LowRyter

D = Dis Side S = 'Snot disside

Like I said, Don is confident and I am hopeful. I looks really ugly right now. There are a couple of local shops that specialize in aluminum welding, so if he can't fix it and doesn't ruin it, there are other places.....

You might not have seen this is in the thread about my cracked transmission case. Since I haven't been able to find the bell housing cradle, I am getting a few made. Contact me if you want one. Red Frame Bellhousing Bracket. I get 5 for the price of one. Anyone that wants one, the price is $60+ shipping. It will be aluminum and will be waterjetted from the template off my bike. Since it's aluminum it will match the engine and won't need to be painted. So if you want one and to help me defer the cost, let me know. It's no deal breaker for me either way but I hope that this benefits a couple of us here as well as me. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19814&p=218299

well..... went by the shop today. The transmission case looks pretty bad. It's hard to weld because it's so porous. Basically the bottom side has a hairline crack in about 1 inch curve. The outside is pretty ugly. Don said he expects to finish welding it and will clearcoat the case since the casting is so porous it will be less likely to stain (like that's my big worry). Maybe it will be done next week. Don is confident and I am hopeful. Anyway, the bellhousing bracket. I get 5 for the price of one. Anyone that wants one, the price is $60+ shipping. It will be aluminum and will be waterjetted from the template off my bike. Since it's aluminum it will match the engine and won't need to be painted. So if you want one and to help me defer the cost, let me know. It's no deal breaker for me either way but I hope that this benefits a couple of us here as well as me. I'll make a note in the other thread. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1797&p=218300

All I can say, I used a red magic marker on the needle when I had the tach apart on the EV. After about 6 years, it's pretty well faded.

I use the timing marks (d & S) on the flywheel. Then I take my feeler gauge, if I can get the gauge in there, the valves are closed and and be adjusted, if I can't get the feeler in there, I know I am 360 out and that one (or both?) of the valves is open. I am not sure this answers your question but I use the marks and feeler for TDC on the compression stroke. I also put a red mark on the spinner of the front of the engine so I can look for the timing mark. This is because I can easily "overrun" the D/S on the compression stroke since there is little resistance in the valve train and no compression with the spark plugs out. I can't remember if I made the mark for the D or S.

while rock and roll is in known for white guys trying to sound black, Chuck invented rock and roll by imitating and mocking white country music. it's hard to imagine what we would be listening to today without Chuck. Perhaps the greatest influence on popular music and music in general than anyone in history. Rollover Beethoven.

the crack is about 2 inches long in the area that is ground down. Beyond that I don't know. The piece was sent out to the powder-coater to get baked. They're running it through some heat cycles. I likely won't see it until it's welded and being fitted into the bike. Then Don (mechanic) will make a template and cut out the bracket.

Actually, there is more to it than that. There is a thermal shock element, I think. At any rate, baking before welding is a better than good idea. That's somewhat true Chuck, more the mitigation of distortion though I think. The lesser the heat gradient during welding the less distortion. My friend that has vast experience welding Ducati cases showed me how after welding near the main bearing bore the hole became somewhat out of round. The solution?......a hammer and small steel drift and peen around the cases internally adjacent to the main bearing bore and weld and presto tension forces released and bearing bore round again. I have used the clean the cases and warm them up to locate cracks before. The oil will seep out of the crack and is faintly visable. Dye check is way better though. Dont know where the l/h lug crack originates but I do know it has a flat face machined on its outer face with no real radius on it. Anyone confirm if this is where it cracks or is it where the lug joins the main case? Ciao I am pretty clueless what you asking about. Perhaps the photo doesn't answer your question.

I have no doubt the cradle was an add-on fix that Guzzi made from the experience that Docc had. Like the roller rocker issue for the early 8 valves, this is pretty much a hidden warranty, the problem is forgotten and the few parts issued are gone now. Some of these bikes, like mine, have few miles on them and probably never ran into the problem when new. I purchased mine 5 years ago, the bike had 12k miles on, it has 36k now. looking at the photo on post #50, I think you are mentioning a lower frame rail connected to the pork chop? That is probably the elegant fix vs the add-on cradle. It makes sense the torsional twist that we love to feel in a Guzzi might be responsible for cracking the transmission. Obviously my biggest concern is fixing the transmission. If we solve that, then I am game for fixing the frame one way or another. And as I think about it, the real culprit as my riding buddy Darren points out, is the same reason I wear out rear tires: my right wrist.

I have the Cal Cycle Works TPS on my EV ($75). Actually, the previous owner had replaced the factory part with the Harley TPS before I bought it. I got 35k+ miles out of that one before it was replaced. I returned a Harley part & returned another Cal part before finding one that works. A fellow on WG had a similar experience with a replacement TPS. I wonder if these replacements are made in China?

MAW- baking the part, meaning heating it in a hot oven to dissipate all of the oil out of the part so the welder can make a good weld.

I called Harper's and they do not have the bracket- no surprise. The shop was going to resize the photo and correct for any stretch in the image. I would imagine that they would check the bike with a tape measure before they cut any holes. Anyway, once it's done they should have the measurements and ability to make more. I dropped off some Corvette Venetian Red paint yesterday from AutoZone to match the frame. And I've sent them some more business yesterday from a buddy that tried but failed to rewire electronic ignition on his Duc bevel single (there are lots of us out here).

The way it is done (in your photos) takes the least number of things apart, so probably the best way to do it when dollars are by the hour, or time is of the essence. It doesn't look like the motor was lowered, even. So, it seems it would be tight getting everything in and out. Not sure why the battery is lifted out? Maybe the guy has never done this on a V11 before, so his mind is not clouded by *conventional wisdom* and really has found a great way to get the gearbox out&in with minimal wrenching? Some guys have a knack for that. That there are no hammers in view is either cause for suspicion or a sign of brilliance . . . I doubt if he's ever torn down another Spine Frame despite working on Ducatis, Guzzis, classics and customs. I would guess that 2/3 of the world's population that have taken a spine frame apart more than once are connected to this board. Me not being one of them. All I know is that he called me at 6 pm on Saturday evening and asked if I wanted him to tear it down. Then I get to his shop on Monday morning around 11 am and you see the photos with everything apart and he's already ground down the gear box housing and has it apart. He's also been invited to show his Sporster Cafe racer (painted red frame, no shit) at COTA Moto GP. He's one a few shows with his custom Ducatis too.

http://www.harpermoto.com/connecting-brkt-01202830.html $33.82 at Harpers. I might call them and see if they have one in stock. But not in MG cycles look up. CONNECTING BRKT (#01202830)

Phil, talked to the shop and they are getting dimensions for a water jet. They seemed agreeable that to make additional pieces.

is semi-crabbed better or worse?

here's some more photos, Tim

8mm is just a little smaller than 3/8 in. Why would that matter?

Phil, I'll ask Don about the possibility of making an extra cradle if he is able to make one for me. Obviously I am not certain about the success of anything right now regarding repair of my bike but I can certainly ask. Perhaps if there is broader interest, he might see a business opportunity?

.....I am more concerned about getting it back together.

I might sell you my Greenie, after the repairs I think I could let it go for $10k (and may still lose money).

the shock is disconnected from the frame but I believe the swingarm is still connected.

went to the shop. Don has got the bike in pieces. He's pressing on to fix it. The transmission is apart and he'll bake all the fluid out of the offending piece and weld it. I also gave him the photo Docc posted of the bracket and gave him this website to review it. He thought he could fab that up too. He'd like to get the bike completed by the end of the week. I am not sure if he expects to fix the plastic by then or not. He didn't express a big concern about it. Of course it's my $$. here's the bike and here's the ground out crack If he gets it done this week, he might finish it before I get my clutch cable replaced on the EV. The good news is the weather is lousy and I won't be riding anyway. My hope is to have the bike ready for the Ozark RAT Raid in late April. I might make it to Dusty's Rally in Cedar Vale Ks the weekend after. Nothing would be better than having both bikes on the road next weekend.

The whole rear of the bike is hanging on a hoist. You can see the black straps in the middle top of the photo.