LowRyter

Docc, does your fork feel a little wimpy?

I am not sure my left ankle has a million shifts left in it.

Good point, CZ. The oil is beaten like a scrambled egg. I would assume once the oil is broken down that fork is a little wimpy?

Docc, Always good. I suppose. There is no combustion and the forks are sealed from dirt and grime. It's a total PIA to do. I only do it to change out the seals and bushings. Since there is no expected life limits on those items, I only do it when I see a leaky seal or felt that the fork action isn't responsive. The only time I wanted a fork apart that wasn't leaking was on my Bandit, it was upgraded with better springs and Race Tech gold valves, made a huge difference. The Greenie seems better to me than the after the Suzuki was upgraded. Anyway, I am ordering a new rear shock, working on oil leaks and wondering about the servicing the fork that isn't leaking. I am still of the opinion "if it ain't broke...."

So what is the reason to drill holes in the rubber in cush drive? It seems like it would flex more and cause the rubber to deteriorate.

the big question: if the seals aren't leaking should I bother with service? I say, no. I need guidance and advice.

I have a Stop and Go plug kit and I also keep a Slime compressor with me. I've used the compressor more times than I can remember. It works fine, it's a little tricky to thread on the valve stem. I've used the plug kit twice. Once on the rear of my EV and another on the right front on my Isuzu Trooper. Neither tire ever leaked. I carry both with me when I travel in my Corvette which has run flat tires and no spare or jack. I am not sure I would find a nail because the car is low to the ground and the tires are very wide. I highly recommend both the Stop and Go kit and the Slime compressor. I seldom ride a motorcycle without those in my tank bag.

let me ask, does more fluid make it stiffer? Wait, more sex talk. nevermind.

No need to talk about your sex life, Docc. I think you might be posting on the wrong forum.

So far as I can tell, too much is never enough here. You might go blind if you read about the alternator light.

why not take the contents of oil drained from the forks and measure that? That would be good yardstick on how much to refill?

that's more equipment than I have now. And think about it Skate and The Great One are out & about and having a ball. Maybe they know what they're doing? They might have more fun doing shit than we have talking about it.

Mr. Nevada and Skate would have you fixed up in no time.. I am glad I only met Leafman once (for the embarrassment of it all, he's a great guy)

Thanks CZakky. I need to score a work stand, I have two buddies and two shops that have them. I am just glad I didn't attempt it in the garage and found out the kick stand needed to come off..... and then the whole bike would be balanced on some kind of brick under the engine. The seal is on order, so I'll have to figure it out. It's just a matter of planning and wrenching. I just need to find a stable workplace where I can level the bike and lock the rear wheel (2 ratchet straps on a wheel spoke, zip tie on the rear brake, locked in gear and maybe a 2x4 in the swingarm). It sounds like a disaster waiting to happen.

At least you know you put enough on. Just carry a rag & wD40 around with you when you ride it.

*#$%!.....you guys, if I am not confused and stressed enough.... saw that so I redid all my calculations... 8 kg-m = 78 NM = 58 Lb-ft.. then I reread that you did the same. and with my Harbor Freight torque wrench if it's within 5 lb I'll be surprised. Probably just keep it on 60. And for the side stand too. You should see me use a vacuum cleaner tube as a cheater bar. Until I can get use of bike stand, I am saved from myself. I need to call Mr Nevada now.

got my spring today. Looking at it, am I right to say that the diameter of the wire is smaller but it has an extra loop in the spring?

Thanks very much KGLM 8 k-gm= 58 lb-ft

Thanks Scud, I got the the torque specs on my PDF copy of the shop manual. I couldn't find it for the 10mm allenhead but I did for the alternator nut (80 nm = 60 lbft). I forgot about the side stand. For sure I'll need to put it on a shop stand now. thanks

Perhaps you guys can provide a bit of advice for the removal of the timing cover? 1. I checked the manual but could not find a torque value for the 10mm allen head that attaches to the timing cover to the frame. 2. Do I need to support the engine from the bottom when I remove the 10mm allen heads that attach the timing cover to the frame? 3. There plugs at the bottom of the of the timing cover similar to the 10mm allenheads at the top. Are there fasteners under the plugs or are they only cosmetic since there are no bottom frame rails? 4. The big nut on the alternator is torqued at 60 lb-ft (80 NM)? sorry to be a whiney ass on this but I've researched this and had a few questions. I have a buddy with shop table and I need to be prepared on how to get the job completed before I approach him.

Thanks Andy, For now, I'll live with it. Probably the reason that Guzzi decided to paint the engines black.

Thanks Scud. Thanks for everyone's help. For now I'll live with it. The leak appears to originate from the allenhead that was loose. After I rode it was still snug but unfortunately, leaking. It's the one that's at 10 o'clock (top one in the photo).

thanks Scud. For sure if it's upper sump, I'll get after it.

ooh boy. Thanks Scud. I am not going to attempt it. Sounds like frustration and two days of lying on the cold garage floor. And an unknown for my ability to complete it and the outcome for success. At worst I can live with it. I did a clean up and took Docc's advice and checked the allen heads on the timing cover. One was a little loose. I'll respray it with powder along all the seams and give it a ride.

Are you saying your Roper plate has only 1 gasket fitted? Ciao The PO installed the plate. I've never taken it off. I did check that the fasteners were tight when I serviced the bike a few weeks ago. I was just confused why it would need two gaskets if I were to service it. BTw, if I take the timing cover off, do I have to remove the rotor on the alternator?