LowRyter

I have the $5 Harbor Freight trickle chargers. We had some very cold days in the winter. And I've has fewer days to ride. So keeping the batteries charged was totally necessary. The cars I keep outside were not so lucky, Two weak batteries on the Duramax, too weak to jump, and my Trooper was totally dead and had to be replaced.

thanks Docc. I never thought about sandwich-ing the Roper plate.

It did appear to me when I was riding today that light ghosted much less. In fact it went out about 2k, The previous day I had a trickle charger attached it but didn't reattach it before my ride today.

Docc, 1) there are two upper gaskets not just one? 2) I have a breather hose. When I serviced the air filter and replaced the fuel hose, I inspected the breather hose and frame which were clean. It looked like a job more than I wanted to do and saw no benefit. This task alone took me more than 4 Dead records (that tank removal and fuel tap leaks!) 3. I can change the oil again and the gasket and the filter. But I have only 400 miles on it. I did inspect the sloppage plate and all the fasteners were tight. I have a feeling that timing cover won't be much fun. 4. What is the harm of using stop leak? It may not be what a mechanic would do but, I am not a mechanic. Yes, I am a little concerned taking something apart that I am not comfortable with. (I am leaning toward stop leak and more talcum powder.) As always, thanks for the advice.

I got to ride 40 miles today and have oil drips. It's still hard for me figure. I am guessing that it's both the upper pan gasket and the timing cover. There's certainly a sheen around those area, although I sprayed the powder on the front to the engine not all over the side. the cooling fins over the right from corner are wet there's a sheen running across the upper sump plate gasket. and another sheen down the front cover seam. a drop collected in the center next to the fastener relief on the right side of the seam (hard to see here) I am still uncertain. I might try some stop leak and see how it works out.

done. sent PM

I just caught that "high state of charge". I've kept the Greenie battery on a trickle charger all winter. I should've done it on my Trooper and Duramax since there were outside. One new battery and two complete recharges on those. It got real cold here man. A nice 75 today.

I've noticed mine ghosts a little bit, perhap since I installed the LED headlight bulb or because of the reverse-placebo-effect of this thread. I installed the LED because I wanted to take stress of the charging system and getting brighter light.

I believe the transmission recall that Docc mentions is different than the need for the bracket.

The redframe bikes need a transmission bracket to attach the trans to the frame to prevent the transmission case from cracking. I'd get it done before the transmission develops a crack. You can look up my story about it here. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=19814&hl=transmission Contact my mechanic in Okla City; he's fabricated a kit with the bracket & fasteners. Or you might be able to find the original but difficult to find Guzzi part. http://www.motivcycleworks.com It's possible the tach has failed because the counterweight has detached. If you hear it rattle, that is likely the case. You would have to remove the bezel and epoxy the weight back on. If you want to get it repaired Joel Levine has serviced the speedo on my Greenie. https://joellevinecompany.com/Speedo-Tach-Repair If you had Rosso Corsa, you're probably familiar with anything else about the bike.

thanks Phil. The rain came in today and cut my ride short. I'll just have to keep riding it until the oil remerges.

After a 10 miles ride it's all clear on the front of the engine. I'll just keep riding it. The talcum powder seems to do a nice job cleaning the engine.

I checked the sloppage plate when I dropped the pan. All of the fasteners were tight. Since it hasn't been touched since I purchased the bike 30k miles ago, I would be surprised if the upper gasket was leaking but OTOH, it's misting somewhere. BTW, are the oil lines supposed to be frozen to the point that I can't wrench them off? Yeah, I'll try talcum powder. thanks guys

perhaps it's the upper sump. i've got the slopage plate and I've never taken it off. I always take the front cover off to set the valves, wouldn't that be wet if it was the front seal or the timing set? Regarding the oil lines, I've never been able to get them to budge even when dropping the pan to change the filter. They're really solid.

Thanks Docc, You too Marty

'01 V11 Sport has been spraying quite a bit of oil from the front of the engine for the last few months. I recently serviced the bike and replaced the pan gasket but it didn't fix the problem. The oil lines seen solid, I can't even move the attaching nuts with a wrench. It doesn't drip, it only gets misty dirty when I ride it. I am hoping it's not another issue like the gearbox. At the same time, other than the aesthetics of it, it's no problem regarding oil consumption. So is there any consensus or BTDT? Appreciate your help. This 100 miles or so.

350 miles of dirt? That's manly.

Interesting Tim. I'm aware of Strategic and Tactical leaders but I hadn't thought about Networking leadership. Intuitively, it's quite obvious but I've not seen it articulated before.

I remember seeing the crash on the news when I was a kid. I also remember seeing Breedlove's Sonic 1 displayed at one of the local Goodyear stores.

I'd consider getting a red frame transmission brace so long as you are replacing the tranny.

I want to pass on that Don Moomaw at Motiv Cycleworks is moving his shop to 906 N. Ann Arbor Ave, Oklahoma City, OK and will open a new franchise for Moto Guzzi, Aprilia and Vespa. Ann Arbor is midway between Macarthur and Meridian.

GMC28 My Suzuki Bandit eats clutches. Using Rotella was the death knell for clutch #2. I've never used it since in anything but my Duramax. Funny, I used it in the Bandit because I read the positives on Max Suzuki board. Then I read -never to use it- on the same board but it was too late. Looking back, I am not certain Rotella killed that clutch but I don't walk under that ladder again.

There's a little bit of trick with that API chart. Many of the new weights are only available in SL and/or Fully Synth. Now if you run a Model A Ford that uses straight 20 WT, you won't find an SL oil. You might not even find straight 20 at all and will have to go with 10w30 which you can probably get in SL grade full synth. I know I got a coupon for a cheap oil change on my '14 Accord from the dealer. I went over there and they said they couldn't honor the coupon because the coupon was for conventional oil. I said fine, I'll take conventional. Well they don't make conventional oil in the weight (0w-20) that goes in my car, despite the weasel words in the owner's manual (probably written by lawyers ). I did check and you can get 20W50 in SL grade.