LowRyter

that's more equipment than I have now. And think about it Skate and The Great One are out & about and having a ball. Maybe they know what they're doing? They might have more fun doing shit than we have talking about it.

Mr. Nevada and Skate would have you fixed up in no time.. I am glad I only met Leafman once (for the embarrassment of it all, he's a great guy)

Thanks CZakky. I need to score a work stand, I have two buddies and two shops that have them. I am just glad I didn't attempt it in the garage and found out the kick stand needed to come off..... and then the whole bike would be balanced on some kind of brick under the engine. The seal is on order, so I'll have to figure it out. It's just a matter of planning and wrenching. I just need to find a stable workplace where I can level the bike and lock the rear wheel (2 ratchet straps on a wheel spoke, zip tie on the rear brake, locked in gear and maybe a 2x4 in the swingarm). It sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

At least you know you put enough on. Just carry a rag & wD40 around with you when you ride it.

*#$%!.....you guys, if I am not confused and stressed enough.... saw that so I redid all my calculations... 8 kg-m = 78 NM = 58 Lb-ft.. then I reread that you did the same. and with my Harbor Freight torque wrench if it's within 5 lb I'll be surprised. Probably just keep it on 60. And for the side stand too. You should see me use a vacuum cleaner tube as a cheater bar. Until I can get use of bike stand, I am saved from myself. I need to call Mr Nevada now.

got my spring today. Looking at it, am I right to say that the diameter of the wire is smaller but it has an extra loop in the spring?

Thanks very much KGLM 8 k-gm= 58 lb-ft

Thanks Scud, I got the the torque specs on my PDF copy of the shop manual. I couldn't find it for the 10mm allenhead but I did for the alternator nut (80 nm = 60 lbft). I forgot about the side stand. For sure I'll need to put it on a shop stand now. thanks

Perhaps you guys can provide a bit of advice for the removal of the timing cover? 1. I checked the manual but could not find a torque value for the 10mm allen head that attaches to the timing cover to the frame. 2. Do I need to support the engine from the bottom when I remove the 10mm allen heads that attach the timing cover to the frame? 3. There plugs at the bottom of the of the timing cover similar to the 10mm allenheads at the top. Are there fasteners under the plugs or are they only cosmetic since there are no bottom frame rails? 4. The big nut on the alternator is torqued at 60 lb-ft (80 NM)? sorry to be a whiney ass on this but I've researched this and had a few questions. I have a buddy with shop table and I need to be prepared on how to get the job completed before I approach him.

Thanks Andy, For now, I'll live with it. Probably the reason that Guzzi decided to paint the engines black.

Thanks Scud. Thanks for everyone's help. For now I'll live with it. The leak appears to originate from the allenhead that was loose. After I rode it was still snug but unfortunately, leaking. It's the one that's at 10 o'clock (top one in the photo).

thanks Scud. For sure if it's upper sump, I'll get after it.

ooh boy. Thanks Scud. I am not going to attempt it. Sounds like frustration and two days of lying on the cold garage floor. And an unknown for my ability to complete it and the outcome for success. At worst I can live with it. I did a clean up and took Docc's advice and checked the allen heads on the timing cover. One was a little loose. I'll respray it with powder along all the seams and give it a ride.

Are you saying your Roper plate has only 1 gasket fitted? Ciao The PO installed the plate. I've never taken it off. I did check that the fasteners were tight when I serviced the bike a few weeks ago. I was just confused why it would need two gaskets if I were to service it. BTw, if I take the timing cover off, do I have to remove the rotor on the alternator?

I have the $5 Harbor Freight trickle chargers. We had some very cold days in the winter. And I've has fewer days to ride. So keeping the batteries charged was totally necessary. The cars I keep outside were not so lucky, Two weak batteries on the Duramax, too weak to jump, and my Trooper was totally dead and had to be replaced.

thanks Docc. I never thought about sandwich-ing the Roper plate.

It did appear to me when I was riding today that light ghosted much less. In fact it went out about 2k, The previous day I had a trickle charger attached it but didn't reattach it before my ride today.

Docc, 1) there are two upper gaskets not just one? 2) I have a breather hose. When I serviced the air filter and replaced the fuel hose, I inspected the breather hose and frame which were clean. It looked like a job more than I wanted to do and saw no benefit. This task alone took me more than 4 Dead records (that tank removal and fuel tap leaks!) 3. I can change the oil again and the gasket and the filter. But I have only 400 miles on it. I did inspect the sloppage plate and all the fasteners were tight. I have a feeling that timing cover won't be much fun. 4. What is the harm of using stop leak? It may not be what a mechanic would do but, I am not a mechanic. Yes, I am a little concerned taking something apart that I am not comfortable with. (I am leaning toward stop leak and more talcum powder.) As always, thanks for the advice.

I got to ride 40 miles today and have oil drips. It's still hard for me figure. I am guessing that it's both the upper pan gasket and the timing cover. There's certainly a sheen around those area, although I sprayed the powder on the front to the engine not all over the side. the cooling fins over the right from corner are wet there's a sheen running across the upper sump plate gasket. and another sheen down the front cover seam. a drop collected in the center next to the fastener relief on the right side of the seam (hard to see here) I am still uncertain. I might try some stop leak and see how it works out.

done. sent PM

I just caught that "high state of charge". I've kept the Greenie battery on a trickle charger all winter. I should've done it on my Trooper and Duramax since there were outside. One new battery and two complete recharges on those. It got real cold here man. A nice 75 today.

I've noticed mine ghosts a little bit, perhap since I installed the LED headlight bulb or because of the reverse-placebo-effect of this thread. I installed the LED because I wanted to take stress of the charging system and getting brighter light.

I believe the transmission recall that Docc mentions is different than the need for the bracket.

The redframe bikes need a transmission bracket to attach the trans to the frame to prevent the transmission case from cracking. I'd get it done before the transmission develops a crack. You can look up my story about it here. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19814&hl=transmission Contact my mechanic in Okla City; he's fabricated a kit with the bracket & fasteners. Or you might be able to find the original but difficult to find Guzzi part. http://www.motivcycleworks.com It's possible the tach has failed because the counterweight has detached. If you hear it rattle, that is likely the case. You would have to remove the bezel and epoxy the weight back on. If you want to get it repaired Joel Levine has serviced the speedo on my Greenie. https://joellevinecompany.com/Speedo-Tach-Repair If you had Rosso Corsa, you're probably familiar with anything else about the bike.