Gritman

Go for it! Makes the workshop a happier place😊

We gotta keep up with the tech @docc!

O, and of course used a broadband extender to get a decent connection to the domestic network….

Hi @docc are you familiar with Roon? I used a raspberry pi with a hifiberry DAC onto an old NAD 306 & Bose accoustimass5’s. Brilliant, and most importantly, cheap!

Interesting🧐 came across this photo of the Esteemed @Admin Jaap's GB Sport Monza, a V10 (1225?) with a deep vee sump and no cooler…..

Franz Schubert Piano sonata #20 accompanied a recent gearbox rebuild, along with some Primal Scream, Stones and various early R&B masterpieces😊 Sadly Franz predated YouTube by a while….. the very best upgrade last autumn was extending Roon to the workshop!

Thanks for all the input/support/kind comments chaps😊 The gearbox is now reassembled and ready to reunite with the engine - when I return from my winter hols ☀️. Need them solar rays! Its been a learning experience and I’m a little disappointed that the backlash issue seems to be a ‘box feature. I’ll have to pay extra attention to matching road and engine speed…

Probably best to replace the cooler, though I’m not convinced it’s essential. On my 1225 V10, I made the decision to delete the cooler to save weight, and fitted a deep V sump with external filter. A bit of a gamble but I could always revert if proved wrong…. I don’t intend to mix it in heavy traffic either. Initially, I was a bit concerned as oil temp crept up quickly to over 100 in suburban use. However, I found it was running lean and with a better map it copes quite happily in suburban use and settles to about 85 on the open road. Goes better too🤗

Hi @docc going back to your frame enquiry, it is a Centauro frame but it’s had the ‘Raceco chop’ which reduces the rake by 1.5 degrees. I can’t measure the wheelbase atm as the engine is out! I wanted something a bit more nimble than the usual spine frame, hence the chop and Dymags. The handling is certainly lighter and turn-in is sharper, so some satisfaction that time and money was well-spent 😊

Thanks for your input, I don’t think it’s one of them🤞it is a Guzzi Daytona item with new rose joints, but thank you anyway. ….and Kevin, the transmission is stock - except for the torque rod. It looks a bit different as the swingarm is nickel plated. Maybe it’s that?

Hey Doc, thanks for your comments😊 it’s a tarted-up Centy…. 1225 conversion, Dymags, Ohlins, full Motogadget, lithium battery and other weight saving mods. Weighs in at 187kg. It’s been a labour of love, but I’ve finally got the Guzzi I wanted - apart from the tranny lash of course😬

Well, reducing photo size is nearly as much fun as rebuilding gearboxes😂 Heres my baby, hope image quality hasn’t suffered too much!

Thanks Pete, I think it’s time to stop navel gazing and reassemble the gearbox….. liked your description of the dogs knocking the bejasus out of themselves! Hope the replacements are up to the job 🤞

Hi Marty, just gotta get some photos off my phone so I can edit them down to the acceptable size….. Pete, thanks for your interest. The driveshaft assembled/aligned correctly. The bike did about 1300m running in and the gearbox backlash was the only issue that arose. I do run anther bike using the V11 box/transmission on stock items that does not display the symptoms. I think that perhaps the relatively unforgiving cush drive in the Dymag, combined with replacing the stock metalastic bushed torque reaction bar with a rose-jointed item has magnified the issue somewhat…. Maybe it’s just something I need to get used to!

Thanks for that Marty…. I’d not seen that thread. Pete Roper’s contribution seems to support my theory that it’s all down to the selector dogs. TBH, it’s already for reassembly and I’m just holding out on gasketting and torquing up the shaft nuts in case there is a magic fix somewhere!

It’s a six-speeder, probably pre 2002……

Hi folks, Its been a while, but I need your collective knowledge on a gearbox issue causing me a lot of brain strain. Finished a project bike last summer and ran it in a treat - apart from a clunk in the transmission when rolling throttle on/off. Made note to self to investigate/correct over winter. First checked bevel box and shaft, all ok so gearbox it is. With the box on the bench it becomes apparent that the selector dogs are the cause and as such, no adjustment is available. Im getting in excess of 30 degrees of lash between input and output shafts………. This can’t be right, surely. I have changed the dogs as per Recall notice to no effect. Can anyone confirm that this is normal/acceptable, and if not, how can I reduce this, given the free play between the dogs and its gear are fixed, and each dog acts on one gear at a time? Thanks, Chris

Hmmmm. Yes, I've had this one too.....seems to be a feature The 30A fuse from the alternator kept melting its insulation, but never blew. Looking at the loom, the 2 outputs from the VR join to a single wire going to the fusebox. Being the anxious sort and fearing fire, I decided to bypass the fuse box and and give each output from the VR its own in-line 30A fuse then connected both to a chunky brass eye terminal direct to the battery. No problems with overheating fuses in the 2000m since, and I'm running heated gloves (though spring keeps teasing me).

Haha Scud! well what is a boy to do while waiting for the new bevel box to arrive? I came across it while looking for a cheap and lazy way to build a new advance curve for my v10/15m combo.... I was looking at knock sensors but can't afford one after the recent mechanical expenditure. I do have the xdf/bin files for both Centauro and Daytona which I hope will be pretty close to correct, then its just advance it until no improvement and back it off a couple of degrees.The v11 ignition map is (unsurprisingly) quite different across the rev range compared to the v10, so it seems that should be the first table to amend before attempting the fuel mapping. I've also wired in the AFR meter so I'm ready to go when the 'box arrives. This Guzzidiag business is just a time vampire, but perhaps I'll get some time to join another hosting service so I can post lovely photos again. I'm watching doccs progress with interest....

Just came across this rather good tutorial on tunerpro, courtesy of wildguzzi..... starts off with a Griso (5AM) but continues to 15M as fitted to the V11. http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=73938.0 may be useful...... apologies if its been tagged before!

Let me start with yesterday, its happier :-) ...... Yesterday I reinstalled my stucchi (or is it stucci?) x-over after getting a couple of lambda sensor bungs welded on.. While that was being done, it was oil/filter change, sort out a couple of minor oils seeps - one of which ended up being a thread repair to the spacer between sump and crankcase, sigh - and prepare the wiring to receive my new air/fuel ratio meter. Finished mid evening so it was a quick shakedown ride then beer time for the remainder of the day with a reverie of a perfectly fuelled monster filling my thoughts. Or so I thought.... Hit the end of the beach road to a set of red lights, still rolling when I got there so back up to third and turn on the gas. No action...... false neutral methinks, so back into second and clutch out again.... still nothing. Flailed around a bit searching for any cog at all then slumped to the roadside to have a look. When I pulled up and got off, there was no neutral light, and with the engine running the shaft was spinning!! So thats a transmission failure then. The shaft was mobile on entry to the bevel box so game over. Still needed that beer though..... So to get back on topic, what I did to mine today was to inspect transmission (symptoms confirmed; shaft spins, wheel don't), remove the bevel box and strip it. Now I'm a novice at the mysteries of bevel boxes. In 15 odd years of guzziriding, I've never one break on me. So my diagnoses should be taken with the proverbial pinch of snuff, but the only engineering issue I found was play in the needle bearing at the end of the input shaft/ pinion shaft. When the shaft was removed from the housing, there was a pitted scuffed area for half the width of the needle bearing, 7mm in from the end. What seems to have happened is that failure of the needle bearing permitted enough movement in the shaft for the crown and pinion to disengage. So guys, it may be academic as I'm now trying to source a suitable used replacement to reduce loss of summer riding, but such a sudden failure with no great gnashings of teeth or other nasty noises to announce its arrival seems very odd. I really would have expected a bit more notice..... Anyone got any opinions? I did upload some photos to botofucket, but it won' t let me copy the addresses to upload them here, so there we are. Everythings feckin broken, but I do have some more beer :-)

Haha- Scud - Snap! If thats not too cheesy! I got stuck in 4th 15 miles out from home, testing a new fuelling map! Got home ok, and reinstalled the old spring I replaced in a fit of preventive maintenance last winter. Damn spring only did 1200 miles

not quite today but..... Took her in for the annual MoT sunny day expecting fun all afternoon, but got a puncture on the way..... bike now at the MoT station minus back wheel, wheel at the tyre shop awaiting fresh rubber. Sun shining and I'm doing the gardening. Not quite as I'd planned

Just had a lovely ride out with my new custom map and cured the 2k misfire - by guesswork rather than science it must be said..... However I seem to be getting somewhere. Bearing in mind the 'old' map ran a v11 motor, so it was at best an approximation of the fuelling needs of the v10, but it worked - with issues around town. So I looked at the maps and took my prompt from the maps for each cylinder with acceleration enrichment as well as the base maps, which showed considerable differences between the cylinders at the suspect rev range. Taking a wild guess that the misfire was due to lack of fuel I enriched the lh cylinder to bring it a bit closer to the rh, blending the numbers to avoid big steps, and it worked. tickover dropped a bit causing the odd stall at lights, but I'm sure I can fix that Now I'm fired up to splash the cash on an AFR meter to reduce guesswork and increase science! From the Shoulders of giants chaps, thanks for your advice and encouragement! Ciao