LowRyter

thanks

are there only the two allen bolts that attach the caliper to the bracket?

Thanks Michael, I'll do it next time. I just had a rear tire replaced unexpectedly on the road Friday. When changing it the mechanic noticed the brakes were shot, the inside pad has no material left. Unfortunately, there were no pads in stock. I am back home now and I am going on a 400 miles on Saturday and don't have the time for all that you suggest now. And since this full sports Dunlop Qualifier, I'll have the wheel off again replacing it in abouit 3000 miles. So it won't be long and I can grease it then. The tire that was punctured was new, so I believe the PO did all the required maintenance. I've ordered the pads and am hopeful to get them in time to make the ride. I don't want to run into snags, so I am asking for the quickest way for success. When I've replaced pads, I've always removed the caliper. I might be able to do it while the caliper is still attached per the instructions. BTW- there are only two allen head bolts that attach to the caliper to the bracket?

ok, change the pad but don't remove the caliper. how do you pry the caliper pistons without damaging the disc?

I don't have a stand to take off the rear wheel. If I take the caliper off, is it only held by the two allan bolts? Or do I have to take the bracket off too?

I am ordering new rear pads for my V11 Sport. Am I correct that only two allen bolts hold the caliper on the bracket? Researching on the forum, it appears that one can replace the pads without removing the caliper. Is there any preference? I am little concerned that I might have a problem wedging the pads in a tight fit. any hints would be appreciated.

Those Sport mirrors work better than the OEM mirrors on my Suzuki Bandit. They were in a box of spare parts that came with my Sport. I researched the topic to figure out how the mirror stalks stayed tight.

get well soon''' but won't all the oil drain when you open the cover?

I ran the numbers a few years back but I haven't verified them with GPS or radar. From http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13940&hl=speed RPM = MPH 8000 = 141.39 7500 = 132.55 7000 = 123.72 6500 = 114.88 6000 = 106.04 5500 = 97.21 5000 = 88.37 4500 = 79.53 4000 = 70.7 3500 = 61.86 3000 = 53.02 2500 = 44.18 cool,,,just what I was looking for....I doubt the bike will pull much more than 7k in top gear if that.

I told you it was a good runner.. it's a hoot & a holler.

I would guess that 6k would put it about 101 mph (I think I have the narrow rear tire...quick handling)

actually my V11 (unlike my EV) does fine at 3k in 6th. It pulls like a train really. that's one reason I wanted to know the speed. whoever set up the tune made a strong midrange on this one.

I wanted actual actual. like tire circumference times X gears X RPM. I thought someone might have that. calculated speed from RPM in top gear. at 6k it's going pretty quickly.

I wonder if anyone has as the computed speed for riding the v11 sport in top gear at 4k, 5k, and 6k rpms?

I've run maybe 4 or 5 tankfuls and getting about 32 mpg. Maybe a little better than my Suzuki Bandit gets. I think the gas light comes on about 130 miles. My EV gets about 40 mpg and the gas light come on about 135 miles

I've serviced both ends of the cable. I lubed it, tightened those two screws on the speedo unit, taken the tranny drive off, it moved freely and the brass fitting is tight. I did get it all back together after taking it apart & it all still works about the same. Since the previous owner did top maintenance, I'm not surprised that I didn't find a quick fix. I am bothered that the lube seeps out the cable at the connection at the tranny drive. It gave me an opportunity to putter around on it, I did no apparent harm. It's minor nigle for now (knock wood).

thanks for the link Doc. Looking at the photos, I need to take the elbow n the transmission connection apart? make sure the gears are ok and meshing.

I didn't notice any additional screws on the speedo unit, I just unscrewed the cable & lubed it. Just checked the tranny end and the oil was dripping out. That doesn't seem right, I'd think the cable should be be sealed. I tightened the cable fastener, it wasn't lose but I did tighten it. The fitting of the transmission seemed tight. The leak was on the cable fastener not at the transmission mount. didnt make a difference on the test ride.

I lubed it with some teflon oil. didn't seem to make a difference. I think there might be something with the unit itself. It doesn't like to reset to zero when sitting still until it's shaken by the vibration of the engine.

the hose clamp is the same thing I do for the EV. but you have to drop the pan to change filter, which is due at 9-10k miles (apprx every 3rd oil change + tranny, rear end & valve adj). When I read the interval for the Sport it's like 6k for the filter change.

so 3 in 1 or sometype of oil? Not grafite or dry lube? and I just unscrew it from the speed unit, drip lube inside the cable and let gravity take it all the way to the tranny?

you're saying replace it after it breaks? lubrication is futile? (I don't how but assume that graphite application might work). Any idea what the cable costs and how long it takes to order?

Now that we've discussed the broken tach, does anyone have experience with the speedometer with needle jumping around? It goes up & down the scale tracking my speed, but it just jumps around plus & minus 5 mph. I know that I am in the right "zone" according to the speedo. So it's an approximation of my actual speed. Am I right to think the speedo cable needs to be lubed or replaced or is this something else?

take the tach off the mount and shake it gently. If you hear the weight bouncing around you know it needs to be glued back to the round bracket. Since the tach needle is stuck high on the scale, I would give a good bet it's the simple counterweight. Easy fix, but not easy to take apart & reassemble. If it doesn't rattle, then it might be the windings. I was lucky enough to fix mine. I took a red magic marker to the needle.