LowRyter

"red dirt girl" would make us all cry, so I'll post this one. Actually, I've always been an indy 500 fan and like "Speedway at Nazareth" but every song is a jewel.

here's my fav

what?

When I am on a motorcycle I want to see at night. I don't care if the whole town has to put on sunglasses so I can drive safely at night. Sorry, but I don't want to crash even if I blind all traffic on the road.

You're a true Guzzi Hero Phil. Sometimes that's worth more than gold.

Phil. you're a World Superbike mechanic? I don't think I could afford you.

Phil, the 916 is only 25 years old. So it's doubtful that you've been working on them for 35. My point wasn't only concerning Desmo Ducs in general, it's what I've been told about the 916 specifically. For example, the local Duc guy here removes the 916 (996) engine as a first step, then the heads to adjust the valves. The upgrade for the valve train was $2200 in parts for longer service interval. It's not unusual for an expensive bill and the service intervals are pretty short, perhaps better with upgraded valve train parts. I realize that many here are DIY guys but some of us aren't. So I suppose the 916 would be a great acquisition for you. These bikes were pretty cheap 10-15 years ago, recently I've seen them come up in price perhaps after the supply of bikes have diminished and the remaining ones have been upgraded. For me, I'm not going to tackle my 939 SS for the 18k service. There are however, kits that can be leased with tools, consumables and instructions for garage DIY-ers.

916 isn't cheap, even if you get one free. Think about $2k (or more) for a complete service. Then add typical routine service.

po18- there is thread here about airbox mods. Mainly three teardrops across the top of the box.

I'd say those photos win!

I still have those bulbs in both my Guzzis. They don't seem terribly bright but no worse than standard 55 wt halogen but no where near a 100 wt halogen. Hopefully they don't pull much current. I always have the old H4 bulbs in my tank bag, JIC.

If you're referring to my Greenie. The bags are aftermarket Hepco Becker JR. They offered in two sizes that will fit the mounts. The questions is whether you can locate the mounts? Try Moto Machines, they're the US importer and can get anything that's available. https://www.motomachines.com/ My bike has a handlebar conversion by previous owner, the bars give great leverage when cornering but not as comfy as the OEM clip ons. I am stretched and arms into the wind but it works OK. It might contribute to my weave issue. Realy, a flyscreen and bags are about all you need to tour. The only mod you might make to the bike are Buell pegs to give a little more leg room.

I've ridden my Greenie from Okla City to the Spineframe Raid in North Carolina. I've ridden it to Austin Texas to MotoGP on several occasions, twice to Springfield Ill to the Flat Track races and ridden it several times to the Ozarks in Arkansas and Missouri. That doesn't count day trips of 300 miles. I have 45k miles on the machine. I find the airflow and seat to be fine. The only downside is leg room, I do recommend frequent stretch stops. I usually can't make it more a full 140+ miles for a full gas stop. I already mentioned how to set up the suspension with big bags on the back. I've also trailered the bike in my Toy Hauler to Daytona Bikeweek, Colorado, Indy, etc. This one also has a carbon factory flyscreen like the Scura.

I went through some suspension business on my Greenie. It gets a little weave when around 80 with HB Jr saddle bags. I screwed around with the rear shock, got it rebuilt (external clicker didn't work) and heavier spring. Not a big difference IMO. What I finally discovered was I had the fork set too stiff. The adjusters make a huge difference on the front. If it's stiff, it makes the front "bounce" and not compliant. So when I put the bags on, I soften the front, I can stiffen the back but it seems to do little. I know it's a little counterintuitive to actually soften the bike when loaded but the saddle bags are big and behind the rear axle. So keep the rear stiff and front soft. So, my advice: 1) make sure the adjusters work on the shock and forks. 2) If they do, adjust them and you'll be surprised how you can dial it in, especially on the front. I keep a small screwdriver in my tank bag, so I can easily adjust the forks I move the adjusters in tandem in the same direction. I usually keep it in the middle range but put it quite soft when I load the back of the bike with saddlebags. Actually, I keep it in a "sweet spot" now and it seems to work 80% of the time. Now for tires. As mentioned I've known folks that have ridden Shinkos for years. I've never heard a complaint. I'd just ride them until they were worn or if they felt squirrelly (doubtful IMO). I'd keep the 170 on the rear, it's another reason the bike feels to agile.

Just ride it.

I think they all do it.

I'll bet it's harder getting it back up.

I've known several riders that ride lots of miles on Shinkos and save their good tires for the twisties. And some just ride Shinkos all the time. Me? I've never ridden them. I've got Dunlops on my Sport since it ate up Michelins and I have no need to pay that much. I have Pirelli Rosso Diablo III on my Ducati and they are really good, more touring sport tires than vice versa.

where's the Vincent photo?

BTW, is you bike Black, Silver or Green? The green ones are much faster not so slow.

Red frame bikes are the sportiest of the lot. If you feel some weave when you ride at speed just loosen up the adjusters on the front fork. You might stiffen the rear. But It's probably good to go. Mine only has the issue when I put on heavy saddlebags on the back of the bike. The other issue with a red frame bike is the need to install a bracket on the bell housing to mount to the frame. This should prevent the gearbox housing from cracking. I know a shop here that has built some kits to do that, Don can supply you with the bracket and fasteners that he patterned off my bike: http://www.motivcycleworks.com/ Most would think that $2300 is a smoking deal. You can browse the forum for all the issue and upgrades.

I wouldn't burn 17 cent gas in that silver bike Docc. Jus' sayin'.

Gary Scott installed the shorter gearing on his EV and really likes it. He pulls a camper on occasion.

1. So far as I know, that "stutter" at low RPM is pretty common. If you look at dyno chart, you'll see there is torque hole at about 1800-2200 rpm, I'd guess it drops about 30% until it comes back up. My bike does it even with a Power Commander. I've noticed that new plugs will help it for a little while but mostly riders just gas it until they don't notice it. I can't help you with the lack of top end power, it seems like mine is the sweet spot at 3500-6500. (Mine has an airbox mod, slip on pipes and crossover as well.) 2. That seppage on the right side could be the timing chest gasket, you might check for that. Put some powder on it to check it. I wouldn't think these things would prevent you from having a nice ride home.

Bob, You might consider getting a brace for the gearbox that bolts the bellhousing to the frame (for Red Frame bikes like yours). This will prevent cracking the transmission case. I am not aware of any factory braces being available but the tech I know in Okla City fabricated some kits (brace + fasteners) based upon fixing my bike. I'd recommend the brace as a preventative measure. Talk to Don at Motiv Cycleworks. http://www.motivcycleworks.com/ You can also research the issue on the forum by doing a search. I think once you read and see the photos you'll understand the risks. pretty bike silver + black.