CzDavec

Selling my V11 Sport, Bike has the usual V11 issues. Speedometer is broken, bike has approximately 12,000 miles on it. Fuel injection was tuned by Todd at Guzzitech. Put in a bypass pushbutton switch for the starter. Easily removed, no stock wiring has been cut /altered etc. It has almost new Bridgestone BT023 Sport Touring tires (less than 500 miles on them ) Has a flyscreen on it too. Bike starts easily and runs good . Has current Ca. registration and clean title. Comes with extra oil filters , Valve cover and oil pan gaskets, new rubber mounts for the instrument cluster, etc. Needs a good home with someone who can enjoy it , spends to much time just sitting in the garage. Asking 4000.00 OBO . Buyer is responsible for pickup/shipping Cash in fist only or bike will be held and not released until funds clear . A non refundable deposit of 500.00 will be required if you want me to hold it for you. Please feel free to contact me with any questions. CzDaveC Please contact me for pictures as they are to large to upload here. I will try to get them resized and posted. (its the bike in my profile picture)

how does the ECU map go off? I thought once you have the right flah, you're good to go. The map didn't "go off" it was probably never right for my bike from the factory. Which would account for the really low miles on the bike , it probably never ran good from new and whoever bought just let it sit . Check out my reply to The Bronze , it might clear up what I meant by that.

Dave, thanks for letting us know. I have the exact same problem so I guess I need that same fix. I've been emailing Todd for a couple weeks now to get the ball rolling. All bikes are different.No two are/run exactly the same. The 15m ecu isn't an adaptive computer like the ones in the newer cars,it doesn't learn and adjust itself.It is basically an electronic version of jets in a carb. It can only run what has been programed into it.The problem lies in the fact that unlike a carb where you can change the jets to correct poor running, with the 15m ,you can't change it without having the software and hardware needed to work on it. So back to no two bikes being alike. I have ridden and been racing motorcycles since the early 70's. I also restore and race vintage race bikes. I have built two identical machines,side by side,with the same parts etc. One runs a 450 main jet,with a 42 pilot,and a 6df6 needle, the other bike runs a 420 main,38 pilot and a 6dj6 needle, for top performance. Both will run with the other's carb but neither will perform at its best. Its the same with our Guzzi's, most fall into the "normal" range and the factory tuning works. However when you get one that falls on the far ends of the "normal" range,running issues crop up. Thats where the re tuning comes into play. To give you the best performance from your particular bike.My bike was on the far end of the "normal" range and so would only run right under certain conditions.

Just wanted to wrap up this thread. Finally gave up and took the bike to Todd @ Guzzitech.The ecu map was way off, both in timing and fueling. After Todd reflashed the ecu , the bike now runs great. No more popping and missing,will roll through town at around 2500rpm without acting up and doesn't quit at idle. Also the mid range torque and throttle response are greatly improved. I gave it a 300 mile run out here up through the mountains,out through the desert and back home via route 66 and it ran great. The bike is now a joy to ride. Thanks to all of you who took the time to help me out with this. Dave

Well. interesting ride home yesterday. I pulled the cyl. head temp sensor and ziptied it away from the engine . Bike ran fine on the way home. I ran some backroads, a 5 mile blast on the freeway ,then onto some surface streets with redlights and traffic. No popping and spitting,no loss of power and it remained idleing. So, I am going to Ohm out the sensor this morning and again before I head home tonight and note the readings. I will also do a plug check although the bike doesn't appear to be running to rich.If it stays running good, I will take it for a longer ride up into the mntn's and see what happens. If the sensor is working correctly,would it be safe to assume that the problem lies with the fuel map in the ECU? I don't like running it with the sensor removed as it would be treating the symptom and not the cause.

Thanks, If I can't get her sorted, I will be up to trying that. It would definately let me know if the ECU is faulty or not.

I'll give Mark a call this week and see what his take on it is.I havn,t been to MGC. I usually use Cycle Garden and get parts from MG Cycle as I generally ride vintage bikes. I am curious to see what happen's this afternoon when I ride it home with the temp sensor isolated from the engine heat. I have checked the fuel line routing and it doesn't appear to be too close to the heads and cyl's to cause a problem from heat soak.Ahh, the joys of owning exotics and the length's we go to indulge our passions!

I can definately use the moral support! This is very frustrating to say the least.As an old wrench turner ,if she had carbs and a std ignition = easy fix. But , learning the fuel injection is fun too. I just hope that the new ECU the dealer had installed before I purchased the bike is not bad, and causing this problem. We will see how she runs today with the temp sensors isolated.

Thats what I am thinking, get it running decently 1st before doing wholesale changes to the ecu. I can,t believe they all run like this from the factory.At least I hope not. I have sent a message to GuzziTech to see what their take on it is,as I am sure they have seen a lot of these. I am going to try isolating the temp sensors from the engine to see if it stays running good when it warms up. I will also ck the routing of the fuel lines as well.I am also considering the Harley sensors and tps too. I would truly like to figure out what causes this issue. I still feel its something failing as when I bought the bike I rode it home over 85 miles and even with s stint of idling on the freeway due to an accident the bike ran fine. It wasn't until 2 days later this issue started on my way to Hwy 2 in the mountains.I will tackle it again on Monday.

Thanks for all the input guys. I'm not giving up yet. Does any one have the part no's for the harley parts that interchange? If the my ecu fixes the problem it would be worth it as the bike is damn nice and when its running right its a blast to ride. I will try the TPS trick.

Sp isn't a Lemans but is a great ride. I agree with the fairing working great. The bike is really comfortable. I rode over 2000 miles in Utah on mine plus the ride from Socal and back again. The SP has quickly become my daily rider and the 1st choice to wheel out of the garage. Dave

I agree that the stock fuel map is lean. Most of the bikes are, from them trying to get them through our lovely EPA. Then you add in hot days and the problem compounds itself.Not to mention Ca's crappy oxygenated gas. If it comes down to that, does anyone know a reputable shop out here in Southern Ca. That could dyno tune the bike and map it correctly ?

Again this morning. Starts up and runs perfect. "At least as perfect as I expect" Air temp out is around 20 C or around 70 F. Get to work let the bike sit for a bit and rechecked the Ohms on the Intake air Temp sensor and it reads 1954 Ohms. and acording to the charts I have it should be reading around 3700 Ohms. So I am thinking the IAT sensor is faulty. Or am I missing something obvious. I really want to get her running like she does in the morning all the time. Dave

Still working on it. But some new observations. Been riding it to work everyday and checking things. The bike runs excellent in the early morning going to work.5a.m. Idles nice, runs excellent. On the way home in the afternoon as it gets hot it starts acting up again. Yesterday out here was about 100 degrees and pretty humid and she acted up again. Seems to be temp related. This bike has the in tank fuel pump not the external so it shouldn't be getting hot. I ohmed out the Intake air temp sensor and accoerding to the charts @38 Celsius or around 98 degrees it should have been reading around 1600 Ohms and instead was @ 1224 Ohms. Does this seem to be too far out of range for the sensor? As for the gas I run either Chevron premium or Union 76 and have run about 3 tanks through the bike so far.