mjseymo

This is all really useful stuff, the ride height and the effects of different shock lengths to rider experience. Also peopel oftne drop the front forks in the triple clamps by 2 - 3mm to sharpen up the steering. I wonder how the combination of the two work together to get a happy set up?

Hi All, very useful info. I have a short frame and want to change the Sachs unit. Will the extra 5mm change the seat height too? I'm short in the leg and just wanted to check. Thanks.

If you load the map from Meinolf then no power commander needed and no low rev cough either! He's a member on here. 🙂

Hi All, Have been trawling through some of the posts on the forum and come accross several suggestions but what are people's favroutite choice on the earlier red frame models? I know that the suspension tweaks suggested and lowering the forks can improve matters but what would you go for with regards to tyres? Also do lots of people go for the 170 on the rear? TIA Martin

No! Replace at all costs. Had this happen my v11. Grease the new pivot bolt well.

240 of them at present. Just bought some myself

Interesting and similar discussion on the H4 LED - other lighting thread. After 12 pages or so Docc's conclusions were - So . . from what I have learned so far: 1) Replacement/ "upgrade" LED units do not compliment the existing reflector to project a reliable beam pattern. This is across the board and not just this one unit. The LED unit I referenced has a better lo-beam pattern, but sketchy hi-beam pattern. 2) The higher Kelvin "color" of ~5000K ( "whiter/bluer" than the more yellow halogen ~ 4300K), does not reflect the road surface and features back as well. 5000K reflects the road signage and reflective road markings spectacularly. Yet, riders, and drivers, are also reporting unwanted "glare" in rain, fog, or snow with the common 5000K LED. 3) Heat generation is problematic. Not just for the LED, but also normal halogen bulbs. And, especially, increased wattage halogen H4. My connector had melted using a normal H4 (riding most of the time on Hi). I have had various other damage experiences with hi-wattage H4 bulbs. 4) I am *feeling* more confident with a common Wagner H4 in the Sport for my upcoming ride that could catch us out after dark. My preliminary conclusion on improving the V11 for better night riding? There is no cheap solution. Early V11 steel buckets/reflectors (Bosch) are probably better than later plastic buckets/reflectors. It seems that the ture benefit will only be gained with a preperly desinged LED headlight where all the components are desinged to work together albeit at a much higher initial cost. Continuing thoughts welcome....

Any replacment bulb is only going to perform as well as the reflector's quality and ability. I would be interested to see if there was a comparison of such LED bulbs with those of a specific LED headlight such as the JW Speaker unit? Anyone out there able to put a bike side by side? The cost of an LED bulb with OEM reflector is quite a lot less than a specific LED headlight afterr all.

Would you be prepared to post them to the UK?

Went out to the Bucks branch MG club meet which is about 50 minutes riding time each way on a variety of roads from fast duel carriageway to a lot of country lanes and it didn't cough once. Still can't quote believe it. That's the first time in 5 years!

Well everyone success, although I haven't been out on a ride yet. New plugs. Took the fuel pressure regulator out and clenaed it with a bit of petrol and an airline.There was a bit of dirt in there but nothing excesive. Realised that previoiusly I hadn't compeltely realeased the rough idle cam on the right hand side and managed to get a quality 2.5mm hex socket to back off competely the screw. With the linkage disconnected the TPS was reading 11mv, With that corrected and the other bits done too you can imagine whtat a differecne it made. With the LH 2.5mm hex wound in a little bit it will idle evenly at 1100 - 1200 rpm even with the Meinolf map and the pressure regulator is working properly too. Now to sort out the broken heat sensor on the municipal police 750 breva (compelte with extendabel rear light and sirens. (having talked to Piaggio these were meant to be removed by the de-comissioners before allowing into public service, lucky me)

Thanks for all your replies. I'll be getting back into the garage middle of next week. The fuel regulator is no longer avaialble through Guzzi but I'll take it out and blow it out with an airline first just in case any muck has got in there. Stein Dinse show it as still be available as a Ducati item so I guess this Weber item must be standard on several injection systems. I don't suppose anyone has got a Weber part number? The TPS setting has been done with the linkage disconnected. I tried to back out the 2.5mm stop screw but i'ts so rarely used and difficult to get to I'm not sure whether it turned or I just rounded the allen key hole. Will check to see what the mv is again and with new plugs we'll see what happens, I'll let you know!

Dear All, Being following the bad cough thread with interest. My situation 2001 V11. Valves set at 25mm, CO trim 0, new intake rubbers, air bleed screws and airways cleaned. Balanced with a Twinmax Idle very nicely but still coughing from just off idle to 2000rpm Tried setting the TPS to 157mv but it didn't particularly like it far happier at around 250 - 290mv. Tried putting the CO trim to +10 which helped marginally. Yesterdfay loaded thye BIN file Meinolf sent me some time ago and it improved the running greatly although it then didn't like to idle much now but the pickup through the rev range was a lot lot better and a lot less coughing around 2000rpm. So today I decided to check all the settings as per Meinolf instructed to see if it would make the bit of fine tuning for the idle. RH intlet tappet was more like 20mm than 25 but all the rest were 25mm. CO trim was still + 10 but Guzzidiag would only let put it down as low as +4. The idle was still very erratic and lumpy. The instructions from Meinolf are that the bleed screws should be all the way in. At this setting it wouldn't really tick over at all or at best 900rpm. Turning the 2.5mm cam allen key helped but too much and there would be a wait for the revs to drop once the throlle was let to close at the twistgrip/ With the TPS set to 157 not much change and it ran better with it somewhere nearer 265 - 290. Towards the end of today it's refusing to start at all. It seems like fuel starvation as you can crank it over for longer than I would like and it's trying to fire and sometimes it will and if you can keep the revs up it'll run for a short time before dying. The click from the fuel pump relay is clear but there is a continuous burbling sound of fuel seemingly going back into the tank. Could this be a faulty external fuel pump causing problems linked to this and all of the above? or is it a dody TPS potentially? Your help and advice is much appreciated as I'm really beginning to lose faith I'll ever get a V11 to run right! Thanks, Martin

Can I get a couple of these springs, I'm in the UK? Cheers Martin

Can you put me down on the list for one too£ when are they next available I'm in the UK. Thanks Martin

I'm having similar difficulties. Although mine idles well at 2000rpm it does cough badly almost pushing the intake rubbers off (which are pretty new). I know a lot of the time tight valves don't help. With the valves set at 25mm (cold obviously) do you not find that even when the engine is up to tempreature there is a lot valve train noise, is this ok? - M

Going to replace the outer one to begin with. Who would you recommend as the best quality bearing manufacturer?

Good thought but 31 and 33 are definitely present I'm afraid!

Thanks for the replies there's useful links there. I'm presuming (which I guess is dangeours) that it's the outer needle roller near the swingarm. Here's a dropbox link to a 10 sec vdeo https://www.dropbox.com/s/kh8cyjh34j0su7i/Bevel%20box%20play%20.mp4?dl=0 The bike when I got was in a poor state so the wheel bearings, spacer, axle have all been replaced along with the the bevel box inner and outer race of that same bearing (which were very rusty) once already along with a seal etc. This was done by an exceelant guuzi mechanic who unfortunatleyi for me is now living and working in Italy. I may end up having to give it to a someone who really knows about the intacaices of this weird science of bevel boxes......

Dear All, I've got a first series V11 and there is a bit of play in the needle roller bearing in the bevel box. How easy is it to replace this? Can anyone give me some directions just in case there's something in paricular I should know? Thanks in advance, Martin

Any further news having been folowoing the thread for some time with interest?

Hi I'm in Reading UK. What colour is the bike may be interested in several bits including front end. All best Martin

Dear All, I'm enjoying riding my 2001 V11 after various bits have been rebuilt but I do find the seat uncomfortable for medium to long distances. Has anyone had any success in modifying or having an alternative made that makes it slightly more berable? All best, Martin

I'm a beginer too and used the guzzidiag program and cables for the first time yesterday and I had the same rather intermittent experience. I ended up closing the prgoram or disconecting or restarting the surface tablet and in the end it connected ok and I managed to change the CO trim. It tool a couple of attempts and the program stopped working a couple of times too but I'm sure it's a good bit of kit once you get it to talk to the bike. Cheers Martin