 226 Germany 227 England 232 USA 250 Australia 251 Australia 254 Australia 255 Australia 261 Australia 267 Australia 269 USA 272 USA 275 Australia 279 USA 281 USA 283 USA 287 USA 288 USA 300 Netherlands 301 France 310 Isle of Man 311 England 313 England 314 England 352 Australia 353 USA 354 USA 358 USA 365 USA 370 USA 372 USA 373 USA 375 USA 381 USA 383 USA 386 USA 387 USA 392 USA 394 USA 395 USA 396 USA 397 Italy 398 Germany 401 Australia 402 Italy 431 Italy 457 Italy 464 France 484 Wales 489 England 490 Wales 494 England 496 England 497 Northern Ireland 498 Scotland 500 England 502 Wales 505 Singapore 539 USA 544 USA 545 NZ 555 Italy 565 Germany 568 Italy 580 Denmark 595 Italy 597 USA 598 USA 599 USA 617 USA 642 Germany 655 Czech 666 Italy 672 Finland 688 Italy

I did not mean that. English is not my native language, I apologize if I offended you in any way. I tried to express that Scud can compare and describe how he feels the difference every day, I rely on the fact how I felt, when the clutch was changed for me. Me too. I liked the lighter feel of the single plater better. But of course the situation can be different with other bikes. I have nothing against other opinions nor do I condemn them in any way .

This has also been discussed on the German V11 site but I have never seen any part number for a push rod for the single plater. I felt that the push rod should be a bit shorter for the two plater, since I had to adjust the lever (the screw on the handle which pushes the main cylinder) so that the clutch would not catch so "far away". I was used to a different position (clutch engagement) with the single plater. Here's a page from a spare part book for 2001-2002 V11 models: No remarks = All models "LM/SN" = V11 LeMans/Sport Naked “LMT/S” = V11 Lemans Tenni/Scura

Maybe the difference to what Scud says was because the single plater on mine was 20.000 miles driven and 9 years old, but on the installed two plater only the flywheel and the toothed wheel for the starter were used parts, all other parts were new - also the springs. Last september, when I had all the 63 turns of Passo Stelvio through - my left hand was kind of sore... Guzzi writes 6/2003 "...on all motorcycles with sintered single disc clutch, which are recognizable from a lower load on the handlebar lever...", but on that technical information they speak about Cali. Also here, Scuds word is the trustworthy one, because he has the both options.

http://www.hmb-guzzi.de/shop/Clutch/Clutch-internals/. Different clutch plate for single disc (RAM) and stock clutch (two plater). On mine the single plater needed much less force on the lever to use. I liked it better. Only the flywheel had bad cracks and I was not ready to change the whole clutch every 20.000 miles.

I have had the two plater from 30.000 kms on. And as quoted before, my mechanic said: "one or two starts more and the flywheel parts would have been flying round your head". Interesting subject, though. If the weight difference is only 0,68 kg (two plater 5,48 minus new one plater 4,80), why bother ? Specially when Scud says that there is not too much difference between the one- and two plater and he has both options to choose from, daily. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=8713: "Posted 22 August 2006: The warranty-takeoff single-plate clutches from a Cali can be easily lightened to Sport or RAM weight. When fitted with the right plate, they work great, and they're made of good, old reliable steel. I'm building a hot-rod Tonti LeMans with a Sport 1100i engine in it, and that's the clutch I'm gonna fit it with. My Eldo already has one, since September of last year. // I have salvaged three of those flywheel/clutch systems sor far. They totally transformed my Eldo and 850T."

When I have had a look at single disc clutch prices, they have always been surprisingly low. Around 290£ the complete package or so. This is why I have thought that if I would have the enthusiasm to change the complete package always after each 10.000 miles, I would use the single disc RAM. Just to have the "original Scura feel", which is not possible with any dual disc clutch... About the availability - I have not asked myself, I just noticed that it is on their lists.