v11brad

Thanks Luhbo,Pasotibds for directing me to Pete Roper's dettailed examination of the rear drive. I don't see how any home mechanic could solve this models foilbels without this forum.

Can someone tell me how to adjust the pinion gear retaining nut in the bevel drive? also do I need special MG tools? And how much torque should be applied? Guzziolgy explains titening may be enough to bring end play back into tolearance. I don't see the special holding tool listed online.

odd how speedo preformance can very between models,my 98 ev11 never had a single defect in 68,000 veglia miles (sold) and i only lubed it ocasionaly, like to examine it for a difference for what made it so relible. Only difference comes to mind is the LM fairing that does interfere in right hand full lock steering.

Kheedrager From what I've read your speedo is good, as long as the cable is spining free and true it doesn't induce a wobble into the connection end into the speedo,I believe the final short curved section of flexible cable combinend with whatever clearance between the cable and the shielding is enough to induce a wobble in the cable to speedo connection, resulting in the eratic needle.Your graphite filled that void temporaily dampening out any wobble.

Particle size is like looking at a mettalic paint surface, larger than makeup powder,smaller than metalflake paint,volume is enough to be concerned,not enough to panic. Oil level was max, measured with cycle plumb,during aceraration tests.Flushed oil radiator and found enough specks to wonder how they got past the oil filter.I'm still reluctant to remove a big end cap due to the required replacement of expensive con rod bolts,which I don't see listed on line, also looks like a pretty involved job, might be opening a can of worms. I'd like to satisfy our querosity of how the bearing look,it does't answer the cause or the source. I am considering removing crank front bearing cap Instead? update; I just watched You Tube regarding Fram oil filters it showed a hole in a new filter,that explains debri geting past filter.

Removed sump today to have a look, laying on the ground couldn't see crank looks like I'll need a bike lift? cleaned it up, put it back together. I'll monitor the oil for contaminats before going futher.

I took it out for a ride to see if the oil lite would come on under full aceralation 1st gear, no lite, that should elimanate that cause in my case.I'll reserve removeing bearing caps as a last measure, I don't want to disturb bearing alignments the slightist bit. So far my conclusion is debri setles in the sump before filtration and draining, if that's so what I saw is the accumalation of 19,000 miles, this being my first sump removal. My 1998 EV11 had the oil filter mounted inverted in the sump possibly resulting in self priming after oil changes.

Low ryter this responce may to late to help you but I succeded in fixing my jumpy speedo. My cable finaly broke near the top,I bought a new cable assembly from mg cycle but it had to small a fastner on one end so I used the inner cable, which was the wrong length.That was fixed by cutting both ends down and cutting the brass swedged fitting to half its length then reinforcing with solder.Also put a tube splint around the outter sheath to straighten a 10 degree kink right at the speedo end. Speedo is steady through the entire range now, I only hope now is it holds up, good luck. Reply; It sounds like yours is worse than mine, mine jumped below 25 mph.straightening the kink seemed to cure mine. Somewhere in Guzziology Dave richordson states the difficulty of obtaining correct cables. My replacement came in a bag marked Stucchi Luigi from Mandello del Lario.I was suspicious something was wrong with a price of $17.60 when the other types are priced far higher.Harpers offers inner cables for only $12 which will be my next choice untill the correct part is offered.

Shortly after changing oil & filter my 02 LM developed a small oil leak near bottom rear of motor so I removed the lower sump to check fastners were tite inside, but was alarmed to find tiny metallic bits at the bottom of the pan.I've always changed my own oil in my various vechicles and usually found small amounts of metallics, this time the oil was cleaner and I saw many bits. I'm asumeing it's plain bearing Material due to the drain magnet being clean.By not refilling a new oil filter can their be enough oil starvation to wear the plain bearing enough to see as metalic bits?

my vent line is missing also,could that cause a positive pressure in the bypass hose exiting the top rear of the crankcase contributing to oil running out the bottom of my bell housing as explained by Guzzi Moto in the "v11 gearbox leak" thread ? update; forgive me I've mistaken the rain water drains on the intake snorkles for the blowby connection, that is connected correctly.I'm searching for a simple solution to my bell housing oil leak.I hope I've found it by simpley titening the hose clamp on the blowby hose above the flywheel.What an odd location to route a leak prone oil hose, I miss took it to be a blown shaft seal.

Cutting the slot deeper will be the next fix,what does 12.9 refer to?

I wasn't aware of the indented shaft that's what limited the movement to 1/4 inch with pinch screws installed,i'll further titen screws and watch for movement,thanks for the tip kiwi roy.

Took swing arm off for the first time with 19000 miles and found the universal joint spline clamps weren't pinching the spline connections at both the bevel box and transmission connections, allowing aprox. 1/4 inch of forward, back movement,and the pinch screws are tite.Is this normal?

after reinstalling oil line conections at sump both leaked at less than the max torc of 22lbs as advised in guzziology,after fully heated engine run.I'm concerned these conections will fail in time. I don't have a shop manuel, does it require replacing o-rings and compression fittings (oil lines)?