Camn

"I guess I download and mail my .bin file off to the GuzziDiag developers to convert to XDF so I can see or edit the map in Tunerpro. Can I generate an edited bin or do I have to send off the edited XDF to the GuzziDiag developers again to convert back to bin so I can import again?" You just send once your *.bin file to Guzzidiag developers. They will not touch or convert it, they just store it for the database. You will get from them as a reward the *.xdf -file, which you import to your TunerPro. The sending of the *.bin file... I think our friends at the "Guzzidiag labs" just use it as a means to get their maps database larger and larger . After having received the *.xdf -file, you will need nobody... you can admire the contents of our Ecu, do changes and upload it all back to our ecu. The developers wrote that they estimate that there are 300-400 active Guzzidiag users out there. There must be quite a few V11 maps also in their hands. I would not be surprised, if you would get some maps from them which you can try out or use as a base for alterations of your own. This was very educational for me: http://www.bikeboy.org/fuelinjection.html. Only the writer speaks about milliseconds and as discused before, on the Weber-Marellis of Guzzis the values are not so straight forward.

"Is there a step by step guide for this stuff" I used the "ape-method": just push everything and see what happens... It is not quite ”Autotune” yet… Guzzidiag = shows you the same as the official Software and Axone device. Mainly just to see and do normal service related things. IAW15xReader = to read the “map –Data” out form the ecu, the result is a *.bin –file. TunerPro = to examine, analyze and change the *.bin –file. The *.XDF –file for the TunerPro = inevitable to see the *.bin file so that you can understand and change it. The file can be received from the Guzzidiag –Developers. IAW15xWriter = to write back the altered *.bin –file to the ecu. The point 4. recuires that you know your way. Dyno + specialist is often a preferred solution. I for example, have busied myself with the point 1, and I have had short affairs with the points 2-4, but I myself would never go to point 5 without skilled help...

"Missed gears, false neutrals, inconsistant lights, strange noises and poor 1st gear selection. Diagnosis: It's a Moto Guzzi" Missed gears, false neutrals = happens sometimes...it's a Moto Guzzi Strange noises = only the clutch when the handle is not squeezed and the motor is on idle... Poor 1st gear selection = when the clutch handle is released a bit, then 1st gear engages... Inconsistant lights = never experienced

The Öhlins steering damper on Guzzis is known to develop "start friction" during the years (I don't know the exact english word for it). This can be felt, when you have dismounted the steering damper and test it in your hands. When you try to move the shaft, the movement should start with no "barrier force", very easily. If you feel first a certain "step" or "force", which is needed to start the movement, then it needs servicing. I had mine serviced and the difference (when tested with this method) was surprisingly big. The changed parts were 221301 reservoir, 222202 gasket and 105609 bushing (recommended inspection every 20-30.000 km, mine was 35.000 km). Öhlins Manual: "Set the damper to maximum hard by turning the knob clockwise until it stops. Set the damper to 10 clicks counter clockwise towards maximum soft position. Go for a test ride. If your vehicle feels unstable, turn the adjustment knob clockwise two steps at a time, until you have the performance you desire. In urban areas we recommend you to set the steering damper to maximum soft, do not set the damper to less than 5 clicks." When I tested the steering front wheel up (so that the steering moved easily), the positioin "7 open" was the hardest setting where I felt the movement was very smooth and stable all the way (I moved the steering fast left/right). This is where I use it now. With this test I tried to imitate the wobbling movement, which is said to be a tendency of all V11:s with no (LeMans) -fairing (like Scura) above 120 km/h (at least the models with the shorter axis length). When I tested the wobbling by giving an impulse to the handle bars above 120 km/h, I do not feel any big difference with different settings. If something, a softer setting cold mean a little less "waves" after the first impulse.

On the V11 Scura steering damper there are the numbers: "S01280 109758". According my understanding it is the Öhlins SD 110, stroke 90 mm, min length 34,5 mm, max length 275,5 mm. http://www.ohlins.eu/download/7/Ohlins_DTC_Manual-eng-road-track-steering-damper.pdf