LowRyter

Agree, pretty bike.

Scud, what's the order on the hugger? Is it really $300?

Thanks.

which wire on the ignition switch?

cool drone

Roy, the bike is in the shop. I gave the mechanic a copy of your schematic. The battery and charge system was examined and supposed to have been load tested. The guy works on Ducatis and a dealer for replacement electrics. I'll get these instructions to him. thanks

Chuck, I am told it was overcharging and putting out 18v. All the fuses looked good. BTW- I thought I had the ground reinforced when the fuel pump burned out.

It looks like it's the regulator. I know there are some issues about upgrading the alternator to Ducati type. Hopefully there aren't other issues.

I'd love to ride that track. The F1 cars hit 195 on the back stretch, the MotoGp guys hit 210.

Duncan OK?

Stew, for sure need to check connections. Not only didn't it crank, but no fuel pump and dead neutral light.

Seems reasonable Chuck but, Since the bike should start in gear (with the side stand up), why would the neutral switch kill the fuel pump and starter? If it's the sidestand switch, why would that affect the neutral light?

reading this, it seems to place the start is the neutral switch in the transmission. Found it on MG site. Maybe should check connection and clean it.

Docc- I'll give it a shot whenever I see the bike again. But I did consider a bad battery. I rode it for 25 miles with one restart before I was stranded.

docc, are you meaning that it is a bad connection or problem with ignition switch? BTW- I did move the bars and shake all the controls, kill switches, every combination I could think of.

Neither side stand, nor clutch lever, in and out of gear made any difference- tried all combinations. Turned the key on, headlight came on, oil pressure light, nothing else. Heard a click on the relay.

Docc, Headlight was working. The first sign was the dead neutral light. The #2 (from front) relay clicked. No neutral light, no fuel pump, no starter motor.

My bike is dead as a doornail. I noticed that neutral light was flickering when I stopped. When I tried to restart it, no neutral light, no charge light, no fuel pump, and no starter motor. All dead. I played relay roulette and checked the fuses. No help. Would the kickstand switch or clutch switch cause this? Ignition switch? OBTW- the kickstand was taken off the bike to change out the leaky timing cover gasket. So I suppose the kickstand switch might be a culprit but I don't know how it connects to the neutral light, and fuel pump, I know it defeats the starter motor.

Check and see if it rattles. If so, then the counterweight has come loose. Take the bezel off (hose clamp around the housing and ground down paint can opener pry tool) and glue the counterweight back on. If you need it fixed call Joel Levine https://joellevinecompany.com/Speedo-Tach-Repair But have to agree, buying the used one would be a deal.

I just got back from Tulsa for Tedeschi Trucks Band. Another great show, 2 sets + encore. One of the highlights was "Key to the Highway" with Susan playing Eric and Derrick playing Duane. Everyone in the band got the spotlight. A local Tulsa guy came in a played flat top slide. Several band's staples, "Bound For Glory", "Pity the Fool" and "Midnight in Harlem", Kofi returned to the band this tour and had two flute solos and numerous keyboard bits. The encore began with Susan and Kofi (piano) tribute to Leon, "A Song for You", the band finished with Ray Charles "Let's Get Stoned". See this band if you ever get a chance.

along the same lines, someone here found a gold valves fork kit from Race Tech for the V11 LeMans. It's not listed on their site, but someone here found one. probably a couple hundred $.

I am going to need a rear tire before I ride to Ark. I need to burn off the last 1k on the rear Dunlop Qual. I wonder how an Attack rear will play with a Dunlop front?

Road Attack? Sport Attack?

So you went DOWN to 160 rear? Yeah, 170 should make it a little more stable.

I think the mods you made to raise the rear, lower the front and go to 170 (from 180?) tire all would contribute to making the bike turn quicker. Actually that would be pretty drastic for a Redframe since the bike turns quickly in the first place. I like the 170 tire, but the original geometry seems to be quick enough and might contribute to some of the high speed weave. I suppose you can experiment with tires but I think the mods you've done have had the opposite of what you were trying to achieve. I've ridden on Michelins, Pirelli and Dunlops. Not much difference in them to be honest. For cost and performance, I prefer the Dunlops. The Michelins didn't last any longer and offered no handling benefit at about 50% more cost. My suggestion is to go back to stock geometry and 170 tire and then experiment from that baseline.